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 Building a drum roaster
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| ginny |
Posted on 05/24/2010 6:14 PM
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 Founder  Posts: 3476 Joined: October 24, 2005 |
40 PVC 8" will work a little better then you 1/2 or 3/4"; more beans will stick to the sides for you. please send pictures!! ginny  |
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| Ringo |
Posted on 05/24/2010 8:33 PM
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 Pounder  Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
I was having trouble posting pictures. Seedling got me working. This is the bottom of the bean cooler, works great. I took a 15" stock pot,screewed a moter to the bottom used a 1/2 shaft to stir the beans, I cut holes in the bottom for air flow, simple and cheap.
Ringo attached the following image:
Edited by Ringo on 05/24/2010 8:37 PM |
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| Ringo |
Posted on 05/24/2010 8:41 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
This is the air flow for the bean cooler. I know the next question will be, Why a big fan? The fan is from a scraped house furnace, any furnace company has tons of them you should be able to get them for $30 or less. just keep in mind this is the "Junk yard roaster"
Ringo attached the following image:
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| Ringo |
Posted on 05/24/2010 8:43 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Almost done here, just a little wiring left, behind is the chaf cyclone.
Ringo attached the following image:
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| Ringo |
Posted on 05/24/2010 8:46 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Just the power panel, two 20 year old honeywell plc's just used to read temps and give ramp set points.
Ringo attached the following image:
Edited by Ringo on 05/24/2010 8:48 PM |
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| Ringo |
Posted on 05/24/2010 8:49 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
The business end.
Ringo attached the following image:
Edited by Ringo on 05/24/2010 8:52 PM |
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| Ringo |
Posted on 05/24/2010 9:04 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Dja- its a little hard for me to say if my drum is too thick, I only have roasted twice but I think its going to work nice. The last roast I did 2.5 pounds, droped at 260 deg. It drop to 180 deg. I think its a little high, so if you have a lot of steel it hold a lot of energy so you have to drop at a lower setting. Reaction will be a little slower, but I think the stability of more steel is better. When I get 100 roast down the line my opinion may change but I can always remove steel but its hard to add steel back. So my answer is yes, I think scedule 40 would be great. |
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| Ringo |
Posted on 05/24/2010 9:09 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
One more, Shows the bean cooler in action.
Ringo attached the following image:
Edited by Ringo on 05/24/2010 9:11 PM |
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| muddyfeet |
Posted on 05/25/2010 5:23 AM
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 Newbie  Posts: 47 Joined: November 16, 2009 |
Nice Job, Ringo! I love your modeling of large, industrial elements in a smaller design. Your bean cooler looks like i could be on the front-end of an 80lb roaster, but it's in a home-roaster scale. |
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| Ringo |
Posted on 05/25/2010 7:53 AM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Thanks, my problem now is my new toy is down. After the last roast I found a small gas leak on a burner I over tighten it and it snapped. So after building for 5 months the thing is sitting here, parts should be here in couple of days. Beans will be burning soon
All you need in life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is sure. Mark Twain
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| seedlings |
Posted on 05/25/2010 9:28 AM
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 1 1/2 Pounder  Posts: 4226 Joined: June 27, 2007 |
Wowser! I want one. CHAD Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500 Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover |
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| DavidG |
Posted on 05/25/2010 10:15 PM
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 1/2 Pounder  Posts: 218 Joined: April 20, 2009 |
Quote Ringo wrote: I was having trouble posting pictures. Seedling got me working. This is the bottom of the bean cooler, works great. I took a 15" stock pot,screewed a moter to the bottom used a 1/2 shaft to stir the beans, I cut holes in the bottom for air flow, simple and cheap. Ringo, I would love to know what motor you used for the cooler. I am trying to use ice cream maker motors, but the rpms are over 42. I am a little concerned that the beans will not just be cooled but instead spun right out of the cooler. Does your cooler run slower than 30 rpm? I am hesitant to get into gears (don't have this skill set).... Also, I am trying router control on a universal motor. I too am an Ohioan (Columbus area). If your motor source is local to us, that would be even better. BTW, the pics are GREAT. FANTASTIC work. David europiccola | yama + coryrod | chemex | AP | clever
wbp1 | wepp1 | bm/hg | co hybrid (still coming soon...) |
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| muddyfeet |
Posted on 05/25/2010 10:30 PM
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Newbie Posts: 47 Joined: November 16, 2009 |
Quote Ringo Wrote: "My roaster started when I walked past a scrap pile and saw a piece of pipe on the ground, I built around it." I know that feeling! |
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| Ringo |
Posted on 05/26/2010 4:52 AM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
The moter is a Bodine gear moter 110 volt, 1/8 hp, 18 rpm. I got it off ebay, I think $35. Between ebay and Mcmaster Carr lots of parts were ordered. Seem to be good amount of bodines on ebay. I think 42 RPM would be fine just would need more hp but I the the motor on an ice cream cooler would work. Good luck with your build. Your Ice cream cooler, I almost used one when I built my roaster, The motor to turn the drum, the stainless steel drum for the roaster drum, stainless steel shaft, lots of parts.
Edited by Ringo on 05/26/2010 8:08 PM All you need in life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is sure. Mark Twain
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| Ringo |
Posted on 05/26/2010 8:13 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Seems to be interest in the bean cooler so I will post an in process picture.
Ringo attached the following image:
All you need in life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is sure. Mark Twain
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| Ringo |
Posted on 05/28/2010 7:35 AM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
Time for an update, Did my third roast last night. I am still working on some old low quality beans I bought for practice. This was the first roast were every worked, most of the bug have been worked out. Roasted 2.5 lb dropped beans into drum @ 248 deg they equalized at 175deg 10:30 1C started BT was 350 ET was 374 12:00 1 c ended 14:00 2C started BT was 413 ET was 396 15:30 2C ended BT was 435 ET was 403 Still not drinking what comes out of the roaster till all the junk beans are roasted, but I am happy this beast will roast. I believe with all the steel in the drum finding the best drop temp is going to be important. In the 2nd roast I dropped at 260 deg and only had a few divots, this roast dropping @ 248 I had more divots in the beans. This is not logical, but I think I have to run the burners so hot to get the roast moving the environmental temps are too high. But I am very happy to go from building problems to roasting problems. All you need in life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is sure. Mark Twain
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| allenb |
Posted on 05/28/2010 9:34 AM
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 Administrator  Posts: 3655 Joined: February 23, 2010 |
Quote Ringo wrote: Time for an update, Did my third roast last night. I am still working on some old low quality beans I bought for practice. This was the first roast were every worked, most of the bug have been worked out. Roasted 2.5 lb dropped beans into drum @ 248 deg they equalized at 175deg 10:30 1C started BT was 350 ET was 374 12:00 1 c ended 14:00 2C started BT was 413 ET was 396 15:30 2C ended BT was 435 ET was 403 A couple of questions: Where is your ET TC located, in the upper part of the drum in the exhaust stream or outside the drum? Does your BT and ET temps read close to one another during warmup? (assuming ET probe is in the drum) Of concern is your ET being lower than BT after 1C. If your ET probe is inside the drum this ususally means you are either dropping your burner output to the point where the combustion air entering the drum is truly lower than BT or something is causing the ET probe to show eroneous readings. Sounds like your on the way to getting things working. Your drop in of 250F and equalize at 175F is almost spot-on what my 1 lb drum does (drop in 250 equalize at 170). Allen 1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
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| Ringo |
Posted on 05/28/2010 10:17 AM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
ET is at 12:00 on the drum, sticks inside the drum. BT is at 9 oclock with a downward angle. During warm up the BT runs 20 deg hotter than ET, I think its radiant heat off the drum.
All you need in life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is sure. Mark Twain
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| allenb |
Posted on 05/28/2010 8:31 PM
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Administrator Posts: 3655 Joined: February 23, 2010 |
Quote Ringo wrote: ET is at 12:00 on the drum, sticks inside the drum. BT is at 9 oclock with a downward angle. During warm up the BT runs 20 deg hotter than ET, I think its radiant heat off the drum. It would be a huge help if you could add an additional temp sensor just behind the drum (I'm assuming this is where your combustion air enters the drum) to be able to monitor the roasting air inlet temp. This temperature is vital to knowing if your inside drum ET is a valid number. Inside drum ET should not be below BT except during burner cycling or a major heat output correction to drop inlet temp. You also will probably want to play around with BT probe location (further in to the bean mass? The temp at C1 is lower than I've seen on most roasters although this is a relative temperature anyway since we can never get an exact "internal bean temp". You probably should be reading somewhere between 390 - 410F for C1. If you can't get it to improve it isn't the end of the world as long as it is consistent so you know where you're at. Hope this helps, Allen 1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
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| Ringo |
Posted on 05/28/2010 10:48 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
I agree that some of these readings are a little strange, and need some further investigation. The PID I am using will read and display two temps each so I will be able to add more spots. I suspect part of the problem may be I had to use a 1 ft long RTD, I may have 2 inchs in the beans, an RTD needs more emersion. I had bought two TC but I could not get them to read. These PID are so old I no longer have the books, I just need to play with it some more. I use RTD's at work so they were easy, just too long. My plan for the next few weeks is to just roast and enjoy my toy then I will start back in to refinements. Keep the sugjestions coming I need any help I can get. Thanks Ringo All you need in life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is sure. Mark Twain
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| Ringo |
Posted on 05/30/2010 9:06 AM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
A little more work on the roaster today, it turns out the long RTD's were giving me bad reading, they were too long. I got my TCs to work and I now believe I am reading good temps. I dropped at 266 Deg BT 278 ET Turnaround 159 Deg BT 225 ET 1C 374 Deg BT 377 ET 2C 425 Deg BT The roast went long, 18 min. So now I have to work on time management. All you need in life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is sure. Mark Twain
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| muddyfeet |
Posted on 05/30/2010 1:57 PM
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Newbie Posts: 47 Joined: November 16, 2009 |
I was curious about those temperatures, too. It sounds like you've remedied the problem! |
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| Ringo |
Posted on 06/01/2010 6:36 PM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
I did 4 2.5 pound roast this weekend, on one of the ethiopians I also roasted a batch in the Behmor. All coffees cupped well, the behmor roast had more fruit and more acid but the drum did a good job it had more body. I am starting to think I build a 2.5 to 3 pound roaster, with a 2.5 lb roast I have to run the gas almost wide open. Now I need to work on a profile for the drum the brings out the fruit. This is fun.
All you need in life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is sure. Mark Twain
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| allenb |
Posted on 06/02/2010 8:19 PM
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Administrator Posts: 3655 Joined: February 23, 2010 |
Sounds like you're getting to know your new roaster. Please post some time/temps if you get a chance. Its interesting you've noticed a difference between radiant and true drum. I've been playing around recently with the two methods and while I like both, they do produce different outcomes. Allen 1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
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| Ringo |
Posted on 06/03/2010 6:46 AM
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Pounder Posts: 474 Joined: January 14, 2010 |
I dropped at 266 BT 278 ET Turnaround @1:30 159 BT 225 ET 1c @ 10:30 374 BT 377 ET Pulled @ 13:00 399 BT 401 ET A City ++ roast, long way from any 2C. This is my usual roast, light. I think I need to spend more time after 300 deg, I just kind blow past that range, next roast will spend 2 min longer after 350 but before 1C. When I roast I have been hand logging every 30 sec so if you want more numbers I have them, I do not want to bore people with long list of temps. It will be a while to the next roast, I now have 20 pounds of roasted beans to burn through. The behmor was starting to feel like a job keeping up with beans for family and friends with the "Junk Yard Drum" I wish I could get more roast in. While I am practicing I plan on only doing 2.5 lb batches-learn that, then work on smaller batch runs. I want to hold down the variables as much as poossible. Edited by Ringo on 06/03/2010 7:14 AM All you need in life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is sure. Mark Twain
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