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Steam Whistle Roaster
JETROASTER
The blower in post #19 is a really nice one. That will push over 5lbs with ease...even with back pressure above 12"WC..
Cheers, -Scott
 
RoasterRob

Quote

ciscobob wrote:

How about this one?

I actually purchased this and thought that it wasn't going to work after I plugged it in. http://www.graing...ower-5DVZ6


I have used several different VC blowers. The one you show should work fine, with your RC you should be easily able to loft 2kg +.

I am lofting 7kg of green using a 1400 watt blower out of a cheap VC. If I drilled out the holes on this roaster I don't think I could do 7kg. It's the velocity of the air coming through the perf plate holes that is improving the ability to loft the beans.

Rob
VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
 
ciscobob
Rob, when you say "Cheap VC" are you getting them out of old vacuum cleaners?
 
oldgearhead
..the ones from old spa blowers usually suck clean air....
oldgearhead attached the following image:
dsc_7333_6.jpg

No oil on my beans...
 
RoasterRob

Quote

ciscobob wrote:

Rob, when you say "Cheap VC" are you getting them out of old vacuum cleaners?

Other than the first roaster I built I use only new units. It has been cheaper for me here in NZ to buy a cheap brand new VC and strip the blower unit out of it. A new VC blower from an appliance repair shop is over a hundred dollars. A new VC I can get for $69 or sometimes $39 on special.
Spa blowers are VC blowers that usually come with sound proofing.

Rob
VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
 
ciscobob
So I am getting some wrinkly beans, guessing I am overheating them. I also have a temp difference of 30-35 C from the RC and right below the perf plate. Could this be a result of lack of airflow that would be solved by more holes or is it my blower. I am still just roasting 550g-600g at a time.
 
Dan
Strange. I've never heard of bean becoming wrinkled. What is your length of roast?
1 pound electric sample roaster, 3 pound direct-flame roaster, both handmade; modified Mazzer Mini grinder, LaSpaziale Vivaldi II automatic espresso machine. When the electricity goes out I make vacpot coffee from beans ground on my Zassenhaus hand grinder, and heat the water with a teakettle on the gas range.
 
ciscobob
I am roasting 600g in about 13-15 min. I am still getting the hang of how quickly to increase temps.

This is kinda what they look like...
www.home-barista.com/forums/userpix/4774_tipping.jpg this is from http://www.home-b...13587.html
 
RoasterRob
Just below and just above(?) perf plate, temp diff could be because bottom tc is subject to more direct radiant heat of the burner. Try some of your roasts down to 11minutes. 135C @ about 3.5 min, 1st C @ about 8.5 min finish at about 11 ish early in 2nd
Rob
VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
 
ciscobob
I just tried a batch and finished at 435 F in 12 min. I was getting a pretty steady increase of temp in the RC and the air temp. I still have a big temp difference. When there is no beans the temp difference is about 15-20 F. The beans look a little better, I will upload a closeup shot later today. The aroma is superb and they taste great to me, maybe more tannins than when I was roasting in the poppery II.
 
tamarian
Nice looking roaster and aptly named. Do you log your roasts? I see a thermocouple. I recommend Artisan, as it will help you compare roasts, make notes and adjustments, analyze the rate of rise for each stage, plus a few more calculations. If not, log the data by hand, at every minute interval, so you can follow a profile and repeat. It will also help in finding what maybe causing the tipping.
Wa'il. 1 Kg PID'ed gas-fired fluid bed roaster, GS/3MPS, K10F
 
ciscobob
I am just hand writing my roasting log info. It has been helpful.

Here are a couple pics of the beans today.
i.imgur.com/f2TMgKJ.jpg
i.imgur.com/RzRAl4R.jpg
 
ciscobob
I started to use a old $15 thrift store vacuum motor. I had no idea it would be so powerful.

Now my issue is that the spot I have the thermocouple for the beans seems like its not very accurate. I have it about 2 in from bottom of the RC. How high should I place it to get a good read on bean temp?
 
Dan
Bob, I've found the same thing. My most powerful vacmotor is from an ancient, original ShopVac. It's the type that used a 5-gallon steel pail for a container!
1 pound electric sample roaster, 3 pound direct-flame roaster, both handmade; modified Mazzer Mini grinder, LaSpaziale Vivaldi II automatic espresso machine. When the electricity goes out I make vacpot coffee from beans ground on my Zassenhaus hand grinder, and heat the water with a teakettle on the gas range.
 
snwcmpr
Drilling sheet metal.... A unibit (step drill) works better than a regular drill. It won't grab the material as it goes through.

Ken in NC
--------------
Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."

As Abraham Lincoln said "Do not trust everything you read on the internet".
 
ciscobob
I don't have a drill press or anybody I know who has one I can use, so I just used my old makita. It takes a little practice to hold the speed low and press down gently but I ordered some nice bits from Amazon that do the job well. http://www.amazon...&psc=1

I am not sure where to place the theromcouple to get a good read on bean temp though, since I have to look down the barrel to see the beans using temps to determine roast is more important.
 
allenb
Bob,

In all of my screwing around with TC locations for bean temp in a fluidbed, I've only found a couple of choices for getting somewhere around a 400 F read during first crack. One is near the top of the bean mass as the bed is in motion (not the top of the spout) opposite the side of the chamber where the perf plate is located. Obviously, when the beans expand during the roast, the sensor will be immersed deeper in the mass which is fine.

The other spot which worked with my smaller fluidbed (1/4 lb) was near the top of the roast chamber off to one side which would most likely not work with your tall RC.

Where ever you end up with you'll need to secure the sensor so it stays put and doesn't drift around. One thing to avoid is having too little of the sensor protruding into the roast chamber. This can cause a false low read due to conducting heat out of the sensor to the outside of the chamber.

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
snwcmpr

Quote

I don't have a drill press

The Unibit is a drill 'bit' not a drill press.

Ken
--------------
Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."

As Abraham Lincoln said "Do not trust everything you read on the internet".
 
ciscobob

Quote

snwcmpr wrote:

Quote

I don't have a drill press

The Unibit is a drill 'bit' not a drill press.

Ken


Ken, I gotcha, I was referring to older post about using a drill press. Have you used a unibit (I have always called them step drill bits) for Stainless?
 
Dan
They are both "Unibit" is Irwin's tradename for their stepbit.

http://www.irwin....drill-sets
1 pound electric sample roaster, 3 pound direct-flame roaster, both handmade; modified Mazzer Mini grinder, LaSpaziale Vivaldi II automatic espresso machine. When the electricity goes out I make vacpot coffee from beans ground on my Zassenhaus hand grinder, and heat the water with a teakettle on the gas range.
 
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