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Heat Gun...Max Capability?
JETROASTER

Quote

allenb wrote:

Quote

seedlings wrote:
Allen has a point! Including the studs in a production model would invite the lawyers. I myself am more prone to injury by childproof items.

CHAD


A point? Well, my kids use to call me a conehead.:|

Ok Scott, Chad just gave me an idea. If you include rubber childproof caps on the spikes I can work around them without killing myself but now I'm not sure if that will be safe for Chad.Roflmao


I think we're flirting with a choking hazard.;) I'll probably go with the Hillman push-in caps. -Scott
 
JETROASTER

Quote

allenb wrote:
For authentic Steampunk (or Klingon) you got to have dial gauges and lots of em! In fact I see a few places on the lower vessel without any at all? .B)


With all that extra space in the lower vessel, I thought I'd try a pressure gauge. This one will measure up to 15" WC.

http://www.graing...mp;sst=All
For 30 bucks, is worth a shot.
I have no idea if it will be of any value, but I'm hoping to get some indication of the 'minimum fluidization velocity'
http://en.wikiped...idized_bed

Does anyone think that info is of value for automation, or anything at all? If not, the gauge should look cool anyway. -Scott
 
dja
Big Roaster yes
I can see needing to know that the air pressure is if you were to have computer controls, you would need a pressure transducer connected and program it thru a couple of calibration roast so that as the beans lightened and the air pressure change your fan speed would track.
Small roaster not so much for roast control, but for Bling sure make em wonder what does it do.

DAvid
I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
 
allenb
I agree with David. A lower vessel static pressure gauge would be perfect. Definitely functionally useful and adds SP aesthetics. Now, if we could photoshop a nice victorian looking face plate to replace the one that comes with it...?
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
JETROASTER

Quote

allenb wrote:
Now, if we could photoshop a nice victorian looking face plate to replace the one that comes with it...?


Select a font, I'll make it happen. -Scott
 
allenb

Quote

freshbeans wrote:

Quote

allenb wrote:
Now, if we could photoshop a nice victorian looking face plate to replace the one that comes with it...?


Select a font, I'll make it happen. -Scott


This is very close to what was used on old 19th century steam gauges.
Its called "sawtooth wf ".
Not sure how you download from these sites.

http://www.fontpa...wtooth-wf/

Here's an example:

http://steamtract...seum-1.jpg
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
JETROASTER
That'll work. Got it into photoshop.
Now I'm unsure , but I think I may have myself wedged between Steam-Punk, and Cyber-Punk. It's only aesthetics, and I know there are no rules, so I'll keep pluggin'.
I'm considering brazing the larger spikes at their base against the stainless vessel. I'd prefer the lower temps of soldering, but I don't know of a solder that will grab the stainless.
Any metallugists out there? -Scott
 
seedlings
Might need an alchemist instead of a metallurgist for stainless, but I'm neither.

CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 02/08/2011 10:25 AM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
JETROASTER
Silver solder + white brazing flux creates a pretty good bond. Unfortunately, The spike melted. Turns out the core was a pretty soft alloy.
I'll find another solution for the spikes, but it is nice to know that a regular Joe can at least get something bonded to stainless......at 40.00 a troy ounce.
The stuff polishes up like 14k gold!! It will definitely be part of the HRO version. -Scott
 
coffeeroastersclub

Quote

freshbeans wrote:
Silver solder + white brazing flux creates a pretty good bond. Unfortunately, The spike melted. Turns out the core was a pretty soft alloy.
I'll find another solution for the spikes, but it is nice to know that a regular Joe can at least get something bonded to stainless......at 40.00 a troy ounce.
The stuff polishes up like 14k gold!! It will definitely be part of the HRO version. -Scott


What temp does the area where you are trying to bond the bronze to stainless? If that area stays under 500 degrees F you could try some JB Weld.
http://jbweld.net...jbweld.php

Len
Edited by coffeeroastersclub on 02/12/2011 1:46 AM
"If this is coffee, please bring me some tea but if this is tea, please bring me some coffee." ~Abraham Lincoln
 
JETROASTER

Quote

coffeeroastersclub wrote:
What temp does the area where you are trying to bond the bronze to stainless? If that area stays under 500 degrees F you could try some JB Weld.
http://jbweld.net...jbweld.php

Len


Hi Len,
That will work. I also discovered that scuffing the base of the spike helped. The spikes are secured with a screw thru the vessel, but they could spin a bit, so I thought I might secure them a bit more. I got stuck on the idea of how nice the silver solder looked, so I thought I'd try to get some to bleed out at the base of the spike .
(just for the aesthetic) Well, that didn't work.
So, a little scuff, a little thread lock, and a lock washer will likely do it.

I haven't given up completely on the silver yet, it just looks nice.:)

-Scott
 
JETROASTER
The current state of affairs; This is pretty much how it will look for now. 5 thermometers, 1 pressure gauge.
The things still unfinished are the sight glass, and a few unwanted pre-drills that will get filled with silver. A few other push in caps may get silvered, depending on how bad they leak. The spikes are part vanity, and part function. On the upper and lower vessels, the small spikes will get attached to the larger spikes to keep the housings together.
The vessels are jumbo cocktail shakers. (I'm not sure how obvious that was)
2 cords coming out of the back for heat and blower.
So far, beanflow and heat are checking out good. Somewhere in the next week or so, heat will hit the beans....fingers crossed.

Eventually, I'd like a pressure gauge for the RC, and I'd like to add a CO2 rapid cool option.

Once I've abused this thing a bit, I'll figure out what mistakes I've made, then get it drawn up with a creative commons license.
It required a drill, a Dremel, and misc hand tools. The brazing was completely a product of my vanity. ...Not needed for a functional roaster .
Not counting mistakes, it is about a 200.00$ build and roughly 12 hrs (not counting mistakes)

I'm close to figuring out video.....I think. Scott
JETROASTER attached the following image:
spike_front.jpg
 
JETROASTER
.....And the back
JETROASTER attached the following image:
spike_back.jpg
 
seedlings
You will be designing sets in the next Tim Burton film. Flippin' awesome.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
jm82792
I've been monkeying around with air and like it.
This thread has given me a lot of new ideas :)
Edited by jm82792 on 02/24/2011 1:04 AM
 
JETROASTER
Hi JM,
Here's another idea. This is a sideways video(sorry) thru a sight-glass, into the roast chamber.
One sight-glass for viewing, another sight-glass to shine in some light with a mini-mag light.
The sight-glass past the heat test using the torch. Strange that the cheapest one worked the best....2.99$ ea. Solid brass, glass lense.
I may change the angle to look down a bit more.
This is my first attempt at video. I found no easy(for me) way to rotate the video.:|
Live and learn. Anyway, here it goes.

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOyOLzhhtWw[/video]
Edited by JETROASTER on 02/25/2011 11:39 AM
 
seedlings
So it's REAL! Not a photoshop beast from your imagination!

I'd never thought of a viewing tube. Good idea!

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
Unta
whats the operating pressure?is the dial gauge working?
sean
Edited by Unta on 02/25/2011 2:00 PM
Sean Harrington
educate.
 
JETROASTER
.....Too low!! Currently 3" h2o. 2 from the machine + 1
from the beans.
I think I'll be adding some restriction at the RC inlet to bring the blower vessel up to 5" by itself.
I really don't want the beans to be any more than 20% of my back pressure.
I not sure how much the exhaust system will add, but I'll deal with that very soon.
...Actually, let me edit that thought. I might just as well back pressure the motor vessel up to 20". If I still maintain the 40 cfm I need, it will create a stable bed, and remain more consistent once the exhaust system is in place.
...Hope your snow is ending soon, Cheers,-Scott
Edited by JETROASTER on 02/25/2011 2:23 PM
 
jkoll42
Scott - DL the free moviemaker prog, load the movie and then it is one click to rotate. Resave the movie.

http://explore.li...r?os=other
-Jon
Honey badger 1k, Bunn LPG-2E, Technivorm, Cimbali Max Hybrid, Vibiemme Double Domo V3
 
Unta

Quote

freshbeans wrote:
.....Too low!! Currently 3" h2o. 2 from the machine + 1
from the beans.
I think I'll be adding some restriction at the RC inlet to bring the blower vessel up to 5" by itself.
I really don't want the beans to be any more than 20% of my back pressure.
I not sure how much the exhaust system will add, but I'll deal with that very soon.
...Actually, let me edit that thought. I might just as well back pressure the motor vessel up to 20". If I still maintain the 40 cfm I need, it will create a stable bed, and remain more consistent once the exhaust system is in place.
...Hope your snow is ending soon, Cheers,-Scott

Snow ending? if it weren't for an irritable disc and spasming muscles id be skiing fast every day..love the snow.
all your numbers mean very little to me but sound very technical, I was just curious. Was planning on giving a gauge a try, curious if it actually worked. Nice work on this machine. great concept.
thanks pal,
sean
P.S. at some point ill need to relate the CFM to the backpressure percentages..some point ,down the road...
Edited by Unta on 02/25/2011 3:45 PM
Sean Harrington
educate.
 
JETROASTER
....Get the gauge! I'm just starting to get a grip on what it's telling me, but I certainly wish I'd done it sooner. More coming soon!

Just one of the things I like about HRO, it really has re-inspired me to dig a bit deeper and reach a bit further.
Good luck getting back to the slopes. -Scott

J, thanks for the video tip:) .....another learning curve.
Edited by JETROASTER on 02/25/2011 4:01 PM
 
JETROASTER
A couple quick vids. I didn't like the previous set-up. Operating pressure was just over 3", with the beans counting for a third of that.(At full airflow) At lower settings, the plume became unstable.
I drove up the operating pressure by adding a perf plate below the beans. Initially there was 15" back-pressure. That was more than I wanted, so I drilled a few more holes and brought it down to 10"+ 1" back pressure from the beans, bringing it up nto 11" at full airflow.
With the added pressure, airflow across the heat-source will be steady, and the bean mass has a nice steady flow up thru the center. It also maintains a steady plume at lower speed settings.

Here's a chart from a similar (but larger) motor. The point is; adding a little back pressure does not effect cfm very much. In this range of 4" to 10", the plume doesn't change much...other than stability.
I'm just removing some of the 'sponginess'.
http://www.ametek...rd_ID=6745....Heat comes next.
I'll try to improve the video quality as well.
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJiyG2__b2o[/video]

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjX1ucd8jA8[/video]
Edited by JETROASTER on 02/28/2011 3:41 PM
 
seedlings
I'm also interested to see how the figures change as the beans dry out and lighten up. Good work!

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
JETROASTER

Quote

seedlings wrote:
I'm also interested to see how the figures change as the beans dry out and lighten up. Good work!

CHAD


Thanks!! For that indicator, I'll need a more sensative guage...above the perf/distributor. I need to protect it from the heat...Dan had recommended an extension tube for that purpose.
I think the bean mass is offering 1-2" of back pressure, so measuring the drop from moisture loss will be a trick for sure.
....We'll see. -Scott
 
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