Skywalker roaster... | [275] |
Skywalker, the AL... | [197] |
Dereks 1-2Kg drum... | [115] |
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Building a drum roaster
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Ringo |
Posted on 01/25/2010 3:45 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
I will put in a trier, Want to get the roaster turning a full rpm so I can pick the spot. Lot of stuff to fit in the frount of the roaster, going to be tight. I need two temp probes, one bean on enviromental, trier, sight glass, dump door, and the exhaust opening also serves as the opening to add beans. If you look at the picture, the first set of veins are 1 1/4 inchs high and the come all the wat to the frount of the drum, so the beans will dump. The reverse veins do not start for 3 inches, I am going to use that 3 inches for trier and temp probes. just have to stay out of the first 1 1/4 inches from the outside off drum. New pictures coming soon, got a good bit done this weekend. Drum frame is mounted, as soon as I get drum turning will post more.
Edited by Ringo on 01/25/2010 3:52 PM |
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Ringo |
Posted on 01/31/2010 6:59 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Update on the roaster, Been a fight getting the drum to turn without locking up. Had to some design changes, frount and back plates had to be attached. Also had to add more threaded rods to adjust the plates. as you can see in one picture it now runs and gets hot with the propane burners. Next step is drum outer cover and ventilization system.
Ringo attached the following image:
Edited by Ringo on 01/31/2010 7:00 PM |
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Ringo |
Posted on 01/31/2010 7:03 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Back side with air holes cut
Ringo attached the following image:
Edited by Ringo on 01/31/2010 7:03 PM |
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Ringo |
Posted on 01/31/2010 7:04 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Drum and burner running
Ringo attached the following image:
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seedlings |
Posted on 02/01/2010 7:44 AM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 4226 Joined: June 27, 2007 |
Hints of success! CHAD Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500 Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover |
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jerry43 |
Posted on 02/04/2010 9:48 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 73 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
I found some info on pipe burner btu output. According to this faq, a 3/4 inch pipe with 18 inches of flame puts out 10,000 btu. 12 inches of flame would be 9,000. http://www.burner...nerfaq.pdf 1500 watts is equal to 5120 btu. Edited by seedlings on 02/04/2010 10:19 AM |
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seedlings |
Posted on 02/04/2010 10:22 AM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 4226 Joined: June 27, 2007 |
Great link! CHAD Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500 Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover |
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Ringo |
Posted on 02/04/2010 10:58 AM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
That is a great page, I used it while working on my design. I believe I have more BTU than that, I am using an adjustable presure regulator set at 5 psi. The 8" water colume is much lower presure. I drilled double the holes, 50 per side. With 1/2 spacing the flame jumped hole to hole very slowly. I think I have too much heat, but using a needle valve after the presure valve I can regulate the flame height very well. I know that putting in this needle valve after the presure valve my jet is not seeing the 5 psi. But if I raise presure a little the flame changes. I think if you played with smaller jetting you could put full presure to jet and get more BTUs. One nice think is I have room for 4 tube heaters in my roaster, so if I need more heat I can add them. If anybody wants to know I am running #56 jets now.http://www.tejass...urners.htm http://www.wedlin...urners.htm http://www.allied...034805eb9f http://bayouclass.../index.htm A few of my links. Edited by seedlings on 02/04/2010 12:42 PM |
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Ringo |
Posted on 02/04/2010 12:08 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
One warning on the pipe burners, I do not think they will work for an air roaster. If too much air blows past them they will blow out. You might be able to use one before the blower and pull the hot air through, but for air roaster I would use a burner tip from a welding shop like other people on this site. |
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seedlings |
Posted on 02/04/2010 12:44 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 4226 Joined: June 27, 2007 |
Quote Ringo wrote: One warning on the pipe burners, I do not think they will work for an air roaster. If too much air blows past them they will blow out. You might be able to use one before the blower and pull the hot air through, but for air roaster I would use a burner tip from a welding shop like other people on this site. Right! For air flow burners, read up on these resources: http://ronreil.ab...ign1.shtml http://www.jossre...rsion.html CHAD Edited by seedlings on 02/04/2010 1:02 PM Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500 Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover |
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Ringo |
Posted on 02/23/2010 7:54 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Update on my roaster, First I screwed thin sheet metal to the angle iron. On the outside of this I put 1 inch thick fiberglass duct board.
Ringo attached the following image:
Edited by Ringo on 02/23/2010 7:58 PM |
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Ringo |
Posted on 02/23/2010 8:04 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Next I used thin aluminum used to wrap steam pipes. Its thin and cheep. I used steel strapping to hold it all together. The hole you see is a view port to keep an eye on the burners. Next I have to work on the front of the roaster.
Ringo attached the following image:
Edited by Ringo on 02/23/2010 8:07 PM |
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seedlings |
Posted on 02/23/2010 10:18 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 4226 Joined: June 27, 2007 |
Yes! Yes! Yes! Looking sharp, Ringo! CHAD Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500 Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover |
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jerry43 |
Posted on 03/12/2010 11:06 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 73 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
What are you using for your viewport glass and are you allowing for any thermal expansion? I trashed a toaster oven a few months ago that I could have got glass from. Almost kept it but decided I had too much junk around as is. |
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Ringo |
Posted on 03/12/2010 12:01 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Got my glass from Mcmaster Carr. part number 1357T31. I work with boilers at work and use this glass to view the firebox. So it should be good, but no garantee. The glass on the side is welding hood glass, we also use this with boilers. For thermal shock just made a loose fit, room for differential expantion. Ringo |
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DrJimmy |
Posted on 03/12/2010 3:40 PM
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Newbie Posts: 25 Joined: August 28, 2009 |
One source for free glass is the really old gas grills that still had windows. Also, ovens have glass on the inside that withstands at least 600 degF for self cleaning.
JIM
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Ringo |
Posted on 03/24/2010 12:49 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
I am hoping that I am inspiring other builders, it has taken me a long time. I am not a welder so I am slow. On my project new pictures soon, almost ready for first test run. I found this picture online, its a Ambex YM2 or at least thats how its labled. Would have loved to have this picture before I started.
Ringo attached the following image:
Edited by Ringo on 03/24/2010 12:53 PM |
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Ringo |
Posted on 03/24/2010 12:55 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
The outside
Ringo attached the following image:
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jerry43 |
Posted on 03/25/2010 6:53 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 73 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Ringo, Looking mighty good there! Post your pics sized to the limit of 500x500 pixels so we can get a better look. |
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Ringo |
Posted on 03/25/2010 7:18 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Here is the link to the site I found it, Its on Flicker not a very good picture. http://www.flickr.com/photos/wheregoodthingsgrow/ its page 9 or 10
Edited by Ringo on 03/25/2010 7:22 PM |
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jerry43 |
Posted on 03/25/2010 7:24 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 73 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Thanks for the link. It is a hefty drum with some nice welding inside. |
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jerry43 |
Posted on 03/25/2010 7:30 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 73 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
I found some super nice red paint for my non-hot parts of my roaster frame. It's Valspar Oil Enamel in red gloss. The brush on can says it has a hard tile like finish. It looks wet even when dry. I gotta try it on some piece of farm equipment and see how it holds up in the sun. |
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Ringo |
Posted on 03/25/2010 7:53 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Its hard to tell in the picture but it may be a thick ring welded to the end of the drum. If the drum is that thick the drum has a lot of steel. |
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DrJimmy |
Posted on 03/26/2010 5:56 AM
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Newbie Posts: 25 Joined: August 28, 2009 |
That ring looks to me like a stiffener - maybe mild steel that is used to maintain the roundness of the drum. This would allow the use of thinner stainless while still keeping things straight. Another interesting item is that the mount for the shaft is female. This would allow you to put the whole drum in a lathe from the outside and machine the inside diameter rather than machining the outside of the drum. Not sure what I'm looking at on those flipper flappers. The seem to be in line with the rotation of the drum. Maybe they're cracker croakers. I'm not a welder either (certifiable maybe) but I might differ with Jerry on the quality of the welds. If Ringo works with boilers he knows what I mean. JIM
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Ringo |
Posted on 03/26/2010 6:04 AM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
What I think the flaps are are the return veins, used to kick the beans back to the back of drum. Looks like they left a little tab on the forward veins to weld the reverse veins too. You could put them on the forward veins outside the drum. Look a little bit light weight. I also was surprised how short the forward veins were. But I know these are great roasters. On a side note, I want to go have coffee at that shop, that guy knows his stuff I think. Ringo Edited by Ringo on 03/26/2010 6:06 AM |
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