Login
Shoutbox
You must login to post a message.
allenb
03/27/2023 6:44 AM
ivitamin 
renatoa
03/23/2023 10:31 AM
Welcome, bob22
allenb
03/22/2023 8:52 AM
Thanks skpacman! all help with our site is much appreciated! 
skpacman
03/20/2023 8:57 PM
Added some code to combat against bots. If anyone has issues with it, let me know. ❤
renatoa
03/19/2023 4:55 AM
frankvanhaarlem, fenix and Andyleighmyers
Forum Threads
Newest Threads
Colombia Santa BarbaraWant to buy SR500
Roast Color Nerdy Stuff
TC4 - Coding and tec...
Artisan Fan Slider C...
Hottest Threads
| TC4 - Coding and ... | [324] |
| Roast Color Nerdy... | [66] |
| Espresso maker un... | [30] |
| CafeMasy SCR-300 ... | [21] |
| 2 series heat gun... | [21] |
In Memory Of Ginny
Donations
Latest Donations
dmccallum - 10.00
JackH - 25.00
snwcmpr - 10.00
Anonymous - 2.00
Anonymous - 5.00
dmccallum - 10.00
JackH - 25.00
snwcmpr - 10.00
Anonymous - 2.00
Anonymous - 5.00
Users Online
Guests Online: 13
Members Online: 0
Total Members: 7,831
Newest Member: ivitamin
Members Online: 0
Total Members: 7,831
Newest Member: ivitamin
View Thread
Who is here? 1 guest(s)
 Building a drum roaster
|
|
| jerry43 |
Posted on 02/04/2010 9:48 AM
|
 1/4 Pounder  Posts: 73 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
I found some info on pipe burner btu output. According to this faq, a 3/4 inch pipe with 18 inches of flame puts out 10,000 btu. 12 inches of flame would be 9,000. http://www.burner...nerfaq.pdf 1500 watts is equal to 5120 btu. Edited by seedlings on 02/04/2010 10:19 AM |
|
|
|
| seedlings |
Posted on 02/04/2010 10:22 AM
|
 1 1/2 Pounder  Posts: 4226 Joined: June 27, 2007 |
Great link! CHAD Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500 Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover |
|
|
|
| Ringo |
Posted on 02/04/2010 10:58 AM
|
 Pounder  Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
That is a great page, I used it while working on my design. I believe I have more BTU than that, I am using an adjustable presure regulator set at 5 psi. The 8" water colume is much lower presure. I drilled double the holes, 50 per side. With 1/2 spacing the flame jumped hole to hole very slowly. I think I have too much heat, but using a needle valve after the presure valve I can regulate the flame height very well. I know that putting in this needle valve after the presure valve my jet is not seeing the 5 psi. But if I raise presure a little the flame changes. I think if you played with smaller jetting you could put full presure to jet and get more BTUs. One nice think is I have room for 4 tube heaters in my roaster, so if I need more heat I can add them. If anybody wants to know I am running #56 jets now.http://www.tejass...urners.htm http://www.wedlin...urners.htm http://www.allied...034805eb9f http://bayouclass.../index.htm A few of my links. Edited by seedlings on 02/04/2010 12:42 PM |
|
|
|
| Ringo |
Posted on 02/04/2010 12:08 PM
|
|
Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
One warning on the pipe burners, I do not think they will work for an air roaster. If too much air blows past them they will blow out. You might be able to use one before the blower and pull the hot air through, but for air roaster I would use a burner tip from a welding shop like other people on this site. |
|
|
|
| seedlings |
Posted on 02/04/2010 12:44 PM
|
|
1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 4226 Joined: June 27, 2007 |
Quote Ringo wrote: One warning on the pipe burners, I do not think they will work for an air roaster. If too much air blows past them they will blow out. You might be able to use one before the blower and pull the hot air through, but for air roaster I would use a burner tip from a welding shop like other people on this site. Right! For air flow burners, read up on these resources: http://ronreil.ab...ign1.shtml http://www.jossre...rsion.html CHAD Edited by seedlings on 02/04/2010 1:02 PM Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500 Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover |
|
|
|
| Ringo |
Posted on 02/23/2010 7:54 PM
|
|
Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Update on my roaster, First I screwed thin sheet metal to the angle iron. On the outside of this I put 1 inch thick fiberglass duct board.
Ringo attached the following image:
Edited by Ringo on 02/23/2010 7:58 PM |
|
|
|
| Ringo |
Posted on 02/23/2010 8:04 PM
|
|
Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Next I used thin aluminum used to wrap steam pipes. Its thin and cheep. I used steel strapping to hold it all together. The hole you see is a view port to keep an eye on the burners. Next I have to work on the front of the roaster.
Ringo attached the following image:
Edited by Ringo on 02/23/2010 8:07 PM |
|
|
|
| seedlings |
Posted on 02/23/2010 10:18 PM
|
|
1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 4226 Joined: June 27, 2007 |
Yes! Yes! Yes! Looking sharp, Ringo! CHAD Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500 Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover |
|
|
|
| jerry43 |
Posted on 03/12/2010 11:06 AM
|
|
1/4 Pounder Posts: 73 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
What are you using for your viewport glass and are you allowing for any thermal expansion? I trashed a toaster oven a few months ago that I could have got glass from. Almost kept it but decided I had too much junk around as is. |
|
|
|
| Ringo |
Posted on 03/12/2010 12:01 PM
|
|
Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Got my glass from Mcmaster Carr. part number 1357T31. I work with boilers at work and use this glass to view the firebox. So it should be good, but no garantee. The glass on the side is welding hood glass, we also use this with boilers. For thermal shock just made a loose fit, room for differential expantion. Ringo |
|
|
|
| DrJimmy |
Posted on 03/12/2010 3:40 PM
|
|
Newbie  Posts: 25 Joined: August 28, 2009 |
One source for free glass is the really old gas grills that still had windows. Also, ovens have glass on the inside that withstands at least 600 degF for self cleaning.
JIM
|
|
|
|
| Ringo |
Posted on 03/24/2010 12:49 PM
|
|
Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
I am hoping that I am inspiring other builders, it has taken me a long time. I am not a welder so I am slow. On my project new pictures soon, almost ready for first test run. I found this picture online, its a Ambex YM2 or at least thats how its labled. Would have loved to have this picture before I started.
Ringo attached the following image:
Edited by Ringo on 03/24/2010 12:53 PM |
|
|
|
| Ringo |
Posted on 03/24/2010 12:55 PM
|
|
Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
The outside
Ringo attached the following image:
|
|
|
|
| jerry43 |
Posted on 03/25/2010 6:53 PM
|
|
1/4 Pounder Posts: 73 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Ringo, Looking mighty good there! Post your pics sized to the limit of 500x500 pixels so we can get a better look. |
|
|
|
| Ringo |
Posted on 03/25/2010 7:18 PM
|
|
Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Here is the link to the site I found it, Its on Flicker not a very good picture. http://www.flickr.com/photos/wheregoodthingsgrow/ its page 9 or 10
Edited by Ringo on 03/25/2010 7:22 PM |
|
|
|
| jerry43 |
Posted on 03/25/2010 7:24 PM
|
|
1/4 Pounder Posts: 73 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Thanks for the link. It is a hefty drum with some nice welding inside. |
|
|
|
| jerry43 |
Posted on 03/25/2010 7:30 PM
|
|
1/4 Pounder Posts: 73 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
I found some super nice red paint for my non-hot parts of my roaster frame. It's Valspar Oil Enamel in red gloss. The brush on can says it has a hard tile like finish. It looks wet even when dry. I gotta try it on some piece of farm equipment and see how it holds up in the sun. |
|
|
|
| Ringo |
Posted on 03/25/2010 7:53 PM
|
|
Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Its hard to tell in the picture but it may be a thick ring welded to the end of the drum. If the drum is that thick the drum has a lot of steel. |
|
|
|
| DrJimmy |
Posted on 03/26/2010 5:56 AM
|
|
Newbie Posts: 25 Joined: August 28, 2009 |
That ring looks to me like a stiffener - maybe mild steel that is used to maintain the roundness of the drum. This would allow the use of thinner stainless while still keeping things straight. Another interesting item is that the mount for the shaft is female. This would allow you to put the whole drum in a lathe from the outside and machine the inside diameter rather than machining the outside of the drum. Not sure what I'm looking at on those flipper flappers. The seem to be in line with the rotation of the drum. Maybe they're cracker croakers. I'm not a welder either (certifiable maybe) but I might differ with Jerry on the quality of the welds. If Ringo works with boilers he knows what I mean. JIM
|
|
|
|
| Ringo |
Posted on 03/26/2010 6:04 AM
|
|
Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
What I think the flaps are are the return veins, used to kick the beans back to the back of drum. Looks like they left a little tab on the forward veins to weld the reverse veins too. You could put them on the forward veins outside the drum. Look a little bit light weight. I also was surprised how short the forward veins were. But I know these are great roasters. On a side note, I want to go have coffee at that shop, that guy knows his stuff I think. Ringo Edited by Ringo on 03/26/2010 6:06 AM |
|
|
|
| jerry43 |
Posted on 03/26/2010 7:47 AM
|
|
1/4 Pounder Posts: 73 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Ever try welding thin stainless steel? Stainless conducts heat better than mild steel. You have distortion to deal with and the risk of burn through. Add in the the tiny space welding in the drum and it is no piece of cake. |
|
|
|
| DrJimmy |
Posted on 03/26/2010 8:16 AM
|
|
Newbie Posts: 25 Joined: August 28, 2009 |
Yep, agree Jerry. Not the easiest. My point is if these are "mass produced" as it says in the photo album, this is not what I would have expected.
JIM
|
|
|
|
| Ringo |
Posted on 03/26/2010 8:29 AM
|
|
Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Jerry, funny you said that today I am welding thin stainless today, what a pain. Welding on my trier, and the big funnel to load beans. Ringo |
|
|
|
| Ringo |
Posted on 03/30/2010 8:21 PM
|
|
Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Did the trial roast tonight, I feel like it went good. The roast went way too fast. 1C at 6:30 I had a FC+ at 9 min with some tipping. I just have to learn to slow this down, but I feel like I have plenty of heat, plenty of air.
Edited by Ringo on 03/30/2010 8:27 PM |
|
|
|
| John Despres |
Posted on 03/30/2010 8:56 PM
|
 Administrator  Posts: 2221 Joined: January 09, 2008 |
Sounds like you built a monster that needs taming! Congratulations! John Respect the bean.
John Despres Fresh Roast 8, Gene Cafe, JYTT 1k, Quest M3, Mazzer Mini, Technivorm, various size presses and many more brewers. |
|
|
|
| Jump to Forum: |
Similar Threads
| Thread | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fluid Bed Roaster Calculator | Fluidbed Roaster | 11 | 03/22/2023 11:26 PM |
| Bellwether Roaster | Drum Roaster (Store Bought and Commercial) | 22 | 02/25/2023 11:24 AM |
| 1-6 lbs Roaster Build - Nothing Fancy | Drum Roasters | 28 | 02/18/2023 9:52 AM |
| Android App: Coffee Roaster Free | ROASTING SOFTWARE APPS | 2 | 01/30/2023 10:32 AM |
| "Well tempered roaster" more feedback | Roasting Coffee | 34 | 01/20/2023 2:30 AM |
Powered by PHP-Fusion Copyright © 2023 PHP-Fusion Inc
Released as free software without warranties under GNU Affero GPL v3
Designed with ♥ by NetriXHosted by skpacman