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Ice Cream Maker Motor?
So I am newbie with 2 ice cream maker motors sitting on the workbench for the BBQ roaster in my head, and Beaner has already compiled some real-world experience with these. In theory, they have plenty of torque, are in the right rpm range and are 120V ac (plug in and go).

What wisdom can you all share?

David, compared to the HR gurus here I'm a newby also and I bet some of em have already done things with these motors that I haven't thought of.

The motor I have seems to have good torque and rotates right about 60 rpm, perfect for me. I'll tell ya what I'll do, tomorrow I'll take some pics and post them for you so if nothing else you won't have to restep my failures.

I will tell you for now that my latest attempt involes PC7 2-part epoxy, a 3/8 bolt and a tee-nut. Basically, I packed the female plastic hex gear piece with the PC7 and imbedded the nut into the epoxy. Then I threaded the bolt thru the tee-nut till it protruded just a bit past the nut. After the PC7 cures you have a threaded shaft sticking out of the plastic hex piece.

There was a bit more to it than that to try and get the bolt as perpendicular as possible with the plastic hex piece but that's the general idea.

On earlier attempts I wanted the epoxy/bolt part to be removable so I greased the inside of the plastic hex piece so that the cured epoxy would pop out easier. I was just using the plastic piece as a mold. If you look close at the pic I posted in my other thread about window motors you will see a metal strip on the front of the motor with a 3/8 hole in it that the bolt runs through. I did that to make sure the expoxy part didn't come out during rotation as it did with a previous attempt.

Although it's easy to fabricate it's not easy to describe in text so I'll stop here and wait till tomorrow when I take some pics.

Not all ice cream motors use that female hex piece to mate with the stirrer, I bought another machine from Good Will that has a male hex piece.

The tee-nut:
Beaner attached the following image:

Edited by Beaner on 08/09/2009 10:59 PM
Ok DavidG, here goes.

First off, the plastic gear piece I was talking about isn't hex shaped, it's star shaped. Doh.

Second, what does your piece look like from your motor? Is it an inny or an outy?

Now the pics.

This pic shows the original star gear before mutilation. I had to go up to Good Will and take this pic of another ice cream motor. I didn't want to remove my thing from my gear and possibly create a new problem.
Beaner attached the following image:
This pic shows the innards with the gear removed. Notice the square brass thing on top, it is what the plastic star piece sits on top of and is what keeps it steady. Supposedly.

Look closer and you will see some PC-7 epoxy around the brass thing. I put some there because it wasn't steady enough when the star gear was placed on it. I had to cut & scrape off some excess PC-7 on the metal brace that the brass thing sits in so that the star gear would mount flat.
Beaner attached the following image:

Edited by Beaner on 08/10/2009 8:46 PM
Next pic shows my "thing" placed into the brass hub. You can see the PC-7 epoxy that the tee nut was imbedded into. Look closer and you will see some solder around the bolt where it meets the tee nut.

I had to do this because the bolt was threading into the tee nut during rotation. The epoxy doesn't bond very well to the bolt.

There are four little pointed tabs on the tee nut and I bent each one to the side a little to help hold it in the epoxy after hardening.
Beaner attached the following image:
This pic shows a couple of failed attempts. The top one actually worked at first but the bolt reemed out of the epoxy during rotation. I hadn't yet added the metal retaining strip on the outside of the motor casing.

The second one wasn't perpendicular enough to the plastic piece and created too much off center wobble.

The bottom part is just what the pieces look like before being imbedded into the epoxy. When I did this I had to extend the threaded rod far enough past the bottom face of the plastic gear to place a couple of washers and a nut. This helped to keep the threaded rod as centered as possible. The washers also kept the epoxy from oozing out the bottom when clamping the whole thing down.

It didn't come out perfect but it was good enough.

Now I'm sure there are other ways to do this (and probably better ways) but this is what I did. I decided to stop there and not try to improve it since it does work. At least for now.
Beaner attached the following image:

Edited by Beaner on 08/10/2009 8:50 PM

Thank you so much for taking the time to share with me your photos and your lessons learned. Much, much appreciated. Now I don't have to re-invent the wheel, er... coupling!

Koffee Kosmo
Couplings for heat associated products are a pain
Life would be a lot simpler if the motor could take the heat and be used as direct drive to its shaft

I home roast and I like it. Designer of the KKTO
Roaster Build information
Blog -

Bezzera Strega, Mazzer Robur Grinder, Pullman Tamper Convex,
(KKTO) Turbo Oven Home Roaster.
There are two main problems with this motor; one is that the mating part is female, and the other is that you pretty much have to use the casing that it comes in.

The piece being female is is a problem because unless you provide something extra to keep the home made coupling in place it will fall out.
However, if the drum shaft and the motor are both laterally secured the the coupling piece that fits into the female star shouldn't fall out. There is no way my coffee can roaster would work without the metal plate I added to hold my contraption in place.

Now this other ice cream motor has a male coupling piece but it presents it's own set of problems. Mainly that it mounts from the bottom and uses the large round base as a casing. So a custom mounting plate would have to be built to use it. That is unless one would actually want to use that base.
Beaner attached the following image:
Using Kk's idea of a socket over a gear with a socket extender seems like it will work with this. A 7/16 socket fits pretty good over it. I'm using a short socket here but I think I'd want to use a 6-sided deep socket.
Beaner attached the following image:
Beaner and KK,
Excellent ideas! I am also engaging my secret weapon (mechanical engineer brother)! I will report back on what I decide upon for the power system, drive train and the drum (currently face to face SS silverwear baskets from Ikea with alum screen added for the large holes).


to quote John, "This is way, way fun."
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