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Homeroasters - Home Roasting Coffee Community » DATALOGGERS - CONTROLLERS - RATE OF RISE METERS » Dataloggers/Controllers/Rate of Rise Meters

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Page 2 of 2: 12

ExTech with Artisan Roast Scope
JETROASTER	#26 Posted on 05/21/2011 2:05 PM
Administrator Posts: 1780 Joined: March 06, 2010	Quote tra757 wrote: Anyone get a 100mm fan yet? Tim Not yet, but it will happen. - Scott


tra757	#27 Posted on 05/22/2011 9:54 AM
Newbie Posts: 29 Joined: April 30, 2011	Quote randytsuch wrote: Not sure if this is obvious or not, but do you control/change airflow during the roast? You need more airflow at the beginning, when the beans are heavier. As the roast progresses, you can lower the airflow. This will allow you to roast a larger batch size with the same heater, the lower airflow will let you heater reach a higher temp. BTW, very cool project. Randy Oh yes. Full on for the first few minutes and as the beans dry, they don't need nearly as much air flow. I have three adjustments. Air flow, heater power and chimney damper. I don't think my heater is powerful enough, so if I drop too large of a charge, I wind up turning the airflow down very low near end of roast so I can get to 460F. Tim


tra757	#28 Posted on 05/25/2011 7:21 PM
Newbie Posts: 29 Joined: April 30, 2011	So this is a drawing of the air flow through my heating elements. Like I said earlier, I use two elements from the new air poppers you can find at Walmart for about $20. Those poppers are worthless for roasting, but pullout the elements, bypass the safety, drill a hole and they become reasonable elements for your DIY roaster.


allenb	#29 Posted on 05/25/2011 7:51 PM
Administrator Posts: 3650 Joined: February 23, 2010	Tim, you had mentioned you were getting too much resistance to air flow with the stacked donut style elements. They typically have an opening that can be enlarged substantially before running into the motor resistor nichrome coil. Not sure if you're using that coil or not. If not then you can increase the opening diameter even more. From what I remember, the main flow restriction is the small diameter 1.5" or so opening and not the perimeter area. The reason I mention this is that this style of element is very efficient and compact if you could make it work. If you do go for a snip to gain some wattage I would enlarge these openings and you might end up with a great performing element without having to go through the time and hassle of creating a new design. Allen 1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana


tra757	#30 Posted on 05/26/2011 6:05 AM
Newbie Posts: 29 Joined: April 30, 2011	The drawing is actually a design I did before I found the elements I am using. In the element I am using, I removed the motor resistor coil because I don't need it and it was in the way which allowed a larger hole in the center. While the design idea is a sound one, I think that the ones I am using are just too small to allow for enough airflow to lift much more than a 12 ounce charge. The design in the drawing is taller to allow for more air volume. I just need to order the wire and mica and build it up.


JETROASTER	#31 Posted on 05/26/2011 8:22 AM
Administrator Posts: 1780 Joined: March 06, 2010	I kinda like that heat source. The MH-1 is a bit tall...hmmmmm. -Scott


tra757	#32 Posted on 05/26/2011 6:03 PM
Newbie Posts: 29 Joined: April 30, 2011	Quote freshbeans wrote: I kinda like that heat source. The MH-1 is a bit tall...hmmmmm. -Scott Yeah, totally. I think it is the most efficient method of heating high CFM in a compact space. I am pretty sure I could get more heat out of my double stack by cutting a few turns out of the element so it stays hotter. Not so many as to burn the thing out, but keep it glowing when the airflow is high. Maybe I will try that this evening......

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