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Homeroasters - Home Roasting Coffee Community » BUILDING A ROASTER » Bread Machine Roasters

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Bread machine build!
Lawnmowerman	#61 Posted on 08/10/2014 2:53 AM
Pounder Posts: 546 Joined: March 14, 2012	Jim: ditto what David said plus if you look at the pics closely, you can see where we basically have a square with the corners cut off. This corresponds to the picture you posted. Plus, it is the same base that Dave posted. And the same base that I posted. Mine looks a little rougher, but they are all the same. I found that the breadpan is as flimsy as any breadpan and tinsnips work just fine. And an important thing to do is to try to get the riveter on the inside of the pan you attach it to,because the resulting rivet protrudes on the outside instead of the inside when you do it that way. I can look for more pics if you'd like. Ben Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.


David	#62 Posted on 08/10/2014 5:29 PM
1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 690 Joined: October 27, 2005	Good point about the riveter.


icantroast	#63 Posted on 08/15/2014 12:32 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 71 Joined: January 11, 2014	Man, you guys are amazing, thanks a ton! I'll have to buy a riveter which I'm not looking forward to and try to find a good vessel, but other than that it doesnt sound too horrible. -Jim


Lawnmowerman	#64 Posted on 08/24/2014 2:49 PM
Pounder Posts: 546 Joined: March 14, 2012	I found another pic for the breadpan cutout. This may help. Lawnmowerman attached the following image: Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.


icantroast	#65 Posted on 09/15/2014 9:32 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 71 Joined: January 11, 2014	Thanks for the pic! Do you guys know how much a riveter I could use for this application would be? My first bread maker roaster broke, so its time for me to make a new one. I'm gonna try to do this one more nicely! -Jim


Lawnmowerman	#66 Posted on 09/16/2014 11:45 AM
Pounder Posts: 546 Joined: March 14, 2012	I just checked Harbor Freight and they have a couple for under 20 dollars. Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.


David	#67 Posted on 09/16/2014 12:17 PM
1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 690 Joined: October 27, 2005	The ones with swivel heads are best for hard to reach places, like down inside a roasting vessel.


Lawnmowerman	#68 Posted on 09/16/2014 2:29 PM
Pounder Posts: 546 Joined: March 14, 2012	Aha! Item #40690. Swivel head hand riveter. Rivets included! 9.99 on sale. Hope this helps. Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.


icantroast	#69 Posted on 10/10/2014 1:31 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 71 Joined: January 11, 2014	Thanks for the link! That's a great price, I'll pick one up soon! I'm wiring a new bread maker and am kind of lost. I made a post in the wiring thread, but in case no one sees that here's the link.http://forum.home...post_52673 Any advice would be appreciated! Edited by JackH on 10/10/2014 5:08 PM -Jim


Lawnmowerman	#70 Posted on 10/12/2014 4:43 PM
Pounder Posts: 546 Joined: March 14, 2012	Hi Jim. I thought to post a pic but the wire pair color is different.Does the blue/ white wire pair connect at a point on the board that says" motor" . That's your power connection. This was the case for a breadman I rewired. Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.


Lawnmowerman	#71 Posted on 10/12/2014 5:01 PM
Pounder Posts: 546 Joined: March 14, 2012	Maybe this will help. Lawnmowerman attached the following image: Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.


Lawnmowerman	#72 Posted on 10/12/2014 5:07 PM
Pounder Posts: 546 Joined: March 14, 2012	Two wires power the motor/starter. The starter has two separate wires connecting to the motor. Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.


allenb	#73 Posted on 10/12/2014 5:33 PM
Administrator Posts: 3725 Joined: February 23, 2010	Quote Lawnmowerman wrote: Two wires power the motor/starter. The starter has two separate wires connecting to the motor. Are you calling the motor start capacitor a starter? I agree with you that the blue and white pair that plugs into the control board is the pair he should intercept to power it from. Hot side of power cord from wall into on/off switch then to blue lead that was plugged into board. Neutral lead from power cord should go to white lead that was plugged into board. The blue and white leads I'm referring to are the pair now attached to the plug attached to the breadmaker control board. Allen 1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana


Lawnmowerman	#74 Posted on 10/12/2014 6:06 PM
Pounder Posts: 546 Joined: March 14, 2012	Thanks Allen. I meant motor start capacitor.I had forgotten the proper term for the black thing. Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.


icantroast	#75 Posted on 10/12/2014 7:45 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 71 Joined: January 11, 2014	Quote allenb wrote: Are you calling the motor start capacitor a starter? I agree with you that the blue and white pair that plugs into the control board is the pair he should intercept to power it from. Hot side of power cord from wall into on/off switch then to blue lead that was plugged into board. Neutral lead from power cord should go to white lead that was plugged into board. The blue and white leads I'm referring to are the pair now attached to the plug attached to the breadmaker control board. Allen Interesting! So the hot side of the power cord and the blue wire go into the light switch, and the neutral and white wire are spliced together? -Jim


allenb	#76 Posted on 10/12/2014 9:55 PM
Administrator Posts: 3725 Joined: February 23, 2010	Yes, but, to qualify my statement. If I'm seeing correctly that only two wires come from beyond the motor and start cap which terminate at the board via white plug and no other wires feed the motor and start cap from any other location then you should be good to go as you've re-stated, hot side of power cord and blue attach to two terminals of an on/off switch. Neutral from power cord and white lead are spliced together. A way to make sure no huge boo boo's have been made is to place the probes of a volt/ohm meter across the two blades of your power cord plug after all is hooked up but before plugging anything into an outlet and with switch in the off position you should read infinite resistance. With the on/off switch in the on position you should see a few or up to many ohms resistance but not zero ohms which would indicate a direct short somewhere in your circuit requiring troubleshooting the circuit. Now for the CYA cautionary warning: No one should attempt playing with live electrical things unless they've got ample experience with it or are under the supervision of a qualified technician. End of CYA cautionary warning. Allen Edited by allenb on 10/12/2014 10:02 PM 1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana


icantroast	#77 Posted on 10/14/2014 1:40 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 71 Joined: January 11, 2014	Hey, it worked, thanks a ton guys! For some reason I made this overly complicated. Once I removed that circuit board and realized its literally just the motor wires to the plug wires everything was easy. Couldn't have done it without you! -Jim


David	#78 Posted on 10/14/2014 3:48 PM
1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 690 Joined: October 27, 2005	Quote icantroast wrote: I made a post in the wiring thread, but in case no one sees that here's the link.http://forum.home...post_52673 Any advice would be appreciated! Jim. I posted a response over in the wiring thread.


icantroast	#79 Posted on 11/10/2014 10:49 AM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 71 Joined: January 11, 2014	I think I want to just cut out the glass viewing window on the lid and use that as my point of entry for the heat gun. Good/bad idea? Best way to remove it? Thanks! -Jim


Lawnmowerman	#80 Posted on 11/10/2014 12:28 PM
Pounder Posts: 546 Joined: March 14, 2012	If your hg port has hot air exiting around the hg nozzle, It will probably melt the heat gun housing. I melted 3. In my experience, a second port for the exhaust works better. As a not- so- adept roaster myself, I had good results building a new lid, making sure to keep the original metal portion of the lid and incorporating it in the assembly. If lid is tight, and air exits bottom, temperature stability greatly improves. Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.


Mad Mac	#81 Posted on 11/10/2014 10:45 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 55 Joined: October 25, 2014	I agree. The nozzle area gets really hot. On my wood cover, the wood scorches without protection. I now use a fiberglass nozzle liner. The chamber overheats without an exhaust port. Without an exhaust port, the air is compressed. That can't be kind to the heat gun's motor. If I were to make a new cover, I will cut an oversize hole for the heat gun nozzle. Leave a 1/4" gap all around. Suspend the gun so the nozzle is in the middle of the hole. No plastic goes into the hole. Then I will cut an exhaust port slightly bigger than the heat gun hole. I've seen someone use a moveable goose neck mount to suspend the heat gun. The clamp end clips on the bread maker. The other end is bolted on the heat gun. Clever design.


icantroast	#82 Posted on 11/13/2014 9:52 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 71 Joined: January 11, 2014	I actually removed the plastic part of the heat gun (per someone else's advice from here, i think), and put some heavy aluminum foil around the base of the metal tube of the heat gun to prevent melting. Are you guys saying the reason not to do this is because it'll melt the sheathing around the glass viewing hole? I think that's actually painted metal. I was thinking I'd cut out the glass, use that hole, and put a small exhaust hole in the bottom. Next question: how fast should my roasts be going with a bread machine roaster? Thanks so much for all your help! -Jim


Mad Mac	#83 Posted on 11/13/2014 10:33 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 55 Joined: October 25, 2014	Aluminum foil conducts heat. If anything, it will accelerate heat transfer to the surrounding material. How do I know this? Initially I used aluminum foil to shield my wood cover from the gun nozzle. The wood scorched and glowed red. Then I used fiberglass cloth. That did the trick. Just do what you think is right and deal with a problem if it comes up. I'd be comfortable anywhere from 7 to 12 min. That's personal experience. Not sure if it's proper. Any faster and I get unevenly roasted beans. By that I mean the beans look roasted but parts of it are raw. Stretching the 1C temp will get the "late" beans roasting. On my setup that will be a chamber temp (not bean temp) of 227C for City and 229C for Full City.


Lawnmowerman	#84 Posted on 11/13/2014 11:40 PM
Pounder Posts: 546 Joined: March 14, 2012	Hi Jim. My experience was that with a gap around the heat gun nozzle entry, a high pressure outlet is created, putting more air directly at the point where you stuffed the aluminum foil (which worked very well for me) . Of course this is some speculation, but after changing it so no air escapes there, performance improved. There are still leaks around the lid, but it still works pretty well.600 grams if I wanted but lately I've been sticking to3/ 4 lb loads. How fast? 12 minutes. I used to push it to its limits through most of the roast and finish at 14 minutes with a big charge. Now that I've boosted my voltage I've got the headroom I need to do larger charges in 12. Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.


icantroast	#85 Posted on 10/10/2015 3:08 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 71 Joined: January 11, 2014	After some time away, I'm back to roasting in the bread maker! I guess in the coming weeks I'd like to get a fire blanker/some other material for insulation, something to hold the heat gun up a little higher, and a more solid 'lid' than an aluminum foil serving pan. Also should look into an exhaust at the bottom, which didnt seem to do anything on my last bread machine. So if you've got suggestions, send 'em my way! -Jim

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