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Bread machine build!
Mad Mac
I agree. The nozzle area gets really hot. On my wood cover, the wood scorches without protection. I now use a fiberglass nozzle liner.

The chamber overheats without an exhaust port. Without an exhaust port, the air is compressed. That can't be kind to the heat gun's motor.

If I were to make a new cover, I will cut an oversize hole for the heat gun nozzle. Leave a 1/4" gap all around. Suspend the gun so the nozzle is in the middle of the hole. No plastic goes into the hole. Then I will cut an exhaust port slightly bigger than the heat gun hole.

I've seen someone use a moveable goose neck mount to suspend the heat gun. The clamp end clips on the bread maker. The other end is bolted on the heat gun. Clever design.
I actually removed the plastic part of the heat gun (per someone else's advice from here, i think), and put some heavy aluminum foil around the base of the metal tube of the heat gun to prevent melting. Are you guys saying the reason not to do this is because it'll melt the sheathing around the glass viewing hole? I think that's actually painted metal. I was thinking I'd cut out the glass, use that hole, and put a small exhaust hole in the bottom.

Next question: how fast should my roasts be going with a bread machine roaster?

Thanks so much for all your help!
Mad Mac
Aluminum foil conducts heat. If anything, it will accelerate heat transfer to the surrounding material.

How do I know this? Initially I used aluminum foil to shield my wood cover from the gun nozzle. The wood scorched and glowed red. Then I used fiberglass cloth. That did the trick.

Just do what you think is right and deal with a problem if it comes up.

I'd be comfortable anywhere from 7 to 12 min. That's personal experience. Not sure if it's proper. Any faster and I get unevenly roasted beans. By that I mean the beans look roasted but parts of it are raw.

Stretching the 1C temp will get the "late" beans roasting. On my setup that will be a chamber temp (not bean temp) of 227C for City and 229C for Full City.
Hi Jim. My experience was that with a gap around the heat gun nozzle entry, a high pressure outlet is created, putting more air directly at the point where you stuffed the aluminum foil (which worked very well for me) . Of course this is some speculation, but after changing it so no air escapes there, performance improved. There are still leaks around the lid, but it still works pretty well.600 grams if I wanted but lately I've been sticking to3/ 4 lb loads. How fast? 12 minutes. I used to push it to its limits through most of the roast and finish at 14 minutes with a big charge. Now that I've boosted my voltage I've got the headroom I need to do larger charges in 12.
Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
After some time away, I'm back to roasting in the bread maker! I guess in the coming weeks I'd like to get a fire blanker/some other material for insulation, something to hold the heat gun up a little higher, and a more solid 'lid' than an aluminum foil serving pan. Also should look into an exhaust at the bottom, which didnt seem to do anything on my last bread machine. So if you've got suggestions, send 'em my way!


David wrote:


icantroast wrote:
2)I can't really see the roast progress at all due to it being a sealed design.
3)I can't really hear anything that well and it's frustrating. FC and SC are just incredibly difficult to hear. Tonight I had no idea if I was at first crack, second crack, or neither. UGH.
5)I have to hold the heat gun and it moves around. This is both annoying and makes it hard to get repeatable results. I need to figure out how to get the heat gun to stay in one position by itself.

I'm with you on all of these points.
(What follows is a bit philosophical, but I think it's worth saying.)

I like an open design so I can see hear and smell the roast in progress. In fact, I discard the entire external shell around the motor, deck and loaf pan. That way I can see the beans changing color; I can associate the smells with the colors; and I can hear the beans as they protest loudly against their fate.
I would like to be able to feel them as well, but as a proxy for my precious fingertips, I use a probe that descends along the side of the roast chamber, running through two screw eyelets to hold it steady in the bean mass. It ataches to a digital cooking thermometer and timer.

Interestingly, the smells change just before first crack and then again just before second crack. That helps with timing a lot, especially if I don't want to go into second crack at all. Eventually, the temperature readings become less and less relevant and the smells more and more important.

It is hard to hold the heatgun steady without a frame around the roasting chamber, so I have tried various arrangements, including a gooseneck lamp to hold the heat gun have also tried a microphone stand.

I know that I have sacrificed some replicability with the open design, but to me it is worth it to stay in sensory connection to the roast. I think it may be a Zen thing, but I have learned a lot about the fundamentals of roasting going this route. For example, roasting chemistry makes more sense when tied to sensory data rather than just to numbers from dials and gauges.

You can add more and more elaborate elements to the roaster and end up with a semi-automatic roasting appliance. Or, you can simplify and end up with a mostly-manual roaster. I really do like the former, but I love the latter. It's a matter of choice.

Has anyone attempted to make an ?open style? BM lid? Maybe something with like a SS mesh that you could leave a hole in and somehow hold the HG? THat way there?s still something somewhat covering it but open so that you can still see/hear/smell...just a thought
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