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Design parameters?
mk1
I'm building roaster #3 an HGMB and have a few questions.
Is there an optimal distance between the business end of the heat gun and the bean mass?
Does it matter if the gun is at 180D or should it be angled some?
I assume there should be an area for hot gases and chaff to escape, not totally sealed, how large an exhaust area.
TC probe near the top or middle of the bean mass?
I apologize if these questions have been answered in earlier posts. I read most of them but I am a little forgetful.
Also, I was motivated to build one because Allen said Jon's exchange submission was so totally excellent and I have my Leister air welder with triac control. It seemed like a fit.

Roast Strong,
Mark
Edited by mk1 on 12/22/2011 6:57 PM
jkoll42
My heatgun is right around even with the top of the BM. If you go too far out you lose heat and too far in and you risk scorching. My gun is not at 90 - it is sort of angled to hit the bottom side area of the chamber if that makes sense.

As far as exhaust, I don't really have a dedicated exhaust outlet. It sort of seeps out around the side where the lid and roast chamber meet. I would say TC is close to the middle of the bean mass and in one of the corners so it doesnt get whacked by the stirrer.

Hope it helps!
-Jon
Honey badger 1k, Bunn LPG-2E, Technivorm, Cimbali Max Hybrid, Vibiemme Double Domo V3
mk1
Thanks Jon,
I did some more reading of past posts and have some idea on the possible variations, (Bill tilts his whole roaster) gun aimed opposite etc. can't wait to try it. Pretty fast build altogether, maybe 3-4 hours.

Mark
greencardigan
I have mine just below the top of the tin. And I don't use any cover over the beans.
seedlings
My hg/bm setup used the lid of the roaster. I took the sight glass out and filled that void with an aluminum foil 'gasket' that held the HG vertical, pointing straight down, toward the center of the beans. The tip of the gun ended up just about even with the top of the removable tin. I found that a lid was a must for me to roast in winter or have repeatable results. I put the TC probe in the lower third of the bean mass, furthest from the heat source. I can't say if it's best, but it gave me predictable temperatures for first and second crack.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
mk1
I did a first roast on the prototype, only a few errors. Please don't laugh.
img809.imageshack.us/img809/2073/roast2011122315125663.jpg
I was testing the gun position and the TC4C that I don't have the buttons or the LEDs hooked up to yet. I was have a little trouble with heat control and I think my TC is reading low. I have the TC about .5" from the bottom in a corner opposite the heat. It was about 50F in the garage and the ET was a little cold. I forgot to preheat the BM before adding the 1.5 lbs.
img209.imageshack.us/img209/7915/20111223152038.jpg
This thing is a lot of fun, can't wait to pull a shot in a day or so. I couldn't believe how different and loud 1C and 2C are with a open roaster. I plan to fab a copper adapter to place the gun. I might even place a TC4 where the old panel was. I can't say how much I appreciate the great people and info here. I had a blast today.

Mark
JETROASTER
"I did a first roast on the prototype, only a few errors. Please don't laugh"

Mark, I have to laugh. We've all got strange little dusty components back in the corners of the shop somewhere. ...Little reminders of our demented coffee past.
Everybody starts somewhere...and it's great to watch. If the coffee tastes good...the last laugh is yours.
Have Fun! Happy Holidays. -Scott
allenb
I think you're heading in the right direction and will only require a little tweaking. I would do a lid (as jkoll42 suggested) to help in heat retention and overall thermal stability.

What kind of sensor are you using in the beans?

I'm sure you'll have a lot of experienced HGBM users here to chip in with pointers.

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
mk1
Thanks Scott, Happy Holidays to you as well!

Mark
seedlings
You've already alluded to this, but preheating the breadmaker for 2 or 3 minutes will help, although your graph looks alright by me. That dip at 200F won't really affect things, but watch out for the dip at 13 minutes, that one will affect flavor... I find the best way to learn is to do it wrong a few times, but that roast will be very drinkable!

Well done.:Clap:
CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
mk1
Chad,
Thanks for the pointers on the graph. I had great fear of knocking the Liester off my temp stand when trying to adjust temp. I cobbed up a lid that holds it this AM, now I need to learn how the RoR reacts to my temp inputs, (lead lag) etc. Maybe I should use a smaller batch size, duh!

Roast Strong!
Mark
/]img687.imageshack.us/img687/5349/20111224132717.jpg
Edited by mk1 on 12/24/2011 1:05 PM
seedlings
Good, quick work! Smaller batch has the disadvantage of making your bean temperature less reliable since there are fewer beans in contact with the TC.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
mk1
Added some insulation to the HGBM last night, cal silicate board. I still have some work making the TC4C box but it's coming along.
Roast Strong!
Mark

img705.imageshack.us/img705/9946/20111226112051.jpg
Also added two latches to hold the lid on.

img821.imageshack.us/img821/5327/20111226130835.jpg
jkoll42
Great looking lid - I'm a sucker for copper. I will be interested to see how it works with the insulation. What are you using to control the heat from the gun?

I am interested to see what you put the tc4 into. Mine is in an old piece of tupperware duct taped to a floor tile, so I really have to de-ghetto it!
-Jon
Honey badger 1k, Bunn LPG-2E, Technivorm, Cimbali Max Hybrid, Vibiemme Double Domo V3
seedlings
What kind of insulation are you using there?

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
mk1
The insulation is some calcium silicate refractory insulation (8lbs/sqft) I had leftover from my wood fired brick oven build. It's used to support the whole oven that has to weigh at least 2500lbs. The stuff reminds of a big piece of chalk yet it cuts and rasps really easy. When I returned to the Batcave this afternoon I made a gasket around the top of the pail, over the calsil board, from high-temp silicone. Heat control is built into the Liester air welder I'm using, little adjustment knob on the intake end of the gun. Whats funny is if I had to buy the Liester for the build I'd have a $700.00 HGBM.

Roast Strong!
Mark
Edited by mk1 on 12/27/2011 4:27 PM
seedlings

Quote

mk1 wrote:
The insulation is some calcium silicate refractory insulation (8lbs/sqft) I had leftover from my wood fired brick oven build. It's used to support the whole oven that has to weigh at least 2500lbs. The stuff reminds of a big piece of chalk yet it cuts and rasps really easy. When I returned to the Batcave this afternoon I made a gasket around the top of the pail, over the calsil board, from high-temp silicone. Heat control is built into the Liester air welder I'm using, little adjustment knob on the intake end of the gun. Whats funny is if I had to buy the Liester for the build I'd have a $700.00 HGBM.

Roast Strong!
Mark


That makes sense... it couldn't have been pink styrofoam! Well done.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
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