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Building a drum roaster
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jerry43 |
Posted on 03/25/2010 7:24 PM
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![]() 1/4 Pounder ![]() Posts: 73 Joined: January 14, 2010 Location: Virginia |
Thanks for the link. It is a hefty drum with some nice welding inside. |
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jerry43 |
Posted on 03/25/2010 7:30 PM
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![]() 1/4 Pounder ![]() Posts: 73 Joined: January 14, 2010 Location: Virginia |
I found some super nice red paint for my non-hot parts of my roaster frame. It's Valspar Oil Enamel in red gloss. The brush on can says it has a hard tile like finish. It looks wet even when dry. I gotta try it on some piece of farm equipment and see how it holds up in the sun. |
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Ringo |
Posted on 03/25/2010 7:53 PM
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![]() Pounder ![]() Posts: 472 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Its hard to tell in the picture but it may be a thick ring welded to the end of the drum. If the drum is that thick the drum has a lot of steel. |
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DrJimmy |
Posted on 03/26/2010 5:56 AM
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![]() Newbie ![]() Posts: 25 Joined: August 28, 2009 Location: Holly Springs, NC |
That ring looks to me like a stiffener - maybe mild steel that is used to maintain the roundness of the drum. This would allow the use of thinner stainless while still keeping things straight. Another interesting item is that the mount for the shaft is female. This would allow you to put the whole drum in a lathe from the outside and machine the inside diameter rather than machining the outside of the drum. Not sure what I'm looking at on those flipper flappers. The seem to be in line with the rotation of the drum. Maybe they're cracker croakers. I'm not a welder either (certifiable maybe) but I might differ with Jerry on the quality of the welds. If Ringo works with boilers he knows what I mean. JIM
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Ringo |
Posted on 03/26/2010 6:04 AM
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![]() Pounder ![]() Posts: 472 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
What I think the flaps are are the return veins, used to kick the beans back to the back of drum. Looks like they left a little tab on the forward veins to weld the reverse veins too. You could put them on the forward veins outside the drum. Look a little bit light weight. I also was surprised how short the forward veins were. But I know these are great roasters. On a side note, I want to go have coffee at that shop, that guy knows his stuff I think. Ringo Edited by Ringo on 03/26/2010 6:06 AM |
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jerry43 |
Posted on 03/26/2010 7:47 AM
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![]() 1/4 Pounder ![]() Posts: 73 Joined: January 14, 2010 Location: Virginia |
Ever try welding thin stainless steel? Stainless conducts heat better than mild steel. You have distortion to deal with and the risk of burn through. Add in the the tiny space welding in the drum and it is no piece of cake. |
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DrJimmy |
Posted on 03/26/2010 8:16 AM
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![]() Newbie ![]() Posts: 25 Joined: August 28, 2009 Location: Holly Springs, NC |
Yep, agree Jerry. Not the easiest. My point is if these are "mass produced" as it says in the photo album, this is not what I would have expected.
JIM
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Ringo |
Posted on 03/26/2010 8:29 AM
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![]() Pounder ![]() Posts: 472 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Jerry, funny you said that today I am welding thin stainless today, what a pain. Welding on my trier, and the big funnel to load beans. Ringo |
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Ringo |
Posted on 03/30/2010 8:21 PM
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![]() Pounder ![]() Posts: 472 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Did the trial roast tonight, I feel like it went good. The roast went way too fast. 1C at 6:30 I had a FC+ at 9 min with some tipping. I just have to learn to slow this down, but I feel like I have plenty of heat, plenty of air.
Edited by Ringo on 03/30/2010 8:27 PM |
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John Despres |
Posted on 03/30/2010 8:56 PM
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![]() Administrator ![]() Posts: 2221 Joined: January 09, 2008 Location: West Michigan |
Sounds like you built a monster that needs taming! Congratulations! John Respect the bean.
John Despres Fresh Roast 8, Gene Cafe, JYTT 1k, Quest M3, Mazzer Mini, Technivorm, various size presses and many more brewers. |
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jerry43 |
Posted on 03/31/2010 8:50 AM
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![]() 1/4 Pounder ![]() Posts: 73 Joined: January 14, 2010 Location: Virginia |
How long did it take to get the roaster up to temp before you loaded the beans?
Edited by jerry43 on 03/31/2010 8:52 AM |
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Ringo |
Posted on 03/31/2010 12:18 PM
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![]() Pounder ![]() Posts: 472 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
I did not time it but it was at least 15 min. I feel like it will be a good roaster but it would be a little better if the drum was thinner. Felt like I was pushing around a bus. Will not let me post any pictures, must be a limit on how many you can post.
Edited by Ringo on 03/31/2010 12:19 PM |
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RoasterRob |
Posted on 03/31/2010 12:56 PM
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![]() 1/2 Pounder ![]() Posts: 330 Joined: March 03, 2007 Location: ChCh NZ |
Quote jerry43 wrote: Ever try welding thin stainless steel? Stainless conducts heat better than mild steel. You have distortion to deal with and the risk of burn through. Add in the the tiny space welding in the drum and it is no piece of cake. Hi Jerry Actually mild steel conducts heat better than stainless, which is why mild steel is preferred for the drum on a roaster, cast iron even more so. The distortion is due to a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than mild steel. Best way to weld SS is to have a near perfect fit up and weld without the addition of filler wire (autogenous). Rob VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
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Warrior372 |
Posted on 03/31/2010 4:36 PM
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![]() Newbie ![]() Posts: 9 Joined: March 25, 2010 Location: Chicago, IL |
What are some good online sources for cast iron tube to utilize in making a roasting chamber? All I can find is solid rod. |
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Ringo |
Posted on 03/31/2010 5:27 PM
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![]() Pounder ![]() Posts: 472 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Just to give you a heads up, Cast is very hard to work. Hard to weld and grind. |
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Warrior372 |
Posted on 03/31/2010 6:10 PM
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![]() Newbie ![]() Posts: 9 Joined: March 25, 2010 Location: Chicago, IL |
I am going to have to go to a welder regardless of what type of metal I use. Would there be a huge difference in welding cost too? |
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Ringo |
Posted on 03/31/2010 7:16 PM
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![]() Pounder ![]() Posts: 472 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Not an expert with cast, but good many good welders were I work and only one will attempt cast. He welds then beats it with a hammer does this over and over. So takes longer and a more skilled welder. One possible place to get a drum is a cast iron cooking pot, If you use one just plan on screewing and riviting most things to it. |
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Warrior372 |
Posted on 03/31/2010 7:56 PM
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![]() Newbie ![]() Posts: 9 Joined: March 25, 2010 Location: Chicago, IL |
Sounds like it might just be easier to stick with stainless :) . |
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Ringo |
Posted on 03/31/2010 8:50 PM
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![]() Pounder ![]() Posts: 472 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Look at stock pots, looks like a nice drum. |
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RoasterRob |
Posted on 04/01/2010 1:37 AM
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![]() 1/2 Pounder ![]() Posts: 330 Joined: March 03, 2007 Location: ChCh NZ |
I wouldn't bother with cast iron. Get a drum rolled in 2mm thick mild steel. Easier to work with than cast by far, easier than SS and conducts heat much better. Most commercial drum roasters use mild steel, none that I know of use SS and I doubt any use cast iron any more. For my drum roaster project (not complete) I had one rolled in 2mm MS. Rob VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
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