topbanner.gif
Login
Username

Password




Not a member yet?
Click here to register.

Forgotten your password?
Request a new one here.
Shoutbox
You must login to post a message.

renatoa
04/18/2024 12:36 AM
bijurexim, greyberry2, N C, welcome2

renatoa
04/17/2024 9:27 AM
morning, branchu

renatoa
04/14/2024 5:56 AM
TheOtherJim and papajim, welcome to forum !

allenb
04/11/2024 6:33 PM
Zemona Welcome

renatoa
04/11/2024 9:19 AM
Mrbones and sgupta, coffee drink ?

In Memory Of Ginny
Donations

Latest Donations
dmccallum - 10.00
JackH - 25.00
snwcmpr - 10.00
Anonymous - 2.00
Anonymous - 5.00
Users Online
Guests Online: 2

Members Online: 0

Total Members: 8,211
Newest Member: bijurexim

View Thread

Who is here? 1 guest(s)
 Print Thread
PID challenge!
scareyourpassenger
I am faced with quite a challenge and I am not sure how to go about configuring my PID for control of my Ambex ym-2.

The Ambex has two controllable valves. A Honeywell control valve that can be turned on or off with a relay type control from the PID and is used for making sure the burners are safely lit and to control the on and off flow of the gas. The second valve is a variable valve that is used to control the flow of gas and can be adjusted via a 0-10volt signal.

The issue that I have is that when the second valve is on a low setting, all the buttoners won't light. So for cases where the flames need to be turned off to drop the temperature, it will need to turn on the Honeywell valve, apply full voltage via the second valve to be lit and then drop the pressure to make sure it doesn't overshoot the set point.

This may seem like far more than a pid can handle but I have quite a bit of flexibility within the pid units that I have. If required I can run up to 8 control loops, 8 inputs and 14 outputs, apply math functions, many alarms and actions based off events. I am new to PIDs so any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Here is a link to the manual for the pid units I have. The primary is a RMC3F1F1F1NA1AA while the second is a RMC1 with similar outputs.
The manual can be found here. http://www.instru...Manual.pdf

Thanks in advance!
 
alexcampbell
I suspect the reason that your burners won't light is that solenoid valves need a higher current to begin opening than to stay open. you would probably have to give them a bit of a "Kick" to turn on. I would look at wiring in a voltage boost of some sort that comes on with your ignition system to increase the voltage to the variable soloenoid while the igniter is engaged. What type of solenoid is the variable one?
 
allenb

Quote

scareyourpassenger wrote:

The issue that I have is that when the second valve is on a low setting, all the buttoners won't light. So for cases where the flames need to be turned off to drop the temperature, it will need to turn on the Honeywell valve, apply full voltage via the second valve to be lit and then drop the pressure to make sure it doesn't overshoot the set point.



Here's some info that might be helpful from a recent post on the YM2

http://forum.home...post_48640

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
scareyourpassenger

Quote

alexcampbell wrote:

I suspect the reason that your burners won't light is that solenoid valves need a higher current to begin opening than to stay open. you would probably have to give them a bit of a "Kick" to turn on. I would look at wiring in a voltage boost of some sort that comes on with your ignition system to increase the voltage to the variable soloenoid while the igniter is engaged. What type of solenoid is the variable one?


To make sure it isn't a config issue, I have used the Ambex supplied controls to make sure it wasn't an electrical issue. There just isn't enough gas flow for the pilot to reach the additional burners.
 
scareyourpassenger

Quote

allenb wrote:

Quote

scareyourpassenger wrote:

The issue that I have is that when the second valve is on a low setting, all the buttoners won't light. So for cases where the flames need to be turned off to drop the temperature, it will need to turn on the Honeywell valve, apply full voltage via the second valve to be lit and then drop the pressure to make sure it doesn't overshoot the set point.



Here's some info that might be helpful from a recent post on the YM2

http://forum.home...post_48640

Allen


Thanks, I am familiar with that thread, just don't know the best way to tackle the issue given the controls I have available.
 
tamarian
Is this a stock setup, or modified setup? If modified by replacing PID and/or valves, you might need to check the spec of each.

Use a multimeter to check voltage and/or current being sent to the valve, to rule out signal issues.

The valve manuals might come in handy, to see if they need a calibration procedure, or a cleaning procedure.
Wa'il. 1 Kg PID'ed gas-fired fluid bed roaster, GS/3MPS, K10F
 
allenb
Another obvious thing to confirm is that your regulator is putting out the minimum pressure needed by the gas valve components in your roaster. Is there a port for attaching a gauge. From what I've read on typical low pressure regs for your roaster you should have around 11" WC which is around 4/10 of a psi.

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
Jump to Forum:

Similar Threads

Thread Forum Replies Last Post
GE?s FirstBuild? Challenge Books, Magazines, Blogs and Articles 8 05/11/2016 7:21 AM
Cheap poplite mod challenge Popcorn Popper roasting 4 10/17/2012 11:13 PM
double dog dare roaster chamber challenge Bread Machine Roasters 8 04/27/2012 1:37 AM
Challenge to Brave Espresso Brewers Preparing Coffee 16 02/01/2008 10:27 PM
Homeroasters Association Logo, and all Content, Images, and Icons © 2005-2016 Homeroasters Association - Logos are the property of their respective owners.
Powered by PHP-Fusion Copyright © 2024 PHP-Fusion Inc
Released as free software without warranties under GNU Affero GPL v3
Designed with by NetriX
Hosted by skpacman