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Heat Element (dryer)
seedlings
Can you think of any reason this Whirlpool dryer heat element wouldn't work as an air roaster heater? I'm happy to wire a dedicated 240V outlet. The only thing I can think of is to be sure the coils don't vibrate and short out.

5600W

http://www.partselect.com/xq/aspx/Inv...urceCode=6

www.partselect.com/assets/partimages/373014_1_M.jpg

CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 04/13/2010 2:28 PM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
endlesscycles
With what device could you modulate power?
FYI: that is 19kBTU.
-Marshall Hance
Asheville, NC
Koffee Kosmo
A drier will bump & grind a lot more than a little air flow

In any case a little ceramic separator will do the job if you want to make sure

kk
I home roast and I like it. Designer of the KKTO
Roaster Build information
https://forum.homeroasters.org/forum/...ad_id=1142

https://docs.google.com/presentation/...lide=id.i0
Blog - http://koffeekosmo.blogspot.com/

Bezzera Strega, Mazzer Robur Grinder, Pullman Tamper Convex,
(KKTO) Turbo Oven Home Roaster.
seedlings

Quote

endlesscycles wrote:
With what device could you modulate power?
FYI: that is 19kBTU.


My hope was to use a 555 chip timer circuit on/offing an ssr or triac.

CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 04/13/2010 6:24 PM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
bvwelch
in theory it should work, the insulated BTA series triacs are available in higher amperage.
randytsuch

Quote

seedlings wrote:

Quote

endlesscycles wrote:
With what device could you modulate power?
FYI: that is 19kBTU.


My hope was to use a 555 chip timer circuit on/offing an ssr or triac.

CHAD


Why not a PID from ebay, and a 40A SSR?

I'm just wondering how that will work, quickly turning on and off a 23A heater element.

Randy
seedlings
I like your idea better, Randy. I might spend $30 more, but what will I do with the 30 hours of time I'll save buying one on eBay instead of diy B)

Quote

how that will work
is, I pray what it will do.

So, if I'm reading you all right, you can't think of any reason why this wouldn't work, if properly controlled.

CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 04/13/2010 6:52 PM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
bvwelch
I don't recall how Dan controlled his setup-- dig around and find his writeup or drop him a line. -bill
Unta
what sort of enclosure are you looking at using?
Sean Harrington
educate.
dja
what are you going to mount the element into?
you may also have to shorten the element to get the amount of heat that you will need to heat the amount of air that will be required to loft your beans.
Edited by dja on 04/13/2010 8:30 PM
I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
seedlings

Quote

Unta wrote:
what sort of enclosure are you looking at using?


I liked working with the hardibacker cement board, so that will be a primary material. Generally lo-tech. No welding ability/equipment here. The "design" will depend on the heat element configuration (and my Kirby motor), but will be a squarish hybrid of RoasterRob / Sivetz. Square because I can add a viewing glass. It will also vent to the outside somehow.

Below is a VERY general idea.

Still haven't decided on loading/unloading - if it will be a removable hopper or able to dump. Bah.. haven't thought much through. I'd like to do a variable batch from 0.5# to 2#.

Still, everything depends on the heat section. I've decided against propane.

CHAD
seedlings attached the following image:
13picforunta.jpg

Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
seedlings

Quote

dja wrote:
what are you going to mount the element into?
you may also have to shorten the element to get the amount of heat that you will need to heat the amount of air that will be required to loft your beans.


The coil won't be in a big space, but hopefully a space not much bigger than the coil itself.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
Unta
im very interested in seeing how this all works. I have an element from a duct heater. variable 10.8- 14.4KW(36875.800256976-49167.733675968 BTU)Im very interested in eventually building something in the 8- 12LB range. But havent spent much time thinking about it.looking forward to seeing how yours gets together CHAD! This element was available online for 75 dollars and includes 2 double pole 30amp breakers. Its a Rheem..The unit is 20" long x 10.5" the element is 10"x8"..anyone see a problem with it?http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid...0623395202Cheers!sean
Edited by seedlings on 04/14/2010 8:50 AM
Sean Harrington
educate.
seedlings

Quote

bvwelch wrote:
I don't recall how Dan controlled his setup-- dig around and find his writeup or drop him a line. -bill


Took me forever to find this, but there is great info in this thread, especially these 3 posts:

http://forum.homeroasters.org/forum/v...post_10089

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
allenb

Quote

seedlings wrote:
Can you think of any reason this Whirlpool dryer heat element wouldn't work as an air roaster heater? I'm happy to wire a dedicated 240V outlet. The only thing I can think of is to be sure the coils don't vibrate and short out.

5600W

http://www.partselect.com/xq/aspx/Inv...urceCode=6

www.partselect.com/assets/partimages/373014_1_M.jpg

CHAD


Chad,

My experience with elements like this that are designed for lower temperatures than we use in coffee roasting is the coils aren't tightly grouped and allow a lot of bypass around the coils which is fine for clothes dryers and duct heaters but when you try and achieve 500 F + it takes a really bright orange hot nichrome to get it done which can limit element life dramatically.

The master appliance heat blower element mentioned in previous posts works great and are easy to create designs around. Graingers prices are very high but you can get them for around $20.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/heat...sst=subset

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
bvwelch
Here are a couple of other links about Dan's roaster. I glanced thru and don't see much other than a mention of 'SSR', and a photo of what looks like a rather hefty one.

http://claycritters.com/coffee/dans_r...oaster.htm

http://forum.homeroasters.org/forum/v...ad_id=1087
seedlings
Allen, I'm glad this came up before I bought the element. I thought I could shorten the element if needed to up the heat. Also, do you think the 750F Master Appliance element would be a better choice than the 500F model? They're designed for 47 cfms. I might end up higher than that, but not sure.

CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 04/19/2010 8:04 AM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
endlesscycles
Dayton has some heat elements that might be worth the cost for the purposes here.
-Marshall Hance
Asheville, NC
allenb
If you're moving more than 30 cfm you're going to want to use the 18 amp "750 F" element. That's the one I used in my 1lb drum roaster but I had to add a couple of turns from a second element to reduce the amps down to 16 to allow me to use a standard 120v wall outlet.

Make sure you get the flexible mica material to wrap the element within your tube.

It would be good to see the elements Marshall has found by Dayton which could give you some more choices.

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
endlesscycles
Here's one good for at least 60 cfm:

http://www.drillspot.com/products/346...ements?s=1
-Marshall Hance
Asheville, NC
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