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03/04/2021 9:04 PM
I have been trying Scott Rao Hario V60 pourover this week. 1:17 and blooming with 2 parts water the first 45 seconds then splitting the rest into 2 pours. A little stirring is included. We like it.

03/04/2021 11:35 AM
My brew ratio is 1:17 (exactly 59.5 g/L). That's roughly 8.5g per 5-oz cup.

02/27/2021 9:29 AM
I'm looking to hire someone to teach/help me to find the best roast profile for the 3 types of coffee that grow on my farm in nicaragua. I live in LA, but but could go anywhere in so cal with my Behmor for a roasting lesson. Please contact me if you're in

02/17/2021 7:20 PM
When your wife thinks 30 grams for a 6 cup setting is strong, you learn to drink muddy water when you are making coffee for both of you.

02/17/2021 8:32 AM
I use a rule of thumb of 60 grams per liter. 8 cups (1 liter, 32 oz) = 60 grams, 6 cups (3/4 liter, 24 oz) = 45 grams. 10 cups = 75 grams 12 cups = 90 grams

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In Need of I-Roast 2 Part - Roasting Pot Base
barley
I got my hands on a used i-Roast 2 and after two wonderful roasts I managed to break a plastic part. I know this is a shot in the dark, but does anyone have a spare part they can sell to me?

The part in question is the plastic base to the roasting chamber/pot. It is the black base that screws onto the heater/blower base unit. It has a skinny triangle shaped extrusion that screws on the bottom on the handle on the roasting pot. It is this triangle that snapped (it also holds the small spring-loaded plastic knob that pushes down the safety latch on the roaster).

If you don't have that part, I would also welcome any tips on how to fix it. The piece is just so thin that I don't think simply crazy-gluing it will give it enough strength to work again. Thank you for your consideration and advice!
BenKeith
I looked at mine since I only use the shell, but that part is needed to hold the roast chamber locked in and since I'm using the base and roast chamber, I still need that part.
Too bad it wasn't something in the electronics, I have almost all of that I took out of mine.
They make some pretty dang strong glues now, might want to see about one of those. My daughter tried to turn the cooktop on without pushing down on the knob to unlock it and broke the plastic where it locks over the D shaft. I though what the heck, I tried one of the Super, super glues on it and it has held for four months so far.

From what I've seen, if you find someone that has the part, they are going to want some ridiculously stupid price for it.
renatoa
If no heat in that area, you might consider 3D print a replica...
BenKeith
Is this the part you are asking about?

i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac239/BenKeith/IR2RC_zpser9yzmzv.jpg

If so it's part of the roast chamber and you would need a whole roast chamber to replace it.
Also, if it is, you need to glue it. The one I'm using right now (not the one pictured) is one I glued years ago.

The little peg is what holds the safety switch and helps keep it from coming loose when roasting. That can be worked around if needed to make it work. The one I'm using doesn't even have the peg or the safety switch.
Edited by BenKeith on 02/15/2017 1:45 PM
barley
Yes, that is the part! I would take a whole roasting chamber or just the base if I could.
BenKeith
Maybe you can find someone that broke another part of the roast chamber. This is a complete unit I use. My other I'm using I've glued the base years ago.
barley
I went ahead and glued the part back together using Gorilla Super Glue. It needs to cure 24 hours before I can use it. We'll see. In the meantime I will keep my eyes peeled for spare parts.
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