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03/04/2021 9:04 PM
I have been trying Scott Rao Hario V60 pourover this week. 1:17 and blooming with 2 parts water the first 45 seconds then splitting the rest into 2 pours. A little stirring is included. We like it.

03/04/2021 11:35 AM
My brew ratio is 1:17 (exactly 59.5 g/L). That's roughly 8.5g per 5-oz cup.

02/27/2021 9:29 AM
I'm looking to hire someone to teach/help me to find the best roast profile for the 3 types of coffee that grow on my farm in nicaragua. I live in LA, but but could go anywhere in so cal with my Behmor for a roasting lesson. Please contact me if you're in

02/17/2021 7:20 PM
When your wife thinks 30 grams for a 6 cup setting is strong, you learn to drink muddy water when you are making coffee for both of you.

02/17/2021 8:32 AM
I use a rule of thumb of 60 grams per liter. 8 cups (1 liter, 32 oz) = 60 grams, 6 cups (3/4 liter, 24 oz) = 45 grams. 10 cups = 75 grams 12 cups = 90 grams

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Sight Glass
BobbyS
Hi,


Noob here. Been roasting about a year or so with a turbo and then a bbq grill with a drum. I am going to start getting stuff together for a drum build this winter. Where the heck do people get the sight glass/windows they use. I saw where Boom used what looked like two different ones in his build.

Appreciate any help. ;)

Thanks,
BobbyS
Koffee Kosmo
I am of the opinion that any piece of glass will do the job
Heat will not be the problem

I do however like the idea of using the business end of magnifying glass
This will also give you a larger and clearer view of the roast

Having said that, you can also find a pair of round rim eye glasses in a thrift store use one and have one for a spare

KK
I home roast and I like it. Designer of the KKTO
Roaster Build information
https://forum.hom...ad_id=1142

https://docs.goog...lide=id.i0
Blog - http://koffeekosm...gspot.com/

Bezzera Strega, Mazzer Robur Grinder, Pullman Tamper Convex,
(KKTO) Turbo Oven Home Roaster.
Daveziol
Hey Bobby -

I searched online for borosilicate glass, like what Pyrex products or lab equipment are made out of. I found little 1/8" thick discs on McMaster-Carr:

http://i.imgur.co...

Be careful though! It didn't like being sandwiched directly up against metal and it chipped on the edges. I bought a new one and made some gaskets out of a kind of heat-proof card stock material that I had laying around.

-Dave
seedlings
+1 for any glass... except... do NOT have glass directly touch the metal. Make sure the glass is attached via high-temperature silicone.

If you want an inexpensive piece of thick tempered glass, buy a cheap 500W halogen shop light. Remember you can't cut tempered glass or pyrex (a good glass shop can, though).

Or you can google on-line glass suppliers where they will take a custom order for whatever you want.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
BobbyS
Ok...thanks! I was under the impression it had to be high temp glass and all the places online I found were huge manufacturing places and big $$$$. I'll give a regular one a go. I have some hi-temp silicon.


Thanks again!
BobbyS
BobbyS

Quote

Daveziol wrote:
Hey Bobby -

I searched online for borosilicate glass, like what Pyrex products or lab equipment are made out of. I found little 1/8" thick discs on McMaster-Carr:

http://i.imgur.co...

Be careful though! It didn't like being sandwiched directly up against metal and it chipped on the edges. I bought a new one and made some gaskets out of a kind of heat-proof card stock material that I had laying around.

-Dave



I will also give McM a look also.

Awesome cutout work on your pieces by the way!
dja
if you looking for a small round sight glass such as is used on boilers it depends on where you live but you might want to check out burner and boiler places, they are usually easy to deal with if you can explaine to them what your hunting.

The quartz yard lights can yield up s pretty good sized piece od BoroSillicate glass, it can be cut as Chad said finding a glass guy to cut it may be kinda hard, you can always use a diamond wet saw to do it with, Tile saw, you may want to talk to Dan more about cutting the stuff he says he has some experiance in this area.

I don't really hold with the idea of using regular glass, its just not made to handle the stresses of what a roaster can be put thru, I bumped my roast chamber the other day accidentally now i have a spot like a rock chip in a windshield on it, tiny but I know its there, what it will do I don't know, I know I hope I don't have to buy another tube.

what are you using to cut your parts with looks like a flowjet, or did you do it on a mill using cnc??????????More pictures of your project please

David
I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
nfcwest1
Go get your self a little 2" halogen puck light , the glass is heat tempered and round. YOU can get them at Home D. for $9. I know a little pricey for a little piece of glass.
Ringo
When I built my drum I used this glass from Mcmaster Carr,http://www.mcmaster.com/#8477K41
I just made a loose fit, no gaskets. Just metal to glass with room for expansion. My view hole is only 7/8 dia but it works. I did end up having to put in a second one, the one in the dump door was not usable because the beans flew by too fast. I cut my hole for the glass with a 1" hole saw and a hand drill. The wobble gave me the clearance I needed. Drilled the first hole almost all the way through, then I used a 7/8 holes saw and drilled all the way through. This gave me a nice pocket for the glass.
Ringo
All you need in life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is sure. Mark Twain
boom
Hi BobbyS

I haven't been active on the site in a long time, but I'd like to get back into it.

The first site glass I used was a simple heat treated (tempered) glass. Unfortunitely, it broke quite quickly. They heat the glass gradually to 600 deg C to temper it, but it is not very shock resistive. ie, you cannot change the temperature rapidly with the glass. Also, using it in a roaster that heats up and cools down slowly reduces the amount of tempering, which reduces it's strength.

I found that, when roasting, there's a lot of moisture retained in the drum. When it cools down and you fire it up again, condensation forms on the glass which quickly cracks it. So tempered glass is not the best route.

Keep in mind that ANY drilling into the glass reduces it's strength. Small cracks in the glass from the drillbit can easily create larger cracks, so don't go this route.

My new machine has a boroscilicate sight glass specially made for the machine. It was only about $15, so it's not too bad. Look out for guys who do laboratory equipment and test tubes. They can usually point you in the right direction.

Good luck and keep us updated!
A good espresso should give you hair on your chest!

Nuova Simonelli Mac Cup S, Mazzer Super Jolly, 1962 Faema President 2-group Lever, 1960 Faema Urania Grinder, 2kg profile controlled roaster
boom
Oh yes, like seedlings said, do not have the glass touch any metal surface directly. Wrap the glass in a cermic woven fibre. You can find strips at any good fireplace shop. It's the same kind they use to keep glass panes in fireplaces in place.
A good espresso should give you hair on your chest!

Nuova Simonelli Mac Cup S, Mazzer Super Jolly, 1962 Faema President 2-group Lever, 1960 Faema Urania Grinder, 2kg profile controlled roaster
BobbyS
Thanks everyone. I got a glass from McMaster and made a brass frame for it. Would high temp silicon work to keep the glass isolated from the metal?


Thanks!
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