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Another Bake Around Roaster and a New Member
control panel - will be stainless when project is finished - just used plywood template to wire up.
keving attached the following images:
photo4.jpg photo3.jpg
lining up heating elements and blower motor
keving attached the following images:
photo5.jpg photo6.jpg
Nice pictures! Looks like a you're going to have a wonderful roaster soon!
"Grind it like it did you some great injustice!"D.L.Clark
I agree, this is looking real nice. Like the o-ring seals.

1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
Nicely done! Very refined. Cheers, -Scott
I dig the lighted push-buttons and the Sonalert. At least it looks like a Sonalert to me. Is it?
No oil on my beans...
Thanks all! Still waiting on neighbor to help finish up case - hopefully this weekend. Got everything else mostly done. Still have one skillet flange - (literally) to drill then add the tension rods which should be in Tuesday.

OGH it is a sonalert with a flasher as well - saw it and the light up switches at Aubers. It is hooked it to the High Temp alarm. This will get my attention and hopefully keep fires to a minimum.

Here is what I made my flanges out of. I just turned it over:
keving attached the following image:
Well Folks I am proud to present my new highly plagiarised coffee roaster. Thanks to everyone on this site for all their ideas. Special credit to OGH as I stole the most ideas from him! Thanks OGH. Many workers at my local home depot now know me and were helpful when I needed to put a square peg in a round hole. Two guys there were very interested in this project and always asked for updated pics on my Iphone when I came in. Also, I ordered High Temp wire from overnite supply and it turns out the owner is a big time home coffee roaster along with his dad and brother. Man that guy (Todd) could talk!

The roaster still needs to be stained and I plan to replace the plywood control plate with engine brushed stainless to give it some 'bling". But only after tests are done and it is ready for full use. I should note this unit was built without any welding and required only basic shop tools and a couple of split tip carbide drill bits. I have an envelope full of receipts so I will post the parts I used and also how much it cost to put together.
My guess is $600.00.

Final note - if I could build this, anyone with a hint of mechanical aptitude could.
keving attached the following image:
Electrical notes - this is a 220 VAC / 110 VAC unit. 220 on the heating elements and 110 for the blower and PID. I did this because of the challenges of my house's wiring. I have 220VAC 30 amp in my shop but no neutral. 2 hots and a ground. Therefore no 110 VAC leg to use without putting a load through the ground which I didn't want to do. Instead, I used the due to wiring I 110/220 option. Also, did not have large enough wire (12 gauge) with 15 amp breakers, to run everything 110V. So it looks kind of funny with 2 electrical cords plugged to it.

The blower is 1.5 HP in a very quiet case. Further, the mounting bolts go through some garden hose o-rings to help with vibration on the case. Then I added sound insulation to the compartment.
keving attached the following image:
The suction is below the blower/controls compartment and insulated. Air comes in through the back and enters the blower compartment from the front. I placed the heat sinks where plenty of air crosses them. I think I saw somewhere this is called a serpentine vent. Whatever it's called it seems to really help with noise control. That and the fact that every joint on the box is rabbited. glued and screwed - no leaks!.
keving attached the following image:
Complete view of the back including the heating element in a separate compartment. My son called it the "nuclear reactor". I just called it a "flux capacitor'. The funny car insulation hides the tube that holds 2 stacked master appliance 220V heating elements. I felt sort of proud, when I ordered them a lady from their company called me and said "you know those are 220V, right?". Then she asked if I had a 220V heat gun. I told I don't even own a heat gun of any voltage. She said OK no problem. Each element is wired up with 1000F glass/mica 18 gauge wire.

Right now I only have the top element wired in - I want to see what it can alone. Sort of get a feel for the roaster. Then when comfortable with everything I will wire in the second one up.
keving attached the following image:
Here is the roaster with the back on. The air intake is screened to keep unwanted things out. Also if you look close, you can see 2 cords extended out of the sub panel that houses the 30amp breaker for 220VAC. One (the short one is 110V and the other cord is an 8 gauge cord about 30' long to plug into my 220. I use it for my generator.
keving attached the following image:
Finally, here is my Roast Chamber. Knowing this was going to be the central focus during roasting, I wanted to try to make it look nice. Unlike some others on the site who have access to metal working, I really don't and I wanted to see what I could come up with via the re-purpose route. Walking through Walmarts one day I noticed these nice little red skillets. I bought 2 and brought them home, measured them up and viola - roasting chamber flanges with some pizzazz.
keving attached the following image:
So that' sort of it for the build minus tweaking. Now I turn my attention towards actually roasting. I am quite certain I will have lots more questions regarding air speeds, heater output, time to first crack, second crack, TC placement (I have it installed in the shaker top out of the main airflow), etc...

Again, thanks to all for their support and suggestions!

Post #34 got messed up! it should read:

Electrical notes - this is a 220 VAC / 110 VAC unit. 220 on the heating elements and 110 for the blower and PID. I did this because of the challenges of my house's wiring. I have 220VAC 30 amp in my shop but no neutral. 2 hots and a ground. Therefore no 110 VAC leg to use without putting a load through the ground which I didn't want to do. Instead, I used the 110/220 option. Also, on the 110 circuit I did not have large enough wire to my shop (only 12 gauge) with 15 amp breakers, so I could not run everything 11 0V. It does look kind of funny with 2 electrical cords plugged to it.

Nice thing is that it is simple to wire to either 110VAC (with different elements)or 220VAC if suitable home wiring is available.
I'm loving this roaster! Very creative the way you pulled together a great looking base with a very cool looking roast chamber and should be very quiet to operate to boot. (great for hearing the cracks)

What's the height of the base unit?

We're going to want to see video footage of this guy/gal in action! ThumbsUp

1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
This looks awesome. This is really tempting me toward building instead of buying my next roaster. I would be interested especially in a 120V possibly recirculated version.
Really clean, and tight design. Would love to hear how the sound proofing works out.
Wa'il. 1 Kg PID'ed gas-fired fluid bed roaster, GS/3MPS, K10F
No oil on my beans...
Allenb the dimensions are 24"h x 22"w x 14.25d. I could have shaved few inches off on all sides but I wanted room to modify and, I could not decide if I wanted to set it on the ground or on my patio table. So with this height it doesn't matter. On the ground it is tall enough and on the table it is low enough.

OGH. I did go with the SSVR. It appears to work well. Guessing I would say lowest speed is about 10 percent. Highest sounds near 100 percent. I think it will work just fine.

The one thing that is positive at this point is the quietness. A soft hum and air leaving the roasting chamber is all you hear up to about 70 percent power. As Allenb stated should be able to hear the crack. Much quieter than my old popcorn roaster.

Shsesc you should go for it. I planned on a couple of months to build. Took about 3 and that was only because I had to wait on parts ordered on the net.
I can't find the cocktail shaker listed online at Target. Maybe I'll have to go there with a tape measure and find something. IJ know regular bake-a-round units are plentiful, certainly more than the duos that fit the poppery. I have a couple of poppery units in addition to my assembled modded roaster, could I use those heat elements? edited to add that I have two separate 20A receptacles (separate circuits) placed right next to each other, but no 220 30A outlet to use.
Wouldn't you know we set a record cold last night and had an ice/snow mix - a once every few years event. This on the day I wanted to test out the non-recirculating roaster. Well will wait until the weekend - weather report is saying near 70F.

Was able to test sprouting action with 0.5# and 1.0# of green beans. Blower required 27% for 0.5# to get moving in acceptable pattern (nonlinear dimensionless scale with SSVR) and 32% for 1.0#. Beans were blowing out top at 80% - just had to see what would happen.

My son has a gopro - will read up on how to transfer this to a video on youtube or somewhere by the time I do first roast.

shsesc - Target had plenty just sitting on the shelf when I went to the one by the house. Wrote down the label in earlier post to help identify the correct one. Also regarding side by side elements, seedlings did this but he used the master appliance elements as well. I did a stack using OGH's design and adding an extra 6" extension to the original 1.5" lavatory sink pipe - home depot had the extensions sitting right next to the main pipe. Used a pipe cutter to cut off the threaded ends. See OGH's "Brewer to Roaster" thread - this is where I got the majority of my design. I am only going to use one element (the top) to do a couple of roasts. Once comfortable I will wire in the 2nd element. Not being an electrician I was very careful installing the high temp wire to the elements and making sure nothing could move around and short something out - this was/is my biggest concern still. That is also why I have that 30 amp 220v breaker mounted to the side of the box and why I wired the heat switch where it will not come on until the blower is running. I made a diagram that I can post as long as no one makes fun of it :) and as long as you use at your own risk as I take no responsibility for its correctness.

Correction to post #45 - "took about 3 WEEKS not months"
Edited by keving on 01/29/2014 11:53 AM
We have Coffee!!!!

Ran some 1/2# batches to see how this roaster performs. Looks good. After one burn (my fault - never went to 22 minutes before) the rest fell right in line. I have attached my profiles and and some bean pics.

One thing - (Y'all can say I told you so) but putting my thermo coupler through the shaker top causes it to read about 100F low and is not very accurate. One of the reasons I burned the first test roast.

Wow!! how great to be able to roast so much more than the old hot air popper. Just with one element connected I think I can probably get up to 3/4# with no recirculation. I did have to restrict flow out of the roast chamber to about 80%. May keep it here for a while as we only drink about 1.5# a week.

Also, easy to hear 1st crack as air blower only needs about 15% to start with 1/2# and about 10% in the ramp to 1st crack.

1st bean pic is Guatemalan Huehuetenago and the second is a Rwandan they look pretty good and have a bit more uniformity than the pics show. The ultimate test will be in about 3 days.

The profile info uses cumulative times not individual stage times.

Still plan to get a video of the sprouting action soon.
keving attached the following images:
beans2_2.jpg beans1_2.jpg profiles.jpg

Edited by keving on 01/31/2014 6:41 PM
Hey Kevin, sorry to hear about the overdone roast. I'll have to say, if I had $50 for every near flames roast I've pulled off in the last 20 years I'd be a wealthy man!

Very exciting to hear about your new roasters maiden voyage. It's a real thrill to see a new creation produce a good looking roast right out of the gate. We're going to want to see video footage of this beauty in the near future when you're comfortable with taking it through a roast! woohoo

1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana


keving wrote:

We have Coffee!!!!

>snip<.... I did have to restrict flow out of the roast chamber to about 80%...


Great progress! I am curious about the flow restriction. Did you restrict the RC inlet (plugged 4 holes in the cocktail shaker) or the RC outlet.
If the RC inlet is 0.3 square inches (19 x 0.15" holes), what would you say the RC outlet area is?

Again, fantastic job!
No oil on my beans...
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