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1st time with a BM
jzuzphreek
I planned to use a much ruder title for this post, but decided against it. B)

I will be getting a variety of single origin beans (Brazil Lua Azul, Cafe Indigo (El Salvador), And an ethopian or sumatran). I want to break in my bread maker, but am not really sure how to get started.

First off, I haven't come up with a way to be hands off, I'll still have to hold the HG if I want to see the roast happen (which I do).

Second, I don't have a way to measure the temperature of the roast. My only thermocouple is attached to the double bowl configuration JimG sent me. Even if I wanted to rip it open, I'm not really sure what my options are for getting it into the bread maker's bowl.

Any tips before I waste some perfectly good beans?
Jessy

IN PRAISE OF COFFEE

This is the beverage of the friends of God; it gives health to those in its service who strive after wisdom.

The intelligent man who empties these cups of foaming coffee, he alone knows the truth.

 
Lawnmowerman
Im all over this. My first time with bread machine was indescribable. Her name was zogirushi and i took her and embraced her then i got her on the bed while my wife observed. Then, with the aid of a screw driver, i removed her skirting. Oh wait. But to quickly get back to the technical aspect~ i used cake pans to fashion a new lid because the plastic one has to go. But im getting ahead of myself. The wiring: trace the power and return lines and you find the only two wires needed to spin the motor. Make sure to keep the starter capacitor wired in. Everything else can go to make room for the control panel. I wanted to use toggles but lacked a drill bit so it has a metal house box and 59cent house switches. Oh i roasted with just the wires dangling out the front until i decided to quit fooling around and spend a buck. And i kept the heater. Switched it off the motor. Practicing for my air roaster build. Motor off no power to heater. And removed the thermal fuse because~
Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
 
Lawnmowerman
I cant stand the thought of ruining valuable beans because the kind people at ul wanted to protect me from burning the house down. So i bypassed the thermal fuse. Of course i must insist that u dont do this yourself. Removal of the thermal fuse prevents the motor from stopping when the metal gets too hot. Its a one shot deal. No reset. My cheap hf hg had one too. Good thing i had 2guns when the 1st 1 blew. Now for the tc set up. Horrible fright 2 the rescue. They are on the other side of the grocery store that i shop at every day. Got it on sale like 20bucks. Its centigrade though. Works4me. I used a brass fitting in the corner of the hopper. It is 1/4 inch npt with barbs to accept a 1/8 inch hose. Hose fitting end is inside and needed to be trimmed to clear stirrer. I got the idea to mount a tube to the side fromjkoll42. Mine is al. This directs the wire up to the top of the hopper. Wire feeds out the top to the dmm. My yellow plastic plug fellapart but the pins are still there.
Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
 
Lawnmowerman
This tc setup enables me to dump the beans w o disrupting the tc position. Avoids fraying. Wire makes a sharp kink where it exits the hopper and enters the extra tube that wasnt needed when i installed my new radiator. This holds it so it could still be easily removed to use in the poppery 2. As to watching the beans, i use a lid and my roaster would need a sight glass to be able to hold the heat and not drop it. Lid is the mount for hg. But if i tell you everything i might deprive you of the fun of learning it thd hard way. Btw, way to go with your choice. And 3/4lb is probably a good load to start with. Have fun.
Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
 
jkoll42
First BM... roast. I remember it well.

To directly answer your two questions to at least get you started, if you have a clamp (irwin quick clamps work great) you can just clamp the gun to the side of anything that stands up. Ladder, sawhorse leg, table leg, your own leg - you get the picture. Like the lawnmowerman said, I think routing the TC wire down the side of the bowl is easiest. You can use a pipe hanger, 1/4" bendable copper, whatever. If you are in a pinch and need a TC to get you going most Sears stock this one - it's nothing amazing and a bit of a ripoff but will do the job for the time being to at least get you roasting. I have bough a couple out of desperation in the past :)

http://www.sears....ockType=G1

-Jon
Honey badger 1k, Bunn LPG-2E, Technivorm, Cimbali Max Hybrid, Vibiemme Double Domo V3
 
JimG

Quote

jzuzphreek wrote:My only thermocouple is attached to the double bowl configuration JimG sent me. Even if I wanted to rip it open, I'm not really sure what my options are for getting it into the bread maker's bowl.

The thermocouple wire tips are welded separately, about 1/8" apart, to the bottom of the bowl. If you remove the thermocouple you will only have a piece of thermocouple wire and would have to figure out a way to fuse the tips back together to have a usable sensor again.

Jim
 
jzuzphreek

Quote

JimG wrote:

Quote

jzuzphreek wrote:My only thermocouple is attached to the double bowl configuration JimG sent me. Even if I wanted to rip it open, I'm not really sure what my options are for getting it into the bread maker's bowl.

The thermocouple wire tips are welded separately, about 1/8" apart, to the bottom of the bowl. If you remove the thermocouple you will only have a piece of thermocouple wire and would have to figure out a way to fuse the tips back together to have a usable sensor again.

Jim


So I guess I'm headed to Sears! :)
Jessy

IN PRAISE OF COFFEE

This is the beverage of the friends of God; it gives health to those in its service who strive after wisdom.

The intelligent man who empties these cups of foaming coffee, he alone knows the truth.

 
jzuzphreek
The container in the BM where the beans (or bread) sits is a hard plastic. Is this going to melt in the high heat situation of bean roasting? Or should I come up with a large metal can type of solution?
Jessy

IN PRAISE OF COFFEE

This is the beverage of the friends of God; it gives health to those in its service who strive after wisdom.

The intelligent man who empties these cups of foaming coffee, he alone knows the truth.

 
jkoll42
FYI - they are stocked where the multimeters are at sears :)

Can you clarify the plastic item? Is it the actual vessel where the stirring arm is (where the bread mix would actually turn into bread) or is it the area around the metal vessel that the bread goes into?
-Jon
Honey badger 1k, Bunn LPG-2E, Technivorm, Cimbali Max Hybrid, Vibiemme Double Domo V3
 
jzuzphreek
it is the vessel in which the stirring ARM sits.
Jessy

IN PRAISE OF COFFEE

This is the beverage of the friends of God; it gives health to those in its service who strive after wisdom.

The intelligent man who empties these cups of foaming coffee, he alone knows the truth.

 
jkoll42
I'm a bit surprised.... if it is plastic it will likely melt. You're looking at 500F temps in the chamber. Probably need to find a can and retrofit. Any chance its Bakelite or something?
-Jon
Honey badger 1k, Bunn LPG-2E, Technivorm, Cimbali Max Hybrid, Vibiemme Double Domo V3
 
jzuzphreek
Turbo Baker II
Jessy

IN PRAISE OF COFFEE

This is the beverage of the friends of God; it gives health to those in its service who strive after wisdom.

The intelligent man who empties these cups of foaming coffee, he alone knows the truth.

 
JackH
I think the DAK Turbo Baker II is same as the Welbilt model. Has a round case (looks like R2D2). The inner parts should all be metal. The top dome and outer case are plastic. I have one of the Welbilt units. Should be teflon coated metal.
Edited by JackH on 03/20/2012 3:18 PM
 
David
It's been a while since I rewired breadmachines, but I steered away from the R2D2 models because when you pull out the loaf pan, there is a huge hole in the bottom. The stirring mechanism stays attached to the base of the machine, instead of traveling with the loaf pan. If our yours had a bright read plastic seal in the bottom, Id suggest creating your own chamber.. The seal won't take the heat and the beans will all fall out unless you plan to tip the whole machine to empty it. :(

There's a picture of it somewhere on this site.

David
 
David
FWIW, I prefer the Breadman model which has the motor UNDER the deck. This allows for all kinds of roasting vessels to be used on the top without colliding with the motor..

David
aka "The Red Kettle Roaster"
David attached the following image:
breadman.jpg
 
Lawnmowerman
Thank you, david, for posting a picture of that platform. Its what i have as a spare and i can see what it will look like when i tear it down. I have all the parts to build a dream hg bm roaster thats just screaming to be put together. Thank you kosmo, for your insight~im calculating the volume of my vessel at around 5 liters including the to dome. Hopefully this will do 500g
Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
 
coughincoffee
(Been dormant and just lurking since 2008--they don't have this thread then, and I'm just too shy to post much) Grin

Hi all! Glad to be back! My recent roaster just died a fiery death and am looking to build a HG/BM setup now.

I have been learning so much from this forum, and although I don't post much, I enjoy being here, something about this forum keeps me coming back for moarr ThumbsUp
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Roasters: Ethiopian long handled Pan (RIP), Cheapo aluminum pan, pasta strainer over portable electric burner with bean mass TC/PID--oh yeah(RIP), Rotisserie 1 pound roaster w/50RPM motor upgrade (from the one before) and 220V burner (RIP), now using popcorn poppers and about to build a HG/BM setup.

Grinders: Solis Maestro (RIP), La Pavoni flat burr grinder, Compak K10, Hario travel handheld (modified)

Brewers: Ceramic Drip, Yama 3 cup with RekRow butane burner, LM GS/3
 
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