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 Dan's Direct-Flame Roaster
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| Dan |
Posted on 01/16/2012 9:13 AM
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 1 1/2 Pounder  Posts: 1662 Joined: October 24, 2005 |
After a two-month work-related hiatus, I'm back on the BFR. I added a beauty ring to the front opening. It looks good, but is practical. The most important reason was to dampen vibration; the front bowl wants to ring like a bell. The other reason is to cover the sharp edge; this will make roasting safer. I bent 3/8" aluminum rod into a circle (took two tries to get the diameter right because of spring back). After joining the ends with a tension pin I turned an angled surface to match the bowl's edge. It is held in place from the inside by eight #4 screws. Edited by Dan on 01/16/2012 9:13 AM |
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| seedlings |
Posted on 01/16/2012 10:18 AM
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 1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 4226 Joined: June 27, 2007 |
You never cease to amaze Dan! Super-nice touch. How the heck did you tap for #4 screws??? I'm dumfounded. CHAD Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500 Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover |
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| Dan |
Posted on 01/16/2012 11:08 AM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1662 Joined: October 24, 2005 |
VERY CAREFULLY! I use Tap Magic, a very good tapping fluid, which helps a great deal. Drill blind holes, begin the thread with a plug tap, and complete with a bottoming tap (just grind the tip off a regular plug tap). I just happened to have some #4 - 1/8" long round head aircraft screws. I tapped these holes by hand, but for #8 through 1/4" I use a cordless drill, saves bunches of time. There's no torque on the part, so these little screws should perform just fine.
Edited by Dan on 01/16/2012 11:11 AM |
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| JETROASTER |
Posted on 01/16/2012 1:01 PM
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 Administrator  Posts: 1780 Joined: March 06, 2010 |
Nice finish work...as always.:Clap: -Scott |
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| Dan |
Posted on 01/16/2012 1:08 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1662 Joined: October 24, 2005 |
Thanks. It's the business end, so I thought it deserved a little attention. |
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| mk1 |
Posted on 01/16/2012 8:57 PM
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 1/4 Pounder  Posts: 90 Joined: November 14, 2011 |
Dan, I don't see any screws. Are you sure? Very nice, Roast Strong! Mark |
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| Dan |
Posted on 01/16/2012 8:59 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1662 Joined: October 24, 2005 |
They are blind screws, installed from inside the drum. |
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| Dan |
Posted on 04/27/2012 9:10 AM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1662 Joined: October 24, 2005 |
I hope to get back on this project soon. First I need to finish a 5-gallon color blending mixer for work. Now that the weather has turned I'm looking forward to roasting some larger batches outside again. |
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| JETROASTER |
Posted on 04/27/2012 10:12 AM
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Administrator Posts: 1780 Joined: March 06, 2010 |
Any pics of the whole assy? -Scott |
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| Dan |
Posted on 04/27/2012 6:58 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1662 Joined: October 24, 2005 |
No, I'm not that far yet. I have some sub-assemblies done and most of the parts assembled, though. |
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| JETROASTER |
Posted on 04/28/2012 11:53 AM
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Administrator Posts: 1780 Joined: March 06, 2010 |
Upfront I have to say...I've never roasted an ounce with a drum. I'm accustomed to the immediacy of air roasting. As I skim thru some of the drum threads...there seems to be alot of lead and lag to be dealt with in terms of heat. Whether it's ET or thermal mass, there seems to be alot of anticipating involved. It seems to me...(the one that knows nothing) that this design would negate alot of that. True? False? or simply unknown yet? -Scott |
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| Dan |
Posted on 04/28/2012 12:29 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1662 Joined: October 24, 2005 |
Quite true, I believe. The thermal mass in most drum roasters, as you and a lot of people have noticed, is very high. That is, they take a long time to cool off, making adjustments difficult. Because the drum on my flame roaster is open on both ends and the drum itself is thin stainless, there is very little thermal mass. Another consideration is that heaters have a response time that can add to this problem. Here are tests I made many years ago. Note that gas drops VERY fast at first but does not go to zero because you have to keep it lit. Bare nichrome, which is what most hot-air roasters use, drops nearly as fast, but cools off even further, and this is without the added cooling benefit of a blower.  |
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| JackH |
Posted on 04/28/2012 12:44 PM
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 Administrator Posts: 1809 Joined: May 10, 2011 |
Dan, How do the larger commercial drum roasters deal with these lags? I am assuming they run on gas mostly. Just a case of knowing the reaction time and tuning off/on at the right time? Sorry to stray a bit from your original subject, but your chart had me thinking. |
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| Dan |
Posted on 04/28/2012 2:06 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1662 Joined: October 24, 2005 |
Jack, They must know when to adjust the heat up or down based on evidence, either data-logging or observation by a master roaster, or both. You don't burn very many expensive roasts before you figure out how to do it right each time. |
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| Dan |
Posted on 06/03/2012 4:32 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1662 Joined: October 24, 2005 |
I had a chance to work on the roaster recently. I have the 8 vanes installed inside the drum. I had to make a cardboard template first so I could get the curves and angled ends just right. I went with 8 so that there would be a more constant flow of beans over the flame. The next step is to install a hurricane shield on the rear opening. I want excess heat and chaff to exit out the rear, but I don't want a breeze coming in because it can snuff out the flame. If I'm lucky, I'll find a large colander. If not, then I'll have to fabricate something from perforated metal. |
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| Dan |
Posted on 06/15/2012 10:23 AM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1662 Joined: October 24, 2005 |
Here's the completed drum with vanes, hurricane, and drive hub. I was going to fabricate a hurricane from sheet metal, but decided to just use a collander instead. I removed the base and handles, and drill out all the holes to 1/2". It's a cludge, but it should work.  With the drum finished, I've move on to the cooling tray. It is made from two, 24" cake pans with their bottoms cut out except for a 1/2" lip all around. Perforated steel makes the new bottom. It has 5/32" holes. These three parts are bolted together. The agitator and its gearmotor will be installed above the tray, while the 20" cooling fan will be inserted into the bottom cake pan. This morning I worked on the little gate and chute that will be used to empty the tray.  |
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| Dan |
Posted on 06/16/2012 3:24 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1662 Joined: October 24, 2005 |
Finished up on the cooling tray gate and chute today. Also, pictures of the vanes, there are 8.  |
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| allenb |
Posted on 06/17/2012 10:12 PM
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 Administrator Posts: 3858 Joined: February 23, 2010 |
Very nice cooling tray! Love the dump gate design. I like the fact you're using more drum vanes than typical. Should create nice fluid bean movement. Allen 1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
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| Dan |
Posted on 06/18/2012 9:44 AM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1662 Joined: October 24, 2005 |
Thanks, Allen. The cooling tray is made from two cake pans. They come in many diameters, 2, 3, and 4" deep; often used for wedding cakes, so anyone could make one of these with some perf metal from our usual sources. I used two pans, but you only really need one. I used the second tray to house the fan blade and make it a little stiffer. These are 24" pans, very large, but so I could cool 5# very fast. Here are the patterns I used for the gate, chute, and vanes. |
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| JETROASTER |
Posted on 06/18/2012 2:35 PM
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Administrator Posts: 1780 Joined: March 06, 2010 |
Really like the cake pans! I've been messing around with spring-forms lately. ...cheap and versatile. Nice machine! -Scott |
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| Dan |
Posted on 06/23/2012 12:43 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1662 Joined: October 24, 2005 |
The best location for the dasher motor, which stirs the beans during cooling, is under the perf screen. However, on my unit, that's where the cooling fan resides, so mine hovers over the top. Luckily, I had one of those hardware store paint pigment motors. It has a nice domed cover that protects it from falling beans. Here's the pivot mechanism. From bottom left to top right they are: 1. Base, bolted to center of perf screen with three screws, acts as the lower bearing. 2. Rotor, two dasher arm at 180? onto which I'll attach the dasher blades or sweeps. The pin on the left is the axle, it also goes into a hole in the base. Note the groove milled in the top of the rotor. 3. Coupler, this connects to the gearmotor shaft. Two pins engage the groove in the rotor to turn it, while allowing for shaft misalignment. 4. Gearmotor, 30 rpm.  |
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| Dan |
Posted on 06/23/2012 1:50 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1662 Joined: October 24, 2005 |
Moving right along, here's the completed assembly. Note the oiling port on the side of the rotor.  |
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| allenb |
Posted on 06/24/2012 1:48 PM
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Administrator Posts: 3858 Joined: February 23, 2010 |
When I was working for a commercial roaster one of our least favorite chores was routine cleaning underneath the cooling tray and lube of the sweep arms gear motor. This required crawling inside the base and contorting to reach the lube fittings. Overhead mounting of the drive is ingenious! Nice design and if I ever need to build one it will be similar to what you've done. Allen 1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
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| Dan |
Posted on 06/29/2012 9:33 AM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1662 Joined: October 24, 2005 |
And here's the flip side of the cooler. I turned this image upside down since that would be its orientation on the machine. The fan was scavenged from an industrial three-speed fan with high quality parts and bronze bushings. The motor is 1/3 Hp, the blade 18". You can see the 1/4" bolt that will become the pivot so that the cooling tray can dump the load. The shrink-wrap wiring harness will go to the control box. The fan originally pushed the air the wrong way, away from the motor. The motor was not a reversible type. Of course reversing the blade does nothing, but I figured out a way! I took the motor apart and reversed the stator winding. I have it permanently wired to high speed. I also reversed the fan blade, but that's because it was assymetrical. Finally, I added a chaff protector to keep the motor from becoming clogged.  |
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| seedlings |
Posted on 06/29/2012 11:53 AM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 4226 Joined: June 27, 2007 |
Genius. See, I would have tried some cock-a-mimi gear mechanism on the cooling fan to drop rpms to the stir vanes in order to 'save' the 'hassle' of mounting a separate little motor. CHAD Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500 Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover |
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