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Heat Gun...Max Capability?
"I would go an additional step of unwrapping the coil off the form, stretching slightly just enough to allow re-wrapping onto the form covering the remaining 3 slots."

Thanks Allen. I think I will....Better energy transfer probably equals longer coil life.
So far, the glow is still orange. I may take the gamble and snip 1 more. I really want a quick BT climb up to 250-300. I don't know what the amp draw is yet, but after 10 minutes, the plug was barely warm. I think there is still room to play.
Thanks again, -Scott
As some may have suspected, proper function of this device depends on the Flux Capacitor.:)
After removing roughly 5" of nichrome, temps are looking good...the Flux Capacitor works. I still have no idea how many gigiwatts it uses, but I will endeavor to find out.
For future builds, I will likely leave a bit more length to facilitate getting an exit temp reading. Barely visible are the leads to the heater (lower part of photo)
Here's a shot of the whole assy.
Next post will be the dissected view. - Scott
JETROASTER attached the following image:
a cracker jack job done here Mr. Williams. Lots of good stuff going on here..
Sean Harrington
Neat :)
To quote Cypress Hill, this build is "Insane in the membrain"


Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
Thanks!! Here's a breakdown. I'll get some other info up after my flight. -Scott
JETROASTER attached the following image:
The Flux Capacitor breakdown;
Starting from the left.
1) Yoke; A 1-1/2" lavatory drain...tail cut off, and notched to accommodate the cross pattern of the heat element.
This piece passes thru all the components, acts as the central yoke, as well as the hot air inlet.
2) Lower RC; The lid of a cocktail shaker, inverted,with the strainer knocked out. In the picture, part of the neck is cut away. That cut is not needed, and impeded a good temp reading at that point. So, this piece needs no cutting, the strainer gets knocked out, and 1 hole drilled to accommodate a thermometer. The strainer will become the distributor/perf. Spikes are optional!
3) The Collar; This piece is the upper lid from a smaller cocktail shaker, with a 1-3/4" cutout thru the center. It serves as a bushing between the upper furnace housing and the lower RC, providing greater stability as they get tightened together.(It's a giant washer)
4) Upper Furnace Housing ; Once again, the lid of a jumbo cocktail shaker, with the strainer knocked out. (the welds popped apart with 1 hit)
5) Heat Liner; A scavenged travel mug. Plastic liner removed, and the bottom knocked out. The cheap ones have a plastic base that pops right out...leaving a 1/8" flange....perfect to be captured by the anchor nut, and secure all 6 components together...just like installing a sink drain.
There are about a dozen 1/2" cuts throughout the heat liner.(thin dremel wheel) These provide some additional cooling for the liner. There are also 2, 1/32" holes drilled opposite each other, near the bottom of the liner. These serve as anchor points for the heat coil.
6) Anchor Nut; The very same nut that would be used for installing the drain into a sink .
At the outer flange of the nut, 2 notches are filed into the flange, opposite each other, to provide a grip for tightening .
7) Heating Element, about 5" of nichrome removed, stretched and re-wrapped.
[video] watch?v=ZevHcnygJbo[/video]
One more shot before moving onto the blower section. Does any of this make sense?
JETROASTER attached the following image:
Yep, mostly makes sense to me.

I'm just not sure how the anchor nut is placed.

Does it go up inside the element liner? Or around the element liner?


greencardigan wrote:

I'm just not sure how the anchor nut is placed.

Does it go up inside the element liner? Or around the element liner?

All the way up inside...prior to installing the heat element. I used long-handled needle-nose pliers to tighten the nut. -Scott
JETROASTER attached the following image:
Here's a shot of the drain fitting as it became the yoke. 1 cut to remove the bottom, then 4 small notches with a hacksaw or file. ...Just enough to keep the heat element from shifting around.
I hope ths part makes sense...I'm moving on to the blower. -Scott
JETROASTER attached the following image:
This is the top down view into the blower housing.

1)Barrier blocks (2ea.) One on each side of the housing, positioned just above the blower.
These serve as electrical junction blocks, and anchor the blower in place.
2) Blower. 3", single-stage, flow-thru. 4 amps.
( the cross-bar over the blower will be edited out)
3) Electrical connectors. 1/2", 45?, (2ea). One for the blower, one for heat. I drilled the holes with a step-bit.
4) Wiring to the heat coil.

On the left, you can see the pressure gauge.

Next, it will be disassembled, edited, and put back together.
The 3" blower is harder to track down than I thought. On the Open-Source thread, I'll include a description of some handvacs that use this blower .....they're out there.
( I can order them in cases of 6) -Scott
JETROASTER attached the following image:
The Update; The MH-1 is at it's new home. I ran 2 new circuits to deal with it. I removed the exhaust restrictor. It was clogging with chaff, and it just wasn't needed. I still need a proper exhaust out of the building, but time is always the problem.
With warm weather here, it will do full-city in 10 minutes. The blower runs at 75% to start the roast, then down to about 60% at the end.
I start with 8" pressure, and end with 6.25" to maintain the same fluidization.....more dramatic than I expected.
It has zero heat control. I unplug the heat for cool down. The natural profile is very nice, but I can keep the blower speed up to stretch the load.
Inlet temp seems to be 600dg, But I don't have a good direct reading.

I've started prepping components for the HRO version!

Thanks all for the tips and expertise. -Scott
JETROASTER attached the following image:
Well done, Scott! What batch size does it like?

Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
Thanks! So far I've been doing #1. I think #1.25 will work as well.
I'll be installing a small spherical baffle just above the plume. I get a few renegade beans that escape.
Once that's done, I could probably handle #1.5.....until winter comes. -Scott

....Trying to figure this thing out. It says 3 wire plug. It also says '7amps @ 220'.
Is it 220v or did someone slip me decaf? Thanks, -Scott

JETROASTER attached the following image:

Page 4... has a different type plug for 220V?

Edited by seedlings on 06/09/2011 11:35 AM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
It looks like there are some assorted plug adaptors, but I still don't understand 220v with only 3 least not so as to make code.

It's not anything I need right away, it just seemed odd. -Scott

When you say " 3-wire" 220v line, I would assume that you have 2 insulated copper wires and 1 bare copper wire. A "4-wire" 220v line would have 3 insulated copper conductors and 1 bare copper conductor. In a 3-wire 220v line, the two insulated wires each carry power to the appliance. These should be coloured black and red. This type of wire would be used to power for example an electric water heater. Because a 220v load does not need a neutral (white) wire to work, only 2 conductor wires are used with this application. A 4-wire 220v line is used for appliances such as stoves and clothes dryers. A 4-wire line has 2 insulated power wires (red and black), one neutral wire (white) and a bare ground wire. An appliance such as a clothes dryer actually has a mix of 220v and 110v circuits. Although the 220v circuit doesn't need a neutral wire to work, the 110v circuit does need the neutral (white) wire. This is why on some appliances a "3-wire" is all that's needed and for other appliances a "4-wire" is required. As far as converting this arrangement, a new "4-wire" should be installed from the panel replacing the "3-wire" arrangment. Consulting a licensed electrician for this highly recommended.

As copied from do it your self .com's forumns Its more than you asked for, but I thought it was good over all answer . By no means do I think you can't handle it scott, i just verbatim copied it for everyone's education, especially mine.. :) ...

Edited by Unta on 06/14/2011 12:30 PM
Sean Harrington
Yeah, that's my understanding of it. That's why I was surprised.
Maybe this thing is for markets outside the U.S.

Anyway....good to see you back around!! Thanks,Scott
I think you will find that in the USA the neutral (white) and ground (bare)
are connected together at the main distribution box. Therefore, they are
at the same potential. Most large USA appliances use 120 VAC (white-to-black, or white-to-red) for control and signal lights and 220 (red-to-black) for heating or large motors..220 VAC in the USA may be either 3 or 4 wire.
4-wire simply includes both a neutral and ground wire.
Edited by oldgearhead on 06/14/2011 5:35 PM
No oil on my beans...
Thanks folks. That whole thing about common and ground still confuses me, but I'll get through it !!

This version of the MH-1 has been dubbed "Spike" . Spike will be going to "Burning Man"
in August. ....I'm not going, but Spike is.
So, I installed a baffle in the RC to stop runaway beans, and I'll be replacing one sight-glass that did not hold up as advertised.
It will get used as much as possible before the trip, that should work out any remaining bugs. I'll post a map of the location. If anyone has plans of attending, my friend Vinny will be cranking out the beans. -Scott
JETROASTER attached the following image:
Thats fantastic, should be a hit in the desert. Glad to have a little time to play again, hopefully more on the way...
Sean Harrington
...I saw a couple questions on some other threads . Rather than schmuckin' up all the threads, I'll do it here.

One was about cooling in the RC (Allen) I did a 2.5 minute cool-down to 150F this AM. This thing has very little thermal mass.
Another question was about finding a cocktail shaker for an RC. (Green Cardigan) ...the link is on this thread...


The diameter at the base is 5"

This vessel is good for 1#. I tried 1.25# ...even with the baffle, I had beans trying to escape by the time I got to 1st C.

I shot video of a casual cool-down (3 min). I'll post that at some point. -Scott
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