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High temp sealant
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SteveN |
Posted on 03/01/2011 2:18 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 127 Joined: March 16, 2010 |
Just an FYI. I've been using SBI red high temp silicone for sealing my roaster. It's rated up to about 650F. I've noticed it breaking down in some areas of my roaster. I just found a high temp sealant "stove and furnace cement" that comes in a tube (also by SBI) and rated to 2100F. I'll be trying it out. I bought it at a TSC store (farm equipment and supply). It looks like it should be safe as it's a silicate/ceramic compound and is supposed to bond metals and firebrick. Here's a description I found here (http://www.drolet...empro-1600) under accessories/maintenance products: "Dries to seal cracks and joints to prevent smoke or air leaks. SBI Stove & Furnace Cement may be used in stoves, furnaces, boilers, fireplaces (all fuels), combustion chambers, firedoors, flue and chimney joints, brick linings, gasketing." |
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Koffee Kosmo |
Posted on 03/01/2011 4:29 PM
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Administrator Posts: 1620 Joined: December 31, 2008 |
I use the red high temp sealant on my roaster Also try the sealant that has copper in it KK I home roast and I like it. Designer of the KKTO
Roaster Build information https://homeroast...ad_id=1142 https://docs.goog...lide=id.i0 Blog - http://koffeekosm...gspot.com/ Bezzera Strega, Mazzer Robur Grinder, Pullman Tamper Convex, (KKTO) Turbo Oven Home Roaster. |
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seedlings |
Posted on 03/01/2011 7:17 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 4226 Joined: June 27, 2007 |
I wouldn't use the fireplace adhesive. Could you post a picture of the problem? CHAD Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500 Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover |
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SteveN |
Posted on 03/01/2011 7:50 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 127 Joined: March 16, 2010 |
The silicone is just crumbling in some areas. If I posted a pic then you would just see areas devoid of silicone because it has fallen off. Why wouldn't you use the cement? |
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Unta |
Posted on 03/01/2011 9:55 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 788 Joined: January 26, 2010 |
Whats your fear with the refractory cement CHAD? sean Sean Harrington
educate. |
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coffeeroastersclub |
Posted on 03/02/2011 2:23 AM
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Pounder Posts: 535 Joined: May 26, 2009 |
Quote SteveN wrote: The silicone is just crumbling in some areas. If I posted a pic then you would just see areas devoid of silicone because it has fallen off. Why wouldn't you use the cement? Can you please post a picture? I think it is important that we see where you are using the sealant. (i.e. interior? exterior?) If the sealant were to burn (like it seems to have), would there have been any contact of the vapors to your beans as they were roasting? :( Len "If this is coffee, please bring me some tea but if this is tea, please bring me some coffee." ~Abraham Lincoln
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SteveN |
Posted on 03/02/2011 6:04 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 127 Joined: March 16, 2010 |
This is a pic from the build thread. I used silicone to fill some holes where the element is. Some of the ones along the top were just gone and a red dust was in a pile on the outside. Some likely went through the roaster but I expect it's pretty inert and just went out with the chaff. I don't think this stuff 'burns'. I've filled these back in last week with the red silicone (looks the same now as in the picture) as a temporary measure but gearing up to update this roaster to its 2.0 version with a vertical (shorter) HC, new perf plate, and other updates. |
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seedlings |
Posted on 03/02/2011 7:28 AM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 4226 Joined: June 27, 2007 |
Quote Unta wrote: Whats your fear with the refractory cement CHAD? sean After looking at the MSDS closely, maybe it's not bad. I suppose if it's designed to hold fireplace items together, then the assumption is that those items will get hot, and people in the house might breathe the fumes... and all this is not noted as bad on the safety sheet, so what do I know? :| CHAD Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500 Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover |
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coffeeroastersclub |
Posted on 03/02/2011 7:45 PM
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Pounder Posts: 535 Joined: May 26, 2009 |
Quote SteveN wrote: This is a pic from the build thread. I used silicone to fill some holes where the element is. Some of the ones along the top were just gone and a red dust was in a pile on the outside. Some likely went through the roaster but I expect it's pretty inert and just went out with the chaff. I don't think this stuff 'burns'. I've filled these back in last week with the red silicone (looks the same now as in the picture) as a temporary measure but gearing up to update this roaster to its 2.0 version with a vertical (shorter) HC, new perf plate, and other updates. After seeing your setup I am with Seedlings about not using the refractory cement. I have some experience in using this type of cement on metal high temp gasification chambers; after a short time it just flakes off in chunks. Does not stick well at all. I have found, however, that the following sealant designed for pellet stove exhaust connections sticks well and stays put over time, and it has a heat rating of 800 degrees F: http://heating-an...18502.aspx Note that you can usually buy it in smaller tubes at your local Home Depot store. Len "If this is coffee, please bring me some tea but if this is tea, please bring me some coffee." ~Abraham Lincoln
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SteveN |
Posted on 03/02/2011 8:46 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 127 Joined: March 16, 2010 |
What temperatures was it being exposed to that it was breaking down? I wasn't necessarily thinking about a replacement for the silicone (since I'll be changing several things about the HC) but thanks for the info. I haven't seen that product before so I'll check and see if we have it in Canada. |
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seedlings |
Posted on 03/02/2011 9:23 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 4226 Joined: June 27, 2007 |
I use this. Says it's rated up to 600F, and I go over 600F every roast. http://homeroaste...post_26981 CHAD Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500 Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover |
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coffeeroastersclub |
Posted on 03/03/2011 1:52 PM
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Pounder Posts: 535 Joined: May 26, 2009 |
Quote SteveN wrote: What temperatures was it being exposed to that it was breaking down? I wasn't necessarily thinking about a replacement for the silicone (since I'll be changing several things about the HC) but thanks for the info. I haven't seen that product before so I'll check and see if we have it in Canada. It wasn't so much the temp it was exposed to, but the makeup of the sealant. It gets very hard and inflexible, and has a habit of cracking and falling off of the article trying to be bonded. In other words, it is not a good adhesive, unlinke silicone which is a good adhesive but has lower melting points. The adhesive I suggested has the best of both worlds; great adhesive and high melting point (800 degrees). Len "If this is coffee, please bring me some tea but if this is tea, please bring me some coffee." ~Abraham Lincoln
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Unta |
Posted on 03/04/2011 12:17 AM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 788 Joined: January 26, 2010 |
my first inkling with the refractory cement was the bond with the metal . I think it likely comes down to the expansion and contraction properties of each material. sean Edited by Unta on 03/04/2011 12:19 AM Sean Harrington
educate. |
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coffeeroastersclub |
Posted on 03/05/2011 8:37 PM
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Pounder Posts: 535 Joined: May 26, 2009 |
Quote Unta wrote: my first inkling with the refractory cement was the bond with the metal . I think it likely comes down to the expansion and contraction properties of each material. sean The final result is like pasting a very thin layer of concrete to metal. The concrete just gets brittle and de-adheres (a word?) from the metal. Len "If this is coffee, please bring me some tea but if this is tea, please bring me some coffee." ~Abraham Lincoln
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dja |
Posted on 03/07/2011 7:29 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 701 Joined: November 07, 2008 |
the mortor won't work Rutland says it won't stick to metal. this will http://heating-and-cooling.hardwarestore.com/98-580-stove-gaskets-and-cements/rutland-hi-temp-stove-and-gasket-cement-256040.aspx its also in the area of 1800 degrees and used for gluig metal to brick, should be safe didn't see a MSDS thou. One thing you can use is the ceramic exhaust wraps you wrap them on and wet them down when they get hot and dry out they seal together. Or you could use some ceramic fiber felt paper about a 1/4"thick cost is pretty reasonable, I got mine from seattle pottery. Skin over it. David I pour Iron and roast Coffee Beans
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette |
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greencardigan |
Posted on 03/07/2011 7:49 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1185 Joined: November 21, 2010 |
Has anyone else had issues with the red high temp silicone? I haven't noticed any break down yet. A few bits in my roaster cop the hot air immediatley after the elements. I'll have to keep an eye on it. Edited by greencardigan on 03/07/2011 7:58 PM |
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Koffee Kosmo |
Posted on 03/08/2011 1:27 AM
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Administrator Posts: 1620 Joined: December 31, 2008 |
Quote greencardigan wrote: Has anyone else had issues with the red high temp silicone? I haven't noticed any break down yet. A few bits in my roaster cop the hot air immediatley after the elements. I'll have to keep an eye on it. I use it on my roaster and it works well On the use description the say its good for oven doors KK I home roast and I like it. Designer of the KKTO
Roaster Build information https://homeroast...ad_id=1142 https://docs.goog...lide=id.i0 Blog - http://koffeekosm...gspot.com/ Bezzera Strega, Mazzer Robur Grinder, Pullman Tamper Convex, (KKTO) Turbo Oven Home Roaster. |
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