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 Brewer to Roaster..blower question...
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| oldgearhead |
Posted on 07/26/2011 4:36 PM
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 1 1/2 Pounder  Posts: 1128 Joined: February 10, 2011 |
http://www.greenc.../index.php But they don't stay available for very long.. Edited by oldgearhead on 07/26/2011 4:37 PM No oil on my beans...
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| danw2002 |
Posted on 07/27/2011 11:01 AM
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 1/4 Pounder  Posts: 73 Joined: June 12, 2011 |
ok, found a source for a KBIC unit, now will my Kirby motor be ok on DC? any changes or just hook it up? can not really find anything on running an AC motor on DC other then car stuff...thx, i think on my roaster project, i really need to slow down and control the speed of the VC motor, as i have to much , and this should work nicely for the control that i need... Quote oldgearhead wrote: ...... My DC drive is a KBIC-120. Its about 4.5" x 3.5" x 1.25". It's max output is 90 VDC. KB makes units that go to 130 VDC, but they are bulkier and more expensive. A 'Universal' motor, sometimes refered to as AC/DC may be ran with either AC or DC. I think if your motor is less than 2 HP it's probably a 'Universal' motor. Dan Williams...WHAAAT!?!?!? I have NOT had enough coffee.....
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| dja |
Posted on 07/27/2011 4:21 PM
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 1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 701 Joined: November 07, 2008 |
if your motor has brushes it will run it fine. make sure that you install it so that it can get some air flow across it to keep it cool. and is the hp Resistor big enough for your motor.
I pour Iron and roast Coffee Beans
 If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette |
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| seedlings |
Posted on 07/27/2011 10:01 PM
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 1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 4226 Joined: June 27, 2007 |
Kirby has brushes AND a heatslinger on the shaft to keep the heat off the motor. CHAD Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500 Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover |
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| dja |
Posted on 07/27/2011 10:41 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 701 Joined: November 07, 2008 |
I didn't make myself clear I guess, I was meanng that the speed controller needs some air movement across it because of the triac's
I pour Iron and roast Coffee Beans
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette |
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| danw2002 |
Posted on 07/27/2011 11:40 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 73 Joined: June 12, 2011 |
good, thanks. the motor cooling air will be separate(kirby has a motor cooling duct) and not be heated by the RC at all, off of that i can cool the board, also i build amps, so i have some very cool heat sinks i can and will add, wait till you see what i am doing for my filter for heating charge intake and mix for preheated intake air from RC, very cool...it was one of those 'ah ha' moments... Quote dja wrote: if your motor has brushes it will run it fine. make sure that you install it so that it can get some air flow across it to keep it cool. and is the hp Resistor big enough for your motor. Dan Williams...WHAAAT!?!?!? I have NOT had enough coffee.....
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| dja |
Posted on 07/28/2011 6:50 AM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 701 Joined: November 07, 2008 |
where did you locate your KBIC board at
I pour Iron and roast Coffee Beans
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette |
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| oldgearhead |
Posted on 07/28/2011 9:45 AM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1128 Joined: February 10, 2011 |
The one I have came from ebait. There are two local shops in my town that pull industrial contol equipment, I picked up the KB resistor from one of them. However, I haven't installed the KBIC-120 yet because it's just too hot! I have been running on the Staco varible-autotransformer. My voltages have been 60 down to 33. I am feeding the blower air into a 1.5" chrome sink-drain pipe that contains one 1.4KW heat gun element. This 'manifold' has 4 - .25" bleed holes in the 'cool' side. Most of my roasts have been 400 grams. I must say this thing works better than I ever thought it would. A lot of the credit belongs to Scott, Chad, David, and the other pioneers on this site..
oldgearhead attached the following image:
Edited by oldgearhead on 08/01/2011 12:39 PM No oil on my beans...
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| oldgearhead |
Posted on 08/10/2011 6:54 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1128 Joined: February 10, 2011 |
Quote seedlings wrote: I'm curious how much heat you'll be able to recycle in the PVC? What's its operating temp rating? From my experience small increases in inlet air temperature can be a big help roasting. As an example, when I roast in 40F weather and a strong wind blows in the garage I can watch the ET drop by 5 degrees. 100F to 150F inlet air temps would show fantastic results. CHAD Chad - I now have enough data to answer your question, as far as high ambient temps are concerned. I can run my inlet air temperature to 164F in 88F ambient. This is accomplished by mixing the 260F RC air with the ambient. It would be possible to recycle more hot air, but I believe my pipe melts at 176F. Therefore, I will need to wait for winter to do more....humm...currently I'm doing 400 grams to full-city in 13 minutes with 1305 watts (PID at 90% manual)...... Note melting point of: Grade 1 PVC = 140F CPVC = 200F Edited by oldgearhead on 08/10/2011 7:01 PM No oil on my beans...
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| seedlings |
Posted on 08/11/2011 8:39 AM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 4226 Joined: June 27, 2007 |
Inlet temps over 100F will be a tremendous power advantage! Well done! CHAD Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500 Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover |
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| nfcwest1 |
Posted on 08/13/2011 1:32 AM
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 Newbie  Posts: 28 Joined: August 12, 2011 |
I am new to this forum , all this discussion about fans/ blowers. Ametek makes a complete line of DC brushless low voltage varible speed blowers. Also I discussions on heating elements and air flow. Use a heating element from a electric furnace and cut it down. http://www.ametektip.com/index.phpoption=com_catalog&view=sections&which=catalogs&id=1&parentName=Blowersarible voltage blowers Edited by allenb on 08/13/2011 9:37 AM |
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| JETROASTER |
Posted on 08/13/2011 8:15 AM
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 Administrator  Posts: 1780 Joined: March 06, 2010 |
Hi nfc, Welcome to the forum. I was unable to make page clickable.Sorry. Anyway...lot's of other threads on blowers and heat, so have fun! -Scott |
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| nfcwest1 |
Posted on 08/13/2011 9:40 AM
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Newbie Posts: 28 Joined: August 12, 2011 |
I wish I took pictures of my heating element before I put mine together. I took my hint from Flow torch . I purchased a rewind heating unit kit for a electric furnace for $38 comes with the insulators wound it in a 2 " spiral along a frame 14" long then slip it a 3 " stainless tube over it the air goes both thru the middle and also around the sides of the element. |
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| allenb |
Posted on 08/13/2011 9:42 AM
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 Administrator Posts: 3859 Joined: February 23, 2010 |
Quote freshbeans wrote: Hi nfc, Welcome to the forum. I was unable to make page clickable.Sorry. Anyway...lot's of other threads on blowers and heat, so have fun! -Scott +1 on the welcome! Be sure and post often especially in regards to blowers and heat sources as we are always looking for new novel alternatives. As Scott mentioned, there's a whole lot covered in our forums as well and could take a while to scour it all. Scott, I tried every trick I could think of to make it clickable with no luck either. Allen 1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
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| oldgearhead |
Posted on 08/15/2011 11:08 AM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1128 Joined: February 10, 2011 |
Okay, I'm just about 100% with this project. I have installed the DC drive, and I would like to report that it is far superior (and less costly) than the Dayton router controller. I set up the drive as follows: Min speed = 20 VDC Max speed - 70 VDC HP = 1.0 (resistor) Current limit = 6 amp
oldgearhead attached the following image:
No oil on my beans...
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| JETROASTER |
Posted on 08/15/2011 11:46 AM
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Administrator Posts: 1780 Joined: March 06, 2010 |
Really nice machine! It'll probably run forever. ......So whatcha' makin' next?:) -Scott |
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| oldgearhead |
Posted on 08/26/2011 9:08 AM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1128 Joined: February 10, 2011 |
Quote freshbeans wrote: >snip< ......So whatcha' makin' next?:) -Scott Even though most of the work is done and its working better than my wildest dreams (at least through the 1st 20 pounds), there are some loose ends: 1) Chaff collection - its not bad, but I think I can make it better. 2) Air distribution - I have complete control of the 'spouting' at the start of every roast, but a lot of 'stacking' at the end. The roasts are fine, nice and even but I would like the preserve the 'fountain' and more control throuhout the roast. Should I try blocking some holes?
oldgearhead attached the following image:
Edited by oldgearhead on 08/26/2011 9:13 AM No oil on my beans...
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| JETROASTER |
Posted on 08/26/2011 9:21 AM
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Administrator Posts: 1780 Joined: March 06, 2010 |
You could try blocking some of the outer perimeter....focus thru the center, but I think blocking part of one side will likely work better. It will put a high velocity stream up the sidewall. ....It wastes a little heat, but late in the roast....it may be a plus! Good luck, ....or dial a perf? -Scott Edited by JETROASTER on 08/26/2011 9:22 AM |
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| dja |
Posted on 08/26/2011 10:12 AM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 701 Joined: November 07, 2008 |
Quote Even though most of the work is done and its working better than my wildest dreams (at least through the 1st 20 pounds), there are some loose ends: 1) Chaff collection - its not bad, but I think I can make it better. 2) Air distribution - I have complete control of the 'spouting' at the start of every roast, but a lot of 'stacking' at the end. The roasts are fine, nice and even but I would like the preserve the 'fountain' and more control throuhout the roast. Should I try blocking some holes? I had the same problem when I first started building my roaster and got it to where I could roast in it. The beans swell up and that makes them want to start grabbing onto the glass in tha 3.75" tube, then they start to bouncing. that was the main reason for me going to a larger tube. I did my first 2 pound roast yesterday in my roaster with the 5 inch tube, things were going great, I could control the plume with no prolbem untill the roast was almost done when the beans had expanded and the oils were just about to start poping out. Beans went to bouncing. tried to lower the air to stop it but no luck. Lower air flow just caused a lower bounce. now the tube had smoke and oil in it from the last roast but I don't think that had anything to do with the bouncing at the end of the roast. That two pounds of beans after they expanded and were flowing as they should of were taking up almost half of the 5 X 16 tube. And there in lies the problem I do belive, I may have to find the pref plate that works in the 6 inch tube and fire it up with two pounds in it and see if it does the same thing. I do know that the 5 inch tube with 1 3/4 pounds of beans in it I don't see near the amount of bouncing that I do with the 2 pounds. Sorry I didn't do any video, but you might check some of the first videos on my build an see if the action is the same towards the end of the roast. Thats my dollars worth. I pour Iron and roast Coffee Beans
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette |
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| JETROASTER |
Posted on 08/26/2011 11:24 AM
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Administrator Posts: 1780 Joined: March 06, 2010 |
You could be the first guy on the block with a variable distributor !!!! By turning clockwise, the outer perimeter holes become obstructed as the center holes become 'larger'. I'm full of ideas (read incomplete ideas) -Scott (my apologies for the brutal drawing)
JETROASTER attached the following image:
Edited by JETROASTER on 08/26/2011 11:25 AM |
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| oldgearhead |
Posted on 09/16/2011 3:14 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1128 Joined: February 10, 2011 |
Well I've decided the 'spouting-to-stacking' transition really doesn't show up until late into first crack and the beans appear to be evenly roasted, soI'm not going to mess with the holes at this time. The big news is I got the BMT probe installed and I tried it today. I installed it, away from the center and 3 inches buried in the greens at start up. I ran the temp controller at 100% for the entire 19 minutes of this 410 gram roast. Instead of turning down the air speed when first crack got going, I increased the speed to cool things down a bit. I've about decided not to bother with ramp/soak, and just use my recycle flap and the blower speed knob for most beans..
oldgearhead attached the following image:
Edited by oldgearhead on 09/16/2011 3:15 PM No oil on my beans...
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| JETROASTER |
Posted on 09/16/2011 3:56 PM
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Administrator Posts: 1780 Joined: March 06, 2010 |
How do you like the readings so far? -Scott |
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| oldgearhead |
Posted on 09/16/2011 6:40 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1128 Joined: February 10, 2011 |
Quote freshbeans wrote: How do you like the readings so far? -Scott I never did figure out why the ET readings from inside the sink drain pipe were so low (around 350F at end of 12-16 min full city roast). However, this BMT probe, located inside the RC read 400F when first crack started 10 minures into the roast. Yellow-tan (see above photo) at 374F is either a mistake in my recording or my early ROR too a bit steep. Next time I'll set the camera to record both the beans and the temperature, and have it fire every minute or do a video.. No oil on my beans...
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| dja |
Posted on 09/17/2011 6:14 AM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 701 Joined: November 07, 2008 |
OGH I see the roaster is alive and well, or anyway it sounds like it is. I wonder if I could get a sketch of how your latest chaff collection system is put together, I don't mind the smoke as I can blow that outside when its terrible cold in the winter, but that chaff just gets into everything if I do and uncontained roast in the house. DJA I pour Iron and roast Coffee Beans
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette |
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| allenb |
Posted on 09/17/2011 5:54 PM
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Administrator Posts: 3859 Joined: February 23, 2010 |
Quote oldgearhead wrote: Quote freshbeans wrote: How do you like the readings so far? -Scott I never did figure out why the ET readings from inside the sink drain pipe were so low (around 350F at end of 12-16 min full city roast). However, this BMT probe, located inside the RC read 400F when first crack started 10 minures into the roast. Yellow-tan (see above photo) at 374F is either a mistake in my recording or my early ROR too a bit steep. Next time I'll set the camera to record both the beans and the temperature, and have it fire every minute or do a video.. On my electric fired fluidbed if I move my ET thermocouple even slightly I can end up in an area with a much lower temperature compared to areas directly above the coils which will be a much higher than average temp. I had to find a sweet spot in between the two extremes to end up with a usable reading. It's hard to get a good number without having a large mixing zone between element and RC. If possible, shoot us a time/BT profile of the roast. Allen 1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
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