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 Bread Machine Coffee Roaster 2013
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| Sparkfuzz |
Posted on 03/28/2013 11:13 AM
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 Newbie  Posts: 26 Joined: March 20, 2013 |
So I first purchased West Bend Poppery 1 on Ebay and broke it, YAY! So now onto a bread machine roaster. I am currently in the middle of building it. So yesterday I went to a bunch of thrift stores and started hunting. Here is a list of what I have so far: A Breadman machine picked up for $7.99 A router control box from Harbor Freight (already had it for the Poppery...) $20 A cheap heat gun from Harbor Freight, 1500 watt dual temperature $13 2- 9 1/2"x6 1/2" aluminum backing pans for my tub cover $5 Epoxy Super Weld (like JB Weld) from Harbor Freight, 2 packages $8 Up to 750 degree Fahrenheit 12 inch Thermometer $10 Handle for the lid $4 Circular wire brushes to attach to my drill to get Teflon removed from tub $8 That is my list I may have missed some minor things. I will keep this thread updated and PLEASE PLEASE, give me some suggestions. Pictures coming soon.  |
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| Sparkfuzz |
Posted on 03/28/2013 12:16 PM
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Newbie Posts: 26 Joined: March 20, 2013 |
I chose this bread maker because it is mostly metal and also because it has a start capacitor in it. I want to thank David, your post was extremely helpful! (http://homeroaste...ead_id=528). I also want to thank user boyntonstu. His posts encouraged me to go for it! And I thank everyone who I did not mention down the line, who has contributed to BM roasting.  Here are the images of the current stage of my roaster. I removed the heating element cables and saved them in case I want to hook it up in the future. I removed the control panel of the BM and discarded it. I wired in a switch and an outlet. I may use the outlet for the gun and may also use it for a viewing light if I decide to install a viewing window in the future. The cover for the tub, actually the tub space, was made with two smaller cookie sheets (dimensions above). I cut the deeper cookie sheet rim, and used generic JB Weld to secure it. This will be the rim in which the smaller cookie sheet will sit in. There is a small gap on 3 sides of the rim, maybe and 1/8 inch, I figured this may be good for venting. I can experiment but can always close the gaps to make the chamber more air tight. Well I will keep updating as I get farther, happy roasting! Original BM with Control Panel Removed
Sparkfuzz attached the following images:
Edited by Sparkfuzz on 03/28/2013 12:23 PM |
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| Sparkfuzz |
Posted on 03/28/2013 12:20 PM
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Newbie Posts: 26 Joined: March 20, 2013 |
Wiring and Installing Switch and Outlet
Sparkfuzz attached the following images:
Edited by Sparkfuzz on 03/28/2013 12:25 PM |
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| Sparkfuzz |
Posted on 03/28/2013 12:21 PM
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Newbie Posts: 26 Joined: March 20, 2013 |
Installing the Chamber Cover
Sparkfuzz attached the following images:
Edited by Sparkfuzz on 03/28/2013 12:27 PM |
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| Sparkfuzz |
Posted on 03/28/2013 12:30 PM
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Newbie Posts: 26 Joined: March 20, 2013 |
Removing the Teflon. I recommend the drill and wire brush attachment. Keep in mind it still takes some strength to hold the drill and keep it from walking all over the place. Also, do not let the circular brush tangle in your shirt like I did, don't worry I still got my nipple (:
Sparkfuzz attached the following image:
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| Sparkfuzz |
Posted on 03/28/2013 12:42 PM
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Newbie Posts: 26 Joined: March 20, 2013 |
Okay, so now onto the lid. I bought a handle to install on the lid that I may also use to rest the heat gun on. I took this picture, I plan to make a hold just big enough for the gun to be inserted. With the handle fixed on it with the gun resting on the handle, I am guessing the gun will be inserted an inch below the bean tub. With about a pound of beans in the tub the gun will be approximately 2-3 inches away from the top of the beans. Does this sound like a pretty good spec? Or should the gun be closer or farther away from the beans? Keep in mind this is the tip of the gun, I took off the plastic surround and exposed the metal shaft, so I could insert it into the cover. Also I plan on adding some more metal where I will be drilling the hole for more insulation, to act as a fire wall for the heat gun. Here is a picture of about where I may drill a hole:
Sparkfuzz attached the following images:
Edited by Sparkfuzz on 03/28/2013 12:48 PM |
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| Sparkfuzz |
Posted on 03/28/2013 12:52 PM
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Newbie Posts: 26 Joined: March 20, 2013 |
By the way, the pictures I upload show up in reverse order than the order I attach them, weird. |
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| Sparkfuzz |
Posted on 03/28/2013 3:14 PM
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Newbie Posts: 26 Joined: March 20, 2013 |
I came to realize I the tub in my BM may not agitate the beans as much as I would like. Back to the drawing board... Add a tube inside? I plan on using this setup just need to know how to modify it further. Suggestions?
Jesus Loves Us!
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| allenb |
Posted on 03/28/2013 8:11 PM
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 Administrator  Posts: 3685 Joined: February 23, 2010 |
Howdy Spark, You're making great progress and rapidly! If you look around you should see some ideas on possible paddle mods. If nothing looks promising someone here will probably lend a hand who's been down that road. Allen 1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
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| Sparkfuzz |
Posted on 03/29/2013 12:10 AM
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Newbie Posts: 26 Joined: March 20, 2013 |
Thanks Allen, I am having a lot of fun. I actually modded my tub with a coffee can and some JB Weld (generic) already. More pictures in the morning (:
Jesus Loves Us!
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| Lawnmowerman |
Posted on 03/29/2013 1:46 AM
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 Pounder  Posts: 546 Joined: March 14, 2012 |
Good to see another bread machine build. Make sure to review all of the mods by member pete h. I have adopted most of them. Did you keep the original metal lid? It mesheswith the outer ring on the machine. ITSVERY important to have a tight fitting outer lid. And a relief vent leading to the outside. You can build a tube on the underside of your lid that will extend the heatgun closer to the beans. You can alwv design brings the heat way down to thebottom of bean mass than it is deflected back in away that baths the breadpan in hot air. Once[url] you line yor tub with acan the air wont reach it directly.[/code][/quote][/u][/url]
Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
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| Lawnmowerman |
Posted on 03/29/2013 1:53 AM
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Pounder Posts: 546 Joined: March 14, 2012 |
Sorry about the typos. I couldnt make them go away.
Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
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| Sparkfuzz |
Posted on 03/29/2013 11:55 AM
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Newbie Posts: 26 Joined: March 20, 2013 |
Thanks for your input Lawnmowerman! I am considering a sheet metal tube to extend the heat. Can't I simply remove the guard around the sheath of the heat gun, and just extend it down to the beans? Maybe the end of the gun gets too hot, at least that is what I was thinking. Also was considering an exhaust for the cover, I was not sure if this would affect the heating of the beans. I was thinking of also implementing a small vacuum or a fan to the exhaust. I'm assuming too much suction is bad and will pull too much heat out. I was thinking maybe like a computer fan at the end of some duct work, directing the smoke and chafe outside. I plan on doing this in my shed. Following is currently where I am at in the project. Thanks!
Jesus Loves Us!
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| Sparkfuzz |
Posted on 03/29/2013 11:57 AM
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Newbie Posts: 26 Joined: March 20, 2013 |
Coffee can + Tin Snips + JB Weld = Tub Mod!
Sparkfuzz attached the following images:
Jesus Loves Us!
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| Sparkfuzz |
Posted on 03/29/2013 12:03 PM
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Newbie Posts: 26 Joined: March 20, 2013 |
I used a flange on the cover for as an added firewall to protect the gun. It fits PERFECT. I plan to keep the gun fixed to the cover, as I will use it also as a handle to take the cover on and off. It will work well to cool the gun too, acts like a stand. I also purchased a little brass fitting to slip the thermometer into. I fixed it the the cover with JB Weld and have it angles in a way it can reach the bean mass without hitting the agitator.
Sparkfuzz attached the following images:
Jesus Loves Us!
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| Sparkfuzz |
Posted on 03/29/2013 12:16 PM
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Newbie Posts: 26 Joined: March 20, 2013 |
Should I extend the heat down with a metal tube extension on the end of the gun, or can I just do this... With the cover removed the gun is about and inch or two away from the beans. Maybe this will scorch the beans?
Sparkfuzz attached the following images:
Jesus Loves Us!
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| Lawnmowerman |
Posted on 03/29/2013 3:06 PM
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Pounder Posts: 546 Joined: March 14, 2012 |
Lid should have no leaks or you lose control and could stall. Vent needs to be at the bottom going through the outer surrround. Heat stays in better that way. Gun neefs to be down in the beans and away from the heat at the same time. A tube accomplished that very well for me. Am I highly reccommend the inverted lid design for even better efficiency. Laminate your lid with another pan that drops inside the ring. You can split one that is too big and slidr it together to make it fit. This lowerers the plane the lid is at. Keep them coming.
Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
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| David |
Posted on 03/30/2013 4:07 AM
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 1 1/2 Pounder  Posts: 690 Joined: October 27, 2005 |
Quote Sparkfuzz wrote: I want to thank David, your post was extremely helpful! My pleasure. I'm glad to see that the article has had such a long shelf life Quote Can't I simply remove the guard around the sheath of the heat gun, and just extend it down to the beans? Maybe the end of the gun gets too hot, at least that is what I was thinking. I have melted the plastic housing on at least one of the HF heat guns by exposing it to too much hot blowback. I now prefer an all-metal model such as those by Wagner and Milwaukee Quote Also was considering an exhaust for the cover, I was not sure if this would affect the heating of the beans. I was thinking of also implementing a small vacuum or a fan to the exhaust. I'm assuming too much suction is bad and will pull too much heat out. I was thinking maybe like a computer fan at the end of some duct work, directing the smoke and chafe outside. You are well on your way, Sir. Thanks for posting the pix. David |
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| PeteH |
Posted on 03/30/2013 9:02 PM
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 1/4 Pounder  Posts: 109 Joined: January 29, 2008 |
Quote Can't I simply remove the guard around the sheath of the heat gun, and just extend it down to the beans? Maybe the end of the gun gets too hot, at least that is what I was thinking. I went to an auto supply store and bought some 1 1/2" aluminum heat riser tubing. I then removed the guard from the HG and slid the tubing up over the nose of the HG and secured it with a worm drive hose clamp. Been using it for several years now. Pete
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| Sparkfuzz |
Posted on 03/31/2013 6:51 PM
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Newbie Posts: 26 Joined: March 20, 2013 |
Thanks for your input guys! I have done some modifying of the cover and added some extra metal to the underside. The lid alone was thin aluminum that didn't feel up to par without modifying it. I also sealed the lid where there were little air gaps with small steel dowel and my trusty JB Weld. Today I did my first trial roast with a half pound of Brazil Fazenda Sao Benedito. It went really good. I tinkered a bit with the heat control during the roast. I had the gun at probably 75 percent power until the first crack then I brought the output of the gun down with the router control relay, enough to lengthen the roast between the 1st and second crack. I started hearing the second crack, then I dumped the beans and cooled them fast. I would say the whole process took about 13 minutes. The roast is probably a FC+. I am drinking it right now, and it turned out good. (I couldn't wait) I was afraid of the generic JB Weld loosening or melting during the roast but had NO problems with that. Everything was intact afterwards. I will still consider the heat rise tubing. Especially since I am assuming some heat will be lost after I add the exhaust. This was more of a trial to make sure my BM and heat gun would not burn up. Also the heat gun plastic did not get hot at all! The metal was hot but there is little to no heat blowing back hitting the gun outside the enclosure. I think I have a sufficient firewall now. Following are pictures of my recent mods. Tomorrow I should be onto building the exhaust. Jesus Loves Us!
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| Sparkfuzz |
Posted on 03/31/2013 6:58 PM
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Newbie Posts: 26 Joined: March 20, 2013 |
Current modification to the lid, which works GREAT!
Sparkfuzz attached the following images:
Jesus Loves Us!
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| Sparkfuzz |
Posted on 03/31/2013 6:59 PM
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Newbie Posts: 26 Joined: March 20, 2013 |
1st 1/2 pound batch in the Bread Machine
Sparkfuzz attached the following image:
Jesus Loves Us!
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| Sparkfuzz |
Posted on 04/02/2013 11:59 PM
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Newbie Posts: 26 Joined: March 20, 2013 |
So I have completed my project slowly but surely. I wanted to make it perfect before I started roasting. I built and exhaust onto the side of the roaster which sucks the smoke and some chafe and vents it outside. My block smells like fresh roasted coffee right now and I am sure the neighbors are jealous. Following are the final steps in my project.
Jesus Loves Us!
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| Sparkfuzz |
Posted on 04/03/2013 12:03 AM
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Newbie Posts: 26 Joined: March 20, 2013 |
Here is the outside hole in the BM enclosure where the duct will sit. The other hole which is not shown, that is on the inside is about 2 inches in diameter. I screwed the duct to the BM using little screws in the little flaps of the hole in which I bent in, then I used aluminum tape to secure and seal it.
Sparkfuzz attached the following images:
Jesus Loves Us!
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| Sparkfuzz |
Posted on 04/03/2013 12:16 AM
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Newbie Posts: 26 Joined: March 20, 2013 |
I moved everything into the shed now. I am using about 8 feet of 4 inch flexible duct tubing. If you look close you can see the fan, it is right where the switch is right before the duct goes outside located in its own 4 inch duct it came in. I had to buy it. I wanted to keep the fan the farthest away from the heat source to allow it to somewhat cool before it reaches the fan. It says to not exceed 140 degrees F for the fan. My guess is that it gets hotter than 140 and maybe it will need to be upgraded in the future. This fan cost about 38 bucks so it was not cheap but I think it allows just enough suction. Not too much to stall the roast but also not enough to suck the chafe outside. I noticed most of the chafe stays in the BM but some does end up in the duct work. This is why I made a removable section at the 90 degree elbow. I can simply vacuum out both sides in a matter of seconds. I wired the fan to a simple light switch. I just need to remember to switch it on when I begin the roast. The fan stays on during the whole roast.
Sparkfuzz attached the following images:
Jesus Loves Us!
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