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Bread machine build!
Lawnmowerman
Jim: ditto what David said plus if you look at the pics closely, you can see where we basically have a square with the corners cut off. This corresponds to the picture you posted. Plus, it is the same base that Dave posted. And the same base that I posted. Mine looks a little rougher, but they are all the same. I found that the breadpan is as flimsy as any breadpan and tinsnips work just fine. And an important thing to do is to try to get the riveter on the inside of the pan you attach it to,because the resulting rivet protrudes on the outside instead of the inside when you do it that way. I can look for more pics if you'd like. Ben
Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
David
Good point about the riveter.
icantroast
Man, you guys are amazing, thanks a ton! I'll have to buy a riveter which I'm not looking forward to and try to find a good vessel, but other than that it doesnt sound too horrible.
-Jim
Lawnmowerman
I found another pic for the breadpan cutout. This may help.
Lawnmowerman attached the following image:
0605121046a.jpg

Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
icantroast
Thanks for the pic! Do you guys know how much a riveter I could use for this application would be?

My first bread maker roaster broke, so its time for me to make a new one. I'm gonna try to do this one more nicely!
-Jim
Lawnmowerman
I just checked Harbor Freight and they have a couple for under 20 dollars.
Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
David
The ones with swivel heads are best for hard to reach places, like down inside a roasting vessel. ThumbsUp
Lawnmowerman
Aha! Item #40690. Swivel head hand riveter. Rivets included! 9.99 on sale. Hope this helps.
Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
icantroast
Thanks for the link! That's a great price, I'll pick one up soon! I'm wiring a new bread maker and am kind of lost. I made a post in the wiring thread, but in case no one sees that here's the link.http://forum.home...post_52673 Any advice would be appreciated!
Edited by JackH on 10/10/2014 5:08 PM
-Jim
Lawnmowerman
Hi Jim. I thought to post a pic but the wire pair color is different.Does the blue/ white wire pair connect at a point on the board that says" motor" . That's your power connection. This was the case for a breadman I rewired.
Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
Lawnmowerman
Maybe this will help.
Lawnmowerman attached the following image:
20141012_144422-1.jpg

Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
Lawnmowerman
Two wires power the motor/starter. The starter has two separate wires connecting to the motor.
Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
allenb

Quote

Lawnmowerman wrote:

Two wires power the motor/starter. The starter has two separate wires connecting to the motor.


Are you calling the motor start capacitor a starter? I agree with you that the blue and white pair that plugs into the control board is the pair he should intercept to power it from. Hot side of power cord from wall into on/off switch then to blue lead that was plugged into board. Neutral lead from power cord should go to white lead that was plugged into board. The blue and white leads I'm referring to are the pair now attached to the plug attached to the breadmaker control board.

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
Lawnmowerman
Thanks Allen. I meant motor start capacitor.I had forgotten the proper term for the black thing.ThumbsUp
Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
icantroast

Quote

allenb wrote:

Are you calling the motor start capacitor a starter? I agree with you that the blue and white pair that plugs into the control board is the pair he should intercept to power it from. Hot side of power cord from wall into on/off switch then to blue lead that was plugged into board. Neutral lead from power cord should go to white lead that was plugged into board. The blue and white leads I'm referring to are the pair now attached to the plug attached to the breadmaker control board.

Allen


Interesting! So the hot side of the power cord and the blue wire go into the light switch, and the neutral and white wire are spliced together?
-Jim
allenb
Yes, but, to qualify my statement. If I'm seeing correctly that only two wires come from beyond the motor and start cap which terminate at the board via white plug and no other wires feed the motor and start cap from any other location then you should be good to go as you've re-stated, hot side of power cord and blue attach to two terminals of an on/off switch. Neutral from power cord and white lead are spliced together.

A way to make sure no huge boo boo's have been made is to place the probes of a volt/ohm meter across the two blades of your power cord plug after all is hooked up but before plugging anything into an outlet and with switch in the off position you should read infinite resistance. With the on/off switch in the on position you should see a few or up to many ohms resistance but not zero ohms which would indicate a direct short somewhere in your circuit requiring troubleshooting the circuit.

Now for the CYA cautionary warning: No one should attempt playing with live electrical things unless they've got ample experience with it or are under the supervision of a qualified technician. End of CYA cautionary warning.

Allen
Edited by allenb on 10/12/2014 10:02 PM
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
icantroast
Hey, it worked, thanks a ton guys! For some reason I made this overly complicated. Once I removed that circuit board and realized its literally just the motor wires to the plug wires everything was easy. Couldn't have done it without you!
-Jim
David

Quote

icantroast wrote:
I made a post in the wiring thread, but in case no one sees that here's the link.http://forum.home...post_52673 Any advice would be appreciated!

Jim. I posted a response over in the wiring thread.
icantroast
I think I want to just cut out the glass viewing window on the lid and use that as my point of entry for the heat gun. Good/bad idea? Best way to remove it? Thanks!
-Jim
Lawnmowerman
If your hg port has hot air exiting around the hg nozzle, It will probably melt the heat gun housing. I melted 3. In my experience, a second port for the exhaust works better. As a not- so- adept roaster myself, I had good results building a new lid, making sure to keep the original metal portion of the lid and incorporating it in the assembly. If lid is tight, and air exits bottom, temperature stability greatly improves.
Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
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