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renatoa
01/31/2023 1:17 AM
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Bread machine build!
allenb
Yes, but, to qualify my statement. If I'm seeing correctly that only two wires come from beyond the motor and start cap which terminate at the board via white plug and no other wires feed the motor and start cap from any other location then you should be good to go as you've re-stated, hot side of power cord and blue attach to two terminals of an on/off switch. Neutral from power cord and white lead are spliced together.

A way to make sure no huge boo boo's have been made is to place the probes of a volt/ohm meter across the two blades of your power cord plug after all is hooked up but before plugging anything into an outlet and with switch in the off position you should read infinite resistance. With the on/off switch in the on position you should see a few or up to many ohms resistance but not zero ohms which would indicate a direct short somewhere in your circuit requiring troubleshooting the circuit.

Now for the CYA cautionary warning: No one should attempt playing with live electrical things unless they've got ample experience with it or are under the supervision of a qualified technician. End of CYA cautionary warning.

Allen
Edited by allenb on 10/12/2014 10:02 PM
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
icantroast
Hey, it worked, thanks a ton guys! For some reason I made this overly complicated. Once I removed that circuit board and realized its literally just the motor wires to the plug wires everything was easy. Couldn't have done it without you!
-Jim
 
David

Quote

icantroast wrote:
I made a post in the wiring thread, but in case no one sees that here's the link.http://forum.home...post_52673 Any advice would be appreciated!

Jim. I posted a response over in the wiring thread.
 
icantroast
I think I want to just cut out the glass viewing window on the lid and use that as my point of entry for the heat gun. Good/bad idea? Best way to remove it? Thanks!
-Jim
 
Lawnmowerman
If your hg port has hot air exiting around the hg nozzle, It will probably melt the heat gun housing. I melted 3. In my experience, a second port for the exhaust works better. As a not- so- adept roaster myself, I had good results building a new lid, making sure to keep the original metal portion of the lid and incorporating it in the assembly. If lid is tight, and air exits bottom, temperature stability greatly improves.
Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
 
Mad Mac
I agree. The nozzle area gets really hot. On my wood cover, the wood scorches without protection. I now use a fiberglass nozzle liner.

The chamber overheats without an exhaust port. Without an exhaust port, the air is compressed. That can't be kind to the heat gun's motor.

If I were to make a new cover, I will cut an oversize hole for the heat gun nozzle. Leave a 1/4" gap all around. Suspend the gun so the nozzle is in the middle of the hole. No plastic goes into the hole. Then I will cut an exhaust port slightly bigger than the heat gun hole.

I've seen someone use a moveable goose neck mount to suspend the heat gun. The clamp end clips on the bread maker. The other end is bolted on the heat gun. Clever design.
 
icantroast
I actually removed the plastic part of the heat gun (per someone else's advice from here, i think), and put some heavy aluminum foil around the base of the metal tube of the heat gun to prevent melting. Are you guys saying the reason not to do this is because it'll melt the sheathing around the glass viewing hole? I think that's actually painted metal. I was thinking I'd cut out the glass, use that hole, and put a small exhaust hole in the bottom.

Next question: how fast should my roasts be going with a bread machine roaster?

Thanks so much for all your help!
-Jim
 
Mad Mac
Aluminum foil conducts heat. If anything, it will accelerate heat transfer to the surrounding material.

How do I know this? Initially I used aluminum foil to shield my wood cover from the gun nozzle. The wood scorched and glowed red. Then I used fiberglass cloth. That did the trick.

Just do what you think is right and deal with a problem if it comes up.

I'd be comfortable anywhere from 7 to 12 min. That's personal experience. Not sure if it's proper. Any faster and I get unevenly roasted beans. By that I mean the beans look roasted but parts of it are raw.

Stretching the 1C temp will get the "late" beans roasting. On my setup that will be a chamber temp (not bean temp) of 227C for City and 229C for Full City.
 
Lawnmowerman
Hi Jim. My experience was that with a gap around the heat gun nozzle entry, a high pressure outlet is created, putting more air directly at the point where you stuffed the aluminum foil (which worked very well for me) . Of course this is some speculation, but after changing it so no air escapes there, performance improved. There are still leaks around the lid, but it still works pretty well.600 grams if I wanted but lately I've been sticking to3/ 4 lb loads. How fast? 12 minutes. I used to push it to its limits through most of the roast and finish at 14 minutes with a big charge. Now that I've boosted my voltage I've got the headroom I need to do larger charges in 12.
Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
 
icantroast
After some time away, I'm back to roasting in the bread maker! I guess in the coming weeks I'd like to get a fire blanker/some other material for insulation, something to hold the heat gun up a little higher, and a more solid 'lid' than an aluminum foil serving pan. Also should look into an exhaust at the bottom, which didnt seem to do anything on my last bread machine. So if you've got suggestions, send 'em my way!
-Jim
 
CoffeeAndKimuras

Quote

David wrote:

Quote

icantroast wrote:
2)I can't really see the roast progress at all due to it being a sealed design.
3)I can't really hear anything that well and it's frustrating. FC and SC are just incredibly difficult to hear. Tonight I had no idea if I was at first crack, second crack, or neither. UGH.
5)I have to hold the heat gun and it moves around. This is both annoying and makes it hard to get repeatable results. I need to figure out how to get the heat gun to stay in one position by itself.


I'm with you on all of these points.
(What follows is a bit philosophical, but I think it's worth saying.)

I like an open design so I can see hear and smell the roast in progress. In fact, I discard the entire external shell around the motor, deck and loaf pan. That way I can see the beans changing color; I can associate the smells with the colors; and I can hear the beans as they protest loudly against their fate.
I would like to be able to feel them as well, but as a proxy for my precious fingertips, I use a probe that descends along the side of the roast chamber, running through two screw eyelets to hold it steady in the bean mass. It ataches to a digital cooking thermometer and timer.

Interestingly, the smells change just before first crack and then again just before second crack. That helps with timing a lot, especially if I don't want to go into second crack at all. Eventually, the temperature readings become less and less relevant and the smells more and more important.

It is hard to hold the heatgun steady without a frame around the roasting chamber, so I have tried various arrangements, including a gooseneck lamp to hold the heat gun have also tried a microphone stand.

I know that I have sacrificed some replicability with the open design, but to me it is worth it to stay in sensory connection to the roast. I think it may be a Zen thing, but I have learned a lot about the fundamentals of roasting going this route. For example, roasting chemistry makes more sense when tied to sensory data rather than just to numbers from dials and gauges.

You can add more and more elaborate elements to the roaster and end up with a semi-automatic roasting appliance. Or, you can simplify and end up with a mostly-manual roaster. I really do like the former, but I love the latter. It's a matter of choice.


Has anyone attempted to make an ?open style? BM lid? Maybe something with like a SS mesh that you could leave a hole in and somehow hold the HG? THat way there?s still something somewhat covering it but open so that you can still see/hear/smell...just a thought
 
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