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renatoa
08/10/2022 1:56 AM
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New Roaster from Kentucky
Brandon
Hey guys, took up roasting a couple months ago and have been devouring as much info as I can. Been lurking these forums for a little bit. I started with a less than ideal popcorn popper, but I am currently building a poor man's Dream Roast that I found in this forum.

Looking forward to learning more from you guys.
 
ginny
Hi,

welcome...

a dream roast, good for you. we are here to help out so post away.


ginny

beach
 
Erik
Hi Brandon,

Where in KY?

Anyone can provide a link to the dream roast?

Thanks
 
Brandon
I live in Lexington.

Here's the link to the dream roast:http://forum.home...ead_id=561
Edited by JackH on 08/30/2013 1:31 PM
 
butch burton
The best source of info is from Ed Needham's home roaster site. The only thing I disagree with Ed on is the choice of drum material. Ed used a trash can from bed, bath and beyond and it is inexpensive. SS is a bear to drill and has absolutely no mass which is important. So much so Intelligentsia imports Hothow roasters from Germany - no longer made - which utilize cast iron drums. To cast a drum is a real feat.

My drum is 10" x 23" and will theoretically roast 5# of coffee but i buy in 5 and 10# quantities from SM. Once bought a bag of Ethopian Harrar Horse - 132#. Green coffee lasts a long time with roasted coffee having a 2 week life at max and ground coffee only seconds.

Keep a log of your roasts including temperature and time. My best roasts which are about half way between first and second crack take about 17.5 minutes. You must quickly get your roasted coffee out of the hot drum and cooled off. Ed suggests using a cheap box fan with cooling chamber made of 2x4's and aluminum screen with reinforced with chicken wire. Plastic screen wire will melt. Also get some welder's gloves - third degree burns are no fun i have been told.

good luck - been to Lexington a few times - had some family friends who owned Calumet Farms. Still remember going to Churchill Downs and seeing all those women wearing mink, drinking mint juleps and sweating like horses.

report back on your progress.

butch
 
Brandon
Thanks Butch!

I've got the cooling chamber down, although I had fiberglass screen, so I hope that will hold up.

I did quickly realize I got a bit over my head with the motor for the bean bats. I bought a similar motor hoping to figure out the mounting once it got here, but I'm at a loss on how to rig that up. It didn't have a plug and I'm honestly not sure how to work that out. My next round of beans gets here on Tuesday from SM, so I have till then to figure it out.

Any help on that front would be appreciated.
 
butch burton
The fiberglass screen will be burned immediately by the beans - get aluminum and also get chicken wire to reinforce it. Hardware cloth will work but is way too expensive.

I have a 1/2" shaft in my drum and use a 1/2" connector that has a slot cut in it and a keyway held in by allen nuts. You must keep the allen nuts tight otherwise they will fall out. Also your gearmotor must have enough torque to turn the full drum - mine weighs over 25#. Also you do not want the gear motor to be too fast - some very bright guy figured out the max rpm for a whole series of drums. 30RPM was the optimal for mine and thanks to Ed Needham, I found a used 30RPM gear motor at surplus center. Unfortunately those used gear motors are long gone. A new one will cost over $250.

What beans are u getting from SM's - they are the best supplier and have special ups rates so shipping costs are not too bad - around $10 for 10#.

Yemeni Mokha Ishmali was my last purchase and I only drink coffee in cold weather - it was 93F here today.

Let us know how the first roast goes.

butch
 
allenb

Quote

Brandon wrote:

I did quickly realize I got a bit over my head with the motor for the bean bats. I bought a similar motor hoping to figure out the mounting once it got here, but I'm at a loss on how to rig that up. It didn't have a plug and I'm honestly not sure how to work that out. My next round of beans gets here on Tuesday from SM, so I have till then to figure it out.

Any help on that front would be appreciated.


Brandon,

Shoot us some photos of the bean bat motor showing details so we can help you figure out mounting and power connection.

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
Brandon
Good to know on the screen Butch. I'll head out to Lowe's and swap it out. That would have been a disappointing first batch!

I am getting Guatemala Huehuetenango Xinabajul for sure, but also ordered the 8lb sampler pack, so we'll see!

Allen: Uploading a picture of the motor. Basically, I have yellow, black, white wires out of the top, and two blue wires out of the bottom.
Brandon attached the following image:
motor.gif
 
JackH
Hi Brandon,

I use a similar motor on my turbo roaster. Here is a link to the specifications for it:

http://www.eio.co...K22RGN.pdf

It is a very good and reliable motor.

It requires a start capacitor which I see in your photo.

Edit: Mine is the same mfg but a different model. Yours is a variable speed that has a speed control module. I don't see the module in your photo. You can see the module in that specification I listed above.

Jack
Edited by JackH on 08/31/2013 6:36 AM
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
 
Brandon

Quote

JackH wrote:

Hi Brandon,

I use a similar motor on my turbo roaster. Here is a link to the specifications for it:

http://www.eio.co...K22RGN.pdf

It is a very good and reliable motor.

It requires a start capacitor which I see in your photo.

Edit: Mine is the same mfg but a different model. Yours is a variable speed that has a speed control module. I don't see the module in your photo. You can see the module in that specification I listed above.

Jack


Okay, it seemed like I was missing something there. Outside of the speed control module, is there anything else I'm missing? The wiring guide you attached mentions a potentiometer. necessary? bonus? Should I cut bait and find a different motor?
 
JackH
The motor comes with a speed control module with a potentiometer and socket to control the speed. There is probably a way to wire it without the module and add a fixed resistor for your speed selection. I will look around and see. The information for it is pretty scarce.

The Speed control module is Oriental Motor part # SS21-UL.

Mine is also a Oriental motor, but is a different type and runs at a fixed speed of 70rpm. I wish I could go a bit faster, but would need a different gearbox.

Jack
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
 
allenb
Jack,

I found this but I'm having trouble finding his motor model in the product info pages. They show wiring diagrams with color markings.
They list induction, synchronous, stepper etc. Do you know what type of motor his is?

Maybe you'll have better luck.

http://www.orient...rchive.htm

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
JackH
Thanks Allen,

It is an induction motor and a series called Speed Control.
All the wiring diagrams I see for this speed control series has it connected to an electronic control module.

It uses 5 wires, two blue wires for the Tach. I think it would work without the speed control but I think would run at full speed 1700rpm. The attached gear box would reduce it. The gearbox has a ratio of 9 and it will run at 189rpm I think.

Searches have come up empty so far. Unless someone has been able to use this type of motor. Not sure what the original Dreamroast used for a stirrer motor.

Jack
Edited by JackH on 08/31/2013 12:48 PM
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
 
allenb
It's interesting that on his motor we've got yellow black and white and on every motor I see on their site we've got red, black and white. Makes you wonder if the color standards on their motors have changed since his was made.

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
Brandon

Quote

JackH wrote:

It uses 5 wires, two blue wires for the Tach. I think it would work without the speed control but I think would run at full speed 1700rpm. The attached gear box would reduce it. The gearbox has a ratio of 9 and it will run at 189rpm I think.

Searches have come up empty so far. Unless someone has been able to use this type of motor. Not sure what the original Dreamroast used for a stirrer motor.

Jack


I PMed Farmroast to see how he rigged his up, but I don't know if he's still an active member or not.

As I read the diagram you posted, if I can get this potentiometer (http://www.ebay.c...3cbab6d947) and this speed control (http://www.ebay.c...20d3423632), I should be good (once I add a plug)? It looks like I need either potentiometer or the socket, but not both.

Still trying to find the appropriate shaft attachment, but I feel a lot better about the whole thing. Thanks a ton for your help so far. It's been huge.
 
JackH
I think the socket is to connect the motor leads and pot wires to the module. They use what looks like a vac tube socket with clamp screws so you can connect the wires.

I know Farmroast runs his bean bat at higher speed (around 200rpm). I am not sure if he is using the speed controller or rigged something else.

He is active here. You can also try his blog:

http://coffee-roa...gspot.com/

Glad to be of help and any other questions, please ask!

My KKTO roaster is similar but stirs at lower speed.

Jack
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
 
Brandon
Will do. I've got the parts on order, and see how it goes from there. Until then, It's back to the popper.
 
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