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Homeroasters - Home Roasting Coffee Community » BUILDING A ROASTER » Fluidbed Roaster

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Very noob questions...
carelgrundlingh	#1 Posted on 12/28/2013 3:19 AM
Newbie Posts: 15 Joined: December 25, 2013	Instead of posting different questions on different threads I'd just ask all my noob (read: stupid) questions on one thread: So here goes (form less to more stupid): 1. For a fluidbed roaster how many cfm per weight of beans is required? (this one sound quite smart) Thanks in advance! Edited by ginny on 12/28/2013 9:13 AM


tamarian	#2 Posted on 12/28/2013 6:34 AM
1/2 Pounder Posts: 320 Joined: January 21, 2012	Check the download section for a nice spreadsheet by Dan. To summarize, it's roughly 15-20CFM per pound, can be more or less depending on the perforation. Wa'il. 1 Kg PID'ed gas-fired fluid bed roaster, GS/3MPS, K10F
	Web

carelgrundlingh	#3 Posted on 12/28/2013 8:17 AM
Newbie Posts: 15 Joined: December 25, 2013	Thank you Tamarian for the prompt reply!! 2nd Question....this is the stupid one, and even dangerous some might say ;) I am using a heatgun coil element in my fluidbed roaster. How do I connect the element? Do I just hook it up to Live and Neutral, similar to my Poppery 1, or do I need a circuit board with bells and whistles? (I have a reostat that I'm gonna use to regulate the heat).


tamarian	#4 Posted on 12/28/2013 9:02 AM
1/2 Pounder Posts: 320 Joined: January 21, 2012	No need for any electronics, if it's just a coil element. But you might want to use a dimmer or triac with adequate (1.5 or 2x the wattage of the element) wattage for that element, so it won't be at 100% all the time. Wa'il. 1 Kg PID'ed gas-fired fluid bed roaster, GS/3MPS, K10F
	Web

carelgrundlingh	#5 Posted on 12/28/2013 9:04 AM
Newbie Posts: 15 Joined: December 25, 2013	Tamarian, once again, prompt reply, thank you!! I am planning on using a stove reostat type regulator to regulate the heat. was just pondering how to connect it from there. Thank you


oldgearhead	#6 Posted on 12/28/2013 3:46 PM
1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1128 Joined: February 10, 2011	1) How many grams of beans do you plan to roast? 2) What is the wattage of the heating element? With a fluid-bed roaster, if you can match the heating element to the load then you may not require any control of the heating element, because you can control the BMT (bean mass temperature) with the blower control. The higher the air flow, to cooler the air.... oldgearhead attached the following image: No oil on my beans...


carelgrundlingh	#7 Posted on 12/29/2013 1:17 PM
Newbie Posts: 15 Joined: December 25, 2013	Quote oldgearhead wrote: 1) How many grams of beans do you plan to roast? 2) What is the wattage of the heating element? With a fluid-bed roaster, if you can match the heating element to the load then you may not require any control of the heating element, because you can control the BMT (bean mass temperature) with the blower control. The higher the air flow, to cooler the air.... I want to do about 250 gr roasts. I have a 2000 watt heat gun's element and a Poppery II's element (1500 w). My motor is quite strong (a 1600 w vacuum cleaner)....maybe a bit over kill for my roast size, but it has a minimum to maximum toggle switch.


oldgearhead	#8 Posted on 12/29/2013 1:56 PM
1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1128 Joined: February 10, 2011	I roast 500 gram loads with my 1550 watt heat gun element running at 1150 watts, and a PVT of 520?F. Since you are in South Africa, I assume you have a 200 Volt circuit? http://forum.home...ad_id=2207 No oil on my beans...


Viridian	#9 Posted on 12/31/2013 1:42 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 57 Joined: October 12, 2006	OGH, you are doing just what I'm going to attempt. It seems like you should be able to roast 1lb using available power from a household outlet in the USA. Nice work, BTW.


carelgrundlingh	#10 Posted on 12/31/2013 1:46 PM
Newbie Posts: 15 Joined: December 25, 2013	Spot on OGH, we are on 220v....thanks for the info :)


oldgearhead	#11 Posted on 12/31/2013 1:52 PM
1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1128 Joined: February 10, 2011	Viridian - I'm cheating with a 30A/120V circuit that draws 19.0 amps. However, I could get by with a 1100 watt element and, maybe, a single-stage blower. But I won't be changing anything until a failure. The old 'Sundance' spa blower has many hours on it. The key is to re-use the hot air from the RC. No oil on my beans...


Viridian	#12 Posted on 01/01/2014 11:36 AM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 57 Joined: October 12, 2006	Yeah, I've thought about recycling heat for a long time. You guys have actually done it. One thing which I have actually done is to pressurize the roast chamber. Better heat transfer which affects oil migration positively and which deals with the "problems" of air roasting. Coffee stays fresh longer(bloom is insane) and some guys like John Gant have actually been able to mimic drums, with smokey flavor profiles. My .02 This forum rocks with guys that aren't afraid to experiment and have the skills to figure things out. I've learned so much here.


tamarian	#13 Posted on 01/01/2014 10:58 PM
1/2 Pounder Posts: 320 Joined: January 21, 2012	Quote Viridian wrote: One thing which I have actually done is to pressurize the roast chamber. I'm interested, how did you do that? Restricting exhaust? Wa'il. 1 Kg PID'ed gas-fired fluid bed roaster, GS/3MPS, K10F
	Web

oldgearhead	#14 Posted on 01/02/2014 12:06 AM
1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1128 Joined: February 10, 2011	I can't speak for Viridian, but with my roaster I have control of the roast chamber's exit area, and everything is sealed with silicone 'O' rings. Usually I set the area of the RC air outlet at one-half the area of the RC inlet. I've found that any greater restriction than that reduces the amount of hot air available for recycling. Also, remember, I do keep all of chaff inside the top of the SC until after the roast is cooled, and that adds a bit to the restriction during the last half of the roast... oldgearhead attached the following image: No oil on my beans...


Viridian	#15 Posted on 01/02/2014 1:04 AM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 57 Joined: October 12, 2006	Tamarian and OGH, yes I restricted the exhaust. If you have enough air watts you can stopper down the RC exhaust very dramatically and still get good bean mass movement. I was using a Penn State Industries cyclone separator to collect chaff and to evacuate and cool the beans. I no longer want to vacuum(it's so inelegant). For interest's sake, John Gant(Gimme Coffee and Kaladi Bros) hotrodded his 1/4Bag Sivetz with a blower that was almost bigger than the roast chamber. He doesn't seem to be willing to talk about his mods though. I've learned learned the most from making mistakes and from talking to others about the mistakes they've made. Happy New Year!


carelgrundlingh	#16 Posted on 01/07/2014 1:25 PM
Newbie Posts: 15 Joined: December 25, 2013	Done! Thanks for all the input!! Can do anything from 150gr to 650gr depending on the motor setting. 150grams - 9 min to SC. 250grams - 9:45min. Will do a rebuild/upgrade when my ebay PID, thermocouple and SSR arrive....about 30 days to SA :( Until then all manual....but working great carelgrundlingh attached the following image:


tamarian	#17 Posted on 01/07/2014 8:53 PM
1/2 Pounder Posts: 320 Joined: January 21, 2012	Quote carelgrundlingh wrote: Done! Thanks for all the input!! Can do anything from 150gr to 650gr depending on the motor setting. 150grams - 9 min to SC. 250grams - 9:45min. Will do a rebuild/upgrade when my ebay PID, thermocouple and SSR arrive....about 30 days to SA :( Until then all manual....but working great Looks great too. You don't waste any time! Wa'il. 1 Kg PID'ed gas-fired fluid bed roaster, GS/3MPS, K10F
	Web

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