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Kilogram Roaster, Pictures
Here is all I am using from the bread machine bread pan. ;)

I used a drill and my Dremel to remove the 'bayonet' lug attachment. The silicon
washer was used in their assembly, so I will also use it.:)

Here is another picture of the attaching mechanism that will be mounted to the SS bowl

I spent a bit of time laying out the bottom of the bowl so everything would be centered. s:6

This is critical because you want the mixing arms to be close to the sides without touching. s:3
It turns out that the mount is not all that precision made. s:8

It is good to mark the holes through the piece onto the SS bowl. The mount only fits on one way! Shock
You need to remember when you are using BM parts as templates, that they only work one way, and the 'template' should be positioned to use the holes in their correct positions:8
If it is upside down... it doesn't work out :(:(

It is just placed on loosely to show the need for the 'arrow'. Rotate it even a 1/4 turn and none of the holes line up! c:2

But the shaft is centered within a 16th of an inch. Maybe better. s:2

Edited by peterz on 01/28/2006 4:48 PM
This is what I have accomplished so far on this project.
Here is a picture of the bowl mounted on the bread machine:

It is MUCH bigger than the PGR Grin

The rim around the lid is not wide enough to allow 1" insulation, so it needs to be made wider.
I tried various hub caps and wheel covers etc, but a SS wok turned out to be best:

Wish I took pics before I cut it, but you get the idea.

All the cuts in the wok allow it to be squeezed on to the top of the bowl:

In the picture it is just held on by friction. It will have to be attached more permanently.

The lid of an old commercial stock pot fit on the wok nicely.
It was relatively easy to mount the CO in the lid.
Here it is in a trial fit:

The wok rim fits into the groove in the lid. B)

This is the current paddle design! YMMV

Not very scientific here. I mounted the paddle, turned on the machine, and slowly added beans.
The beans have to mix thoroughly with all amounts in it.
If the beans fly out the paddle needs modification.
If they do not mix properly, it needs modification.
It is goodness when you can slowly add 3# of beans and they all stay in the bowl,
and they all mix properly!

State of the art.

It kind of does look like an outboard prop sitting there:

And don't forget the washer so the beans do not sneak down under the paddle:

Here is the underside of the Turbo Oven:

Note the groove around the outer rim that the wok sits into.

More on the paddle:

No machining here, it is all bent by hand using aluminum from the original bread baking pan.
Screws hold everything together now.
Drilled and tapped holes.
No more RTV.

Another view
Edited by peterz on 05/16/2006 7:01 PM
Here is the totally moded Turbo Oven:

The large plug connects to 10 Gage wire that runs directly to the heating element B)
The smaller cord is the original, and it just runs the fan now. s:2
The top is the lid from a cook pot, and the 'screen' was salvaged from an old fryolator.

Looking good. s:2 You're having way too much fun with this. What are you going to do when it is finished ;)

Mike, we should probably start a new thread with this, so feel free to move this post.
Since there are a lot of us wanting to roast with electricity B)Grins:2
I want make a horizontal drum.
The genie roaster is neat, but I think that running the drum true, with air blowing first horizontlly along the outside and then back through the interior would have great potential.
Vanes mix very well. s:1
The Turbo Oven is a very nice engine, and I bet it could be adapted to do what I just suggested. s:8s:8s:8

Is anyone else doing the bread machine project along with me? c:2
or ahead of me since I am so slow with it? s:6c:3

Here is the partially finished roaster outside on its stand.
The outer cover is aluminum flashing cut like barrel staves so I could get the insulation supported close to the bowl.
I used one sheet metal screw to attach the bottom to the dog bowl, and a screw clamp at the top for adjustment. s:7

Yup, ugly.
I am not sure yet how to fit the cover to it, an outer skin of Stainless Steel.

This is what I plan to roast for the first test. 1278 grams of UGH from Tom.
Started with three pounds, and this is what is left from the mixing/paddle design/testing. It is in the carry to and from the house bowl. s:8 c:1

You can see the mountains in the background. They are in California. The close ones. You can not see the mountains beyond those as they are grayed out.. dust in the wind..
Here is a picture of the inside of the roaster with the beans spinning after they have 'cooled'
They are actually churning quite nicely. Evidence is the even roast quality.

There is room to roast lots more beans in this rig B)
It would need a lot more heating power though :| c:4

Now a pic of the completed roast in the carry into the house bowl.
It is lots fuller now.

The thermocouble is mounted differently on this roaster.Shock
I cut the metal sheath from a turkey fryer thermometer, 11.5 inches, and formed it so it goes into the the hole I made with the Dremel, and intrudes into the chamber about 3/8 inch.
You can see the point of it protruding to the right of the paddle. The TC goes right to the point, but it is inside the stainless sheath. s:2
Edited by peterz on 05/27/2006 11:55 PM
Here is the heating element I removed from another Turbo Oven.,%202006/new%20element.jpg

It has screws to hold the wires to it, and it mounts in a way that will make it fairly easy to mount in front of the GG heating element, so the one fan will blow air through both.
This element will also be on a seperate switch, and I expect to use it just for quick ramping at the beginning of the roast.

PeterZ c:3
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