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Bread machine build!
icantroast
Hey guys, I am trying to figure out how to wire this bread maker I just bought. I am utterly confused. I'd pull out wires if I could, but it appears they're all attached to each other. Should I just snip them or something? I took some pictures to see if anyone would have any idea of what to do. Any help would be truly appreciated, thanks! Here are the pictures:




images do not exist, gp
Edited by ginny on 02/22/2014 2:52 PM
 
David
Your third picture is the key to it all.
At the beginning of this thread there is a schematic drawing and three examples. Yours is like the first example. The yellow wire is Juice In,
the blue wire is Juice Out and the red wire is the temporary starting circuit.

Be brave and let the extra junk go.
It will be ready to use with a heat gun.

OTOH, if you plan to use the heating element in the breadmachine, then you will have to preserve the wires going to the heater and the fuse. You will want an on/off switch for the whole machine. Then tap off of that wire for your circuit to the heating element and fuse. You might also want to install a separate switch for just the heating element circuit. I tried that and found that the heating element was not adequate to roast coffee, but some folks use it to assist the heat gun.
 
icantroast
Thanks so much for the advice! My problem is, I'm not really sure what to remove. I see those wires, which really are exactly like the pic you took, but all of them are plugged in together somehow. Like, the black wires that plugs into the wall, which separates into halves...I assume I'll definitely need those, but they're plugged in to the circuit board with two other white wires made of fabric. The little plug is labeled heat and fuse. I guess I'm just confused about what to pull out since they all look like they're somehow connected together. AHH!
 
Suncountry
The only wires you are going to want is the black cord going to the circuit board, the blue, red and yellow wires from the motor. I tossed my heating element so I didn't use the white wires with the fabric cover or thermal switch at the very top of your third picture. So cut the black cord next to the circuit board. Cut the blue and yellow wire next to the circuit board too. Take an ohm meter and and see which one of the black cord wires go the the wide blade on the plug end. With a wire nut connect that to the blue wire. With the other black wire connect that to a switch at you can mount on the Breadmaker. On the other side of the switch connect that to the yellow wire. If you don't want to use a switch then just connect the black wire and yellow wire. If you do that you will have to unplug the cord from the outlet to stop the mixer.
 
icantroast
Hopefully since I don't need a switch or the heating element this will be a little more simple. I have to buy an ohm meter. I wish I was a little better with electricity. :( Thanks for the advice!
 
David
While Suncountry's advice is good,
I do it a bit differently on my machines. Your choice.

Here's my way in finer detail:
The Yellow wire and the Blue wire will hook up to your wall cord.
The Yellow will go the side with the small prong and the Blue will go to the bigger prong.
It's exactly like the diagram in the thread.
No need to do anything with the Red wire. It is fine as is.

Cut the Yellow wire off as far from the motor as you can.
Likewise with the Blue. You'll need the length.
You can just attach them to the power cord and
it will start up as soon as you plug it into the wall.
If you want to make a switch, install it in the Yellow wire side of the circuit.

All of the rest of the wiring is just to automate the baking process.
Stir on, stir off. Heat on, heat off. It will only get in your way.

Having said that, go ahead and get an ohm meter if you'd like.
Check and double check is not a bad policy.
I say the Yellow wire in your case is the Hot side because it goes directly to the motor. So, it has to go to the smaller prong.

If it turns out that I am wrong, Shock please post your results.
David
 
icantroast
Oh wow, that is really easy. So just cut the blue and yellow wires, pull out the black, and attach each wire to each side and bada bing bada boom? Should I pull out/cut any other ones or anything else? You are amazing David!


Admin edit: No need to quote if the information is in the previous post.
Edited by JackH on 02/10/2014 9:59 AM
 
David
It sounds like you like the detailed descriptions, so here are some more small details:

1) Look closely at the wall cord. It has two halves, one of which will have a texture molded into the plastic. Look at the plug end of the wire and notice which side the small prong is on. See if it is textured or smooth.
Then you can trace it by feel up to the place where you will attach it to the Yellow wire. The other side goes to the Blue wire.
That will give you an additional degree of confidence about your wiring.

2) Go ahead and test it to see if it runs.

3) If it runs, then you will know for sure that the other stuff is unnecessary.

4) Post your results.
 
icantroast
I did it!!! Thank you so much David! The lines were actually labeled on the circuit board so it was easy to match load and neutral with their respective motor wires. Wow, this thing spins pretty fast and the beans flying around are so loud! I enjoyed doing this, and now I think I have the tinkering bug, haha. Now I have to figure out how to build a stand and all that fun stuff--I'm pretty excited! Thanks so much for putting up with me!

P.S. I think I'll keep my avatar. :)
 
icantroast
Thanks to David's help I was able to successfully re-wire my bread machine. Did my first roast and, although I did it WAY too fast, the beans came out deliciously! I guess I'll just post observations and comments and maybe questions that people can answer if they happen to wanders in here.

As far as mods, I have a long way to go. I think I'll cut out the viewing glass and put the heat gun in there, or maybe take off the plastic and invert it. I've seen a number of mods on this forum that seemed like great ideas.

One thing I definitely DON'T like is that its hard to see your roast progress. And kind of hard to hear it--it's loud. I used a 1/2 cup of beans and I think that was way too little. I'm hoping that adding more will help make the roast progress more slowly. What kind of modifications do you guys like to make to your bread machines?
 
icantroast
Ah, the rest of it is in the Bread Machine Wiring thread that is stickied. I didn't want to post it there because I wasn't sure if that thread was the appropriate place to post information about non-wiring bread machine stuff.
 
JackH
icantroast, I moved your build posts from David's original bread machine thread (from 2007) to your own build thread.

Some of these older threads are getting huge and it is getting difficult to keep things organized.


Jack
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
 
Suncountry
I find 1-1/2 cups of green works good for me. I tried with 2 cups but had to run the heat gun near max output. At 1-1/2 cups I set the heat gun dial at 80 to 85%. I get to FC around 8 to 8-1/2 minutes then drop the heat down to around 70% for another 4 minutes.
 
icantroast
So there are a few shortcomings of this method that I need to figure out how to deal with.

1)I need to figure out how to make some kind of lid or something. Right now, I'm using aluminum foil and while it works, its a waste and it's annoying to deal with.

2)I cant really see the roast progress at all due to it being a sealed design.

3)I can't really hear anything that well and it's frustrating. FC and SC are just incredibly difficult to hear. Tonight I had no idea if I was at first crack, second crack, or neither. UGH.

4)I need to get a k-type thermocouple thermometer (or whatever it's called). My bbq thermometer moves around, and even when it doesn't, its just not really accurate, especially when...

5)I have to hold the heat gun and it moves around. This is both annoying and makes it hard to get repeatable results. I need to figure out how to get the heat gun to stay in one position by itself.
 
Lawnmowerman
Hi, canroast. Ben here. You could make a lid with baking pans split in the middle then slide to fit the outer opening. Laminate this with another panel for rigidity. Mount a tube big enough for heat gun to fit... on the inside to direct the heat to the bottom. And make sure to drill an exhaust port through the outer walls. You could make a very complicated one like i did with a veiwing glass heat gun port triple layer with funnel mount and bean baffle ... but i would start with above mentioned design. Need better explanation just ask away. I will try to get a pic or two to show you what i mean.
Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
 
Lawnmowerman
Heres a couple pics the curved tube fits the side angle and leads directly down into roast chamber. It provides ballast also so heatgun mounted on angle doesnt pull it the wrong way. I used the original sight glass but the wat i built it as an afterthought made it a hard to clean glass. If i could do that again i would use a spyglass with glass at both ends.
Lawnmowerman attached the following images:
cam00455-1-1.jpg cam00454-1-1.jpg

Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
 
icantroast
Thanks for the info and pics Ben! That may be a little beyond my skill but I can certainly improvise! Where do you think it's best to locate the exhaust? I've read that somewhere in the lower portion is best, and to go through both the outer and inner wall and then stick a tube in there.
-Jim
 
David

Quote

icantroast wrote:
2)I can't really see the roast progress at all due to it being a sealed design.
3)I can't really hear anything that well and it's frustrating. FC and SC are just incredibly difficult to hear. Tonight I had no idea if I was at first crack, second crack, or neither. UGH.
5)I have to hold the heat gun and it moves around. This is both annoying and makes it hard to get repeatable results. I need to figure out how to get the heat gun to stay in one position by itself.


I'm with you on all of these points.
(What follows is a bit philosophical, but I think it's worth saying.)

I like an open design so I can see hear and smell the roast in progress. In fact, I discard the entire external shell around the motor, deck and loaf pan. That way I can see the beans changing color; I can associate the smells with the colors; and I can hear the beans as they protest loudly against their fate.
I would like to be able to feel them as well, but as a proxy for my precious fingertips, I use a probe that descends along the side of the roast chamber, running through two screw eyelets to hold it steady in the bean mass. It ataches to a digital cooking thermometer and timer.

Interestingly, the smells change just before first crack and then again just before second crack. That helps with timing a lot, especially if I don't want to go into second crack at all. Eventually, the temperature readings become less and less relevant and the smells more and more important.

It is hard to hold the heatgun steady without a frame around the roasting chamber, so I have tried various arrangements, including a gooseneck lamp to hold the heat gun have also tried a microphone stand.

I know that I have sacrificed some replicability with the open design, but to me it is worth it to stay in sensory connection to the roast. I think it may be a Zen thing, but I have learned a lot about the fundamentals of roasting going this route. For example, roasting chemistry makes more sense when tied to sensory data rather than just to numbers from dials and gauges.

You can add more and more elaborate elements to the roaster and end up with a semi-automatic roasting appliance. Or, you can simplify and end up with a mostly-manual roaster. I really do like the former, but I love the latter. It's a matter of choice.
 
icantroast
Thanks for the info! I always find your posts extremely informative. I particularly liked the line "I can hear the beans as they protest loudly against their fate." Grin I think I'm gonna have to strip it down like you said...it's really hard for me to hear the cracks at all.

I really need to ditch this thermometer. It's just awful. I just wasted a bunch of beans because they were under roasted since I was going by temperature. It was definitely NOT giving me the temp of the bean mass.

Can you recommend a cheap k-type thermocouple? Thanks again!
-Jim
 
icantroast
Here are a few cheap ones i found (though I dunno about the PID thing):

http://www.ebay.c...2c773bbb13
http://www.ebay.c...2581382769
http://www.ebay.c...58a8fb6f2c
http://www.ebay.c...3f2e26e437
http://www.ebay.c...2c72452af8

And also check some local stores.
Edited by icantroast on 02/22/2014 7:09 PM
-Jim
 
icantroast
Yikes, i'd edit that list I posted, but I cant seem to edit anymore. Anyway, I'd throw at least a few of those out since they don't meet my requirements (temp range, fahrenheit, false advertising etc).

I'll probably get this one: http://www.ebay.c...2c773bbb13
Edited by icantroast on 02/22/2014 7:24 PM
-Jim
 
David
I have used the:
"LUX LP1001 Digital Cooking Thermometer" for years. Try Amazon.

I bought several of them back when they were around $20.
The solid probe goes right into the bean mass. You can read the elapsed time while viewing the temperature.

I also use one in the kitchen to measure the temperature of the water in the electric teakettle and to time the brew as well.

I have some of the others, too, but this is my go-to thermometer and timer.
 
icantroast
Thanks! Bought a thermometer, eagerly waiting for it to get here. Found a pretty great way to deal with my aluminum foil lid situation: i found a small disposable (cheap!) aluminum pan that fits in the open space perfectly; I cut a hole in it and I dont even have to hold the heat gun, and it retains heat perfectly!

Now I have to figure out where to drill the exhaust...it seems weird to me to do it in the lower back side, but if you guys recommend it I will. Additionally, I've gotta figure out where to put the little thermocouples (drill a hole in the underside of the pan, maybe?).
-Jim
 
Lawnmowerman
Since you are going the covered lid route the best location for an exhaust is the bottom because it helps with heat retention for it to be as low as possible, especially if you end up making the lid airtight. Im sure you will still see smoke pouring around the lid at 1st crack but if it works for you that might be enough.Thermocouple location at bottom out of the path of the heatgun. I ran mine up a tube on the outside of the breadpan, following the example of another breadmaker user on this forum. For me it helps me to not burn the wire because i use the bread maker element .
Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
 
icantroast
I added a switch to turn the unit on and off. Much more usable this way. Thanks for the info on the exhaust Lawnmowerman.

Question: it seems to me that the paddle that was in my unit isn't the one that belongs to the machine. In other words, it appears someone switched them at the pawn shop. The problem is that it doesn't fit perfectly on the old spindle and theres a little bit of clearance under it where beans get stuck. I covered it in aluminum foil in an attempt to thicken it so beans wouldn't get stuck anymore. Is this ok? I see no reason why it'd be unsafe.

Thanks!
-Jim
 
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