SR800/SR540 Fan C... | [78] |
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Roast Color Nerdy... | [32] |
Artisan Arduino P... | [27] |
Understanding the... | [27] |
The Hillbilly popper mod
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seedlings |
Posted on 11/01/2011 8:27 AM
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1 1/2 Pounder ![]() Posts: 4226 Joined: June 27, 2007 |
Wow. I was really surprised when you said "I'm going to turn on the second element now". Nice work! Improvements? Get a dozen or so roasts under your belt and I imagine the improvements will reveal themselves. I use inlet hot air temperature before it hits the beans in addition to bean temperature. What you especially don't want to do is let the bean temperature 'stall' or worse, go down. Since you're reading mostly exhaust air temperature, I would not like to see that temperature go down at all during a roast. Do you lose any heat where your gaskets meet? CHAD Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500 Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover |
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Beaner |
Posted on 11/01/2011 8:06 PM
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![]() 1/4 Pounder ![]() Posts: 143 Joined: July 22, 2009 |
Chad, actually if you notice at 51:00 I do turn on the 2nd controller and turn it up also. That was just to get some good heat going at the start, at 1:41 I turn it off again. There is a tiny amount of loss where the gaskets meet. After I sqeezed a small bead around the sink drain thing I rubbed a little oil on a flat piece of metal and placed it on the bead. When the sealant cured I removed the metal piece and was left with a relatively flat surface on the sealant. On the screen mesh I just smeared it on with my finger. You know, I've even learned a few things about my rig after watching the video. One thing is that I need to pay a little more attention to the airflow as the beans lose moisture and get lighter. This is a truely hands on roaster and I like it that way. Personally for me, it would be too boring if I let a programmed controller do all the adjusting for me. Results would be more consistent I guess but not as much fun. :) Edited by Beaner on 11/01/2011 8:13 PM |
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