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Rewire 230V popcorn machine fan & heater
Ploni
Top  #51 Print Post
Posted on 11/18/2021 4:58 PM
Crimp these two (2) white wires together and then insulate the connection?

Curious to know . . . why crimp and not solder?
Ploni attached the following image:
unsoldered.jpg
 
renatoa
Top  #52 Print Post
Posted on 11/19/2021 1:54 AM
Soldering iron is not a common tool for someone who is not in the electrics hobby.
 
Ploni
Top  #53 Print Post
Posted on 11/19/2021 5:34 AM
But you wrote "preferably crimping not soldering" . . .

I have a soldering iron.

Should I solder them?
Ploni attached the following image:
whitewirescrimped.jpg
 
renatoa
Top  #54 Print Post
Posted on 11/19/2021 7:10 AM
I try not use "should" when not an absolute ... bear necessity Grin
Connect them together using your preferred method that guarantee good contact and last.
 
Ploni
Top  #55 Print Post
Posted on 11/20/2021 11:41 AM
Okay. Thanks.

Where are we up to?

What to do next?
 
renatoa
Top  #56 Print Post
Posted on 11/20/2021 11:48 AM
Unsolder the blue wires and procees same way as with the whites.

Power the 24v box and see the speed controller working with no load.

If success, connect motor +/- output from speed controller to the motor board pads where you un-soldered white/blue wires, and check the motor functionality.

If success, the speed controller menu allows you to set a start value at power on, I would set this value to an airflow that barely moves 75 grams or your desired roast batch of greens.

Enough homeworks for now I think...
 
Ploni
Top  #57 Print Post
Posted on 11/21/2021 12:26 PM
Blue wires unsoldered and connected

You wrote: "Power the 24v box and see the speed controller working with no load."

Not sure what that means or what to do next.

Do my connections look correct?
Ploni attached the following image:
rewired.jpg
 
renatoa
Top  #58 Print Post
Posted on 11/21/2021 1:04 PM
The ground brown wire should be yellow/green in an ideal wiring, and be connected with the other yellow/green wire that is grounding the whole metal body of roaster.

Power the 24V box means connect a power cord to the L/N screw terminals, and plug into mains/wall.

But if you ask such thing, I am starting to be afraid about the smallest mistake you could do there and fire your house... really no friend around with elementary electrical skills ? Not electronics, just electric...
 
Ploni
Top  #59 Print Post
Posted on 11/21/2021 4:36 PM
Please help me finish this project.

I will photograph my setup and post as I complete each step.

I have replaced the brown ground wire with a yellow/green wire.

Should the ground be connected to the screw at the very top of the unit (just above the now-disconnected thermostat) or should it be connected to the screw at the bottom where the other yellow/green striped wire is attached along with the yellow wire (with green markings)?

I will look for a power cord tomorrow.

Should it be the same specs as the power cord on the popcorn machine?
Ploni attached the following image:
yellowgreen.jpg
Edited by Ploni on 11/21/2021 4:46 PM
 
renatoa
Top  #60 Print Post
Posted on 11/22/2021 2:00 AM
Any point where you have grounded metal is ok.

Motor power is much much smaller, so the thinnest power cord is ok.
You can get power from popper power cord, but in this moment I don't know what is the status of heater wiring, that' why I am scared to advise you to connect using a single power cord...
If you plug into mains with heater ON and no fan, you have a fire in the making...

Better post a picture of actual status of the popper innards, we need this anyway for heater control connection.
If I diagnose heater is disconnected, would tell you where to connect the motor power.
 
Ploni
Top  #61 Print Post
Posted on 11/22/2021 6:28 AM
Okay. Thanks.

In this photo you can see the ground (middle connecting screw on the 24V unit) is connected by a proper yellow/green wire to the bottom ground connection on the popper unit.

You can also see the red wire has been unsoldered from the board and insulated.

Also the white wires are connected as are the blue wires.

What do I do with the blue wire with terminal clip that I removed from the thermostat?

You wrote: "a picture of actual status of the popper innards"

What exactly should I photograph?

"the white-red-blue wires resistance": where should I place the positive & negative probes?
Ploni attached the following image:
ground.jpg
Edited by Ploni on 11/22/2021 7:54 AM
 
renatoa
Top  #62 Print Post
Posted on 11/22/2021 6:46 AM
I want to see how and where are connected the wires from popper mains cord.

Do you own a multimeter ? Please, measure the white-red-blue wires resistance.
 
Ploni
Top  #63 Print Post
Posted on 11/22/2021 7:21 AM
As you know, three (3) wires come from the popper's main cord: the yellow/green attached to the housing ground screw (where I just connected the ground wire from the 24V unit); a blue wire that I unsoldered from the board; and a light brown-grey wire that continues into the metal housing.

Should I open the four {4} screws of the metal housing and photograph inside?
 
renatoa
Top  #64 Print Post
Posted on 11/22/2021 7:48 AM
No, don't open !

Please confirm my wiring guess in the picture attached.

And waiting for red-blue-white wires resistance measurement.
... zzz ...
renatoa attached the following image:
230v_generic_2b_edited.jpeg
 
Ploni
Top  #65 Print Post
Posted on 11/22/2021 8:05 AM
Yes.

The light brown-grey wire connects to a red wire which connects to the switch.

The blue wire goes directly to the switch.

Where do I place the + & – probes of the multimeter?
 
renatoa
Top  #66 Print Post
Posted on 11/22/2021 8:38 AM
Any order, just note the values as pairs of wires, like:
white-red - xx
white-blue - yy
red-blue -zz
 
Ploni
Top  #67 Print Post
Posted on 11/24/2021 3:06 AM
Forgive me but I don't know how to do this.

I turned the meter to the ohms setting. Where do I place the probes?
 
renatoa
Top  #68 Print Post
Posted on 11/24/2021 3:53 AM
on the metal tips of white/red/blue wires coming from the heater.

As in the attached image.
Beware, you aim to measure the tips of the wires that were un-soldered from the board, not pads on the actual PCB board !
...
renatoa attached the following image:
230v_generic_2_edited_1_1.jpeg
Edited by renatoa on 11/24/2021 6:24 AM
 
Ploni
Top  #69 Print Post
Posted on 11/24/2021 6:38 AM
Red+ on blue, Black– on white heater wire = .048
Red+ on red, Black– on blue heater wire = .038
Red+ on white, Black– on red heater wire = .009
 
renatoa
Top  #70 Print Post
Posted on 11/24/2021 7:44 AM
I guess the above are read on a kOhm scale, and they are actual 9/38/48 Ohms.

OK, these measurements confirm your model match with my wife popcorn machine, so we have a reference. Grin

Red remains insulated, as was stated in a previous post.

Use the two blue wires, as in the picture attached, to power the motor source.
After connecting them, and ensure that the white and red wires from heater are insulated and goes nowhere, you can power and see if the motor spin and change speed.
...
renatoa attached the following image:
230v_generic_2_edited_2.jpeg
Edited by renatoa on 11/24/2021 7:49 AM
 
Ploni
Top  #71 Print Post
Posted on 11/24/2021 7:47 AM
Yes. I had the meter set on 2k, not 200.

Here's a photo of what I have now.

Which blue wire should be connected to which power terminal screw?

(There doesn't seem to be enough length on either wire.)
Ploni attached the following image:
bluewirestopower.jpg
Edited by Ploni on 11/24/2021 12:14 PM
 
Ploni
Top  #72 Print Post
Posted on 11/24/2021 3:09 PM
Here's my current setup:
Ploni attached the following image:
currentsetup.jpg
 
renatoa
Top  #73 Print Post
Posted on 11/24/2021 3:21 PM
OK, next step, brown and blue wires, to the 24V power box L/N terminal screws.
Then red/brown wires from +/- motor of the speed controller, to the motor board.

And you have powered the fan.
When you have this working, will continue with the heater.
 
Ploni
Top  #74 Print Post
Posted on 11/25/2021 1:13 AM
What is "to the motor board"?
 
renatoa
Top  #75 Print Post
Posted on 11/25/2021 1:22 AM
This
...
renatoa attached the following image:
230v_generic_edited_1.jpeg
 
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