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02/27/2021 9:50 AM
Questions are best asked in the forum. The posts will last longer, and will be seen the most by members. After a few more posts in the Shoutbox, the post you made will no longer be seen.... maybe you could also introduce yourself and share a little.

02/27/2021 9:29 AM
I'm looking to hire someone to teach/help me to find the best roast profile for the 3 types of coffee that grow on my farm in nicaragua. I live in LA, but but could go anywhere in so cal with my Behmor for a roasting lesson. Please contact me if you're in

02/17/2021 7:20 PM
When your wife thinks 30 grams for a 6 cup setting is strong, you learn to drink muddy water when you are making coffee for both of you.

02/17/2021 8:32 AM
I use a rule of thumb of 60 grams per liter. 8 cups (1 liter, 32 oz) = 60 grams, 6 cups (3/4 liter, 24 oz) = 45 grams. 10 cups = 75 grams 12 cups = 90 grams

02/17/2021 1:47 AM
OldMan41, depends what is "a pot"... usually is more accurate to specify the brew ratio, instead grams of coffee. The most usual is 1:15, thus 40 grams for 600 ml of water. If the 100 grams are for one liter pot, then we are talking about 1:10 ratio.

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my roast, manually logged
porter
I am only 15 roasts in on my (new to me) Hottop. My father was visiting, so I had him jot down bean temps every thirty seconds, while I fussed with the controls.

Here's the data-
Ethiopian Yirga Cheffe from SM, 250 grams
Ambient temp of 80 and dry, in Md, at sea level
First roast of the day, so the machine was allowed to warm up, and I postponed the charge until my lower (BT) probe read 300F, I use this as my initial environmental temp, because no beans are touching it, yet.
The Hottop timer, after increasing it, ticks down to exactly 20 minutes, whereby I load in beans.
I ran full power and no fan until the BT reached 375f at roughly 12 min, whereby I turned down the power to 70% and put the fan on level 3. At first crack, 12:50 at 389f, I turned the power to 60%.
I then lowered the power to 50% a minute later, and pushed the fan to full, and let that ride out until drop at 428f, at 16:20.
12:50 to 16:20 is 3:30, which I am learning is 'development time'. Which calculates into 21% of my overall roast period (3:30 divided by 16:20).

When I look at the graph, I see that it could stand to be steeper in the initial 2/3 of the roast. RoR was enjoying a steady 8 degrees average every 30 seconds, or 16 f per minute. If the overall roast were shortened in time, then perhaps my development time ratio would rise to 23-24%.
I use a tinfoil slice, folded over, to partially cover the top filter on my HT, because looking at the amount of heat escaping that window is huge. When BT gets into the 300's, I remove it.
A solution to shortening the roast time is to drop to 225 grams and see what happens. I choose 250 only because it was an advised starting amount. I am running on normal house current, metered at 120v, on a heavy extension cord.

I could also include ET in my chart, for which I have a functioning probe, but my dad was busy enough with watching and peppering me with questions.

Upon drop, I transfer the hot beans to a box fan cooler, which does the trick in 20 seconds, also flying off remaining chaff.

Results were very uniform color.
I am in the third day post rest, and so I had 2 shots this morning. I have had this bean before, I remember that it gets better later, in say day 4-5. Its slightly flat in flavor, still good, but lacking in punch. Its not bitter, just not overly flavorful.

I am just practicing, learning.

thanks-

Had trouble posting this graph internally here, so I put it on my blog-

http://sprintvelo...8488484747
Edited by ginny on 06/11/2014 1:05 PM
ginny
Hello back...


ginny

beach

going back to my chair.
ciel-007
Porter, I see that you took a considerable amount of time and thought to prepare this detailed post. Nice profile - thanks for sharing.

Quote

porter wrote:

... its slightly flat in flavor, still good, but lacking in punch...


To boost flavor and ad punch, you might experiment with the following tweaks:

-do not drop the greens before Hottop chamber reaches 350F or more
-do not lower roasting power before FC begins
-try to reach FC in less than 12 minutes
-maintain 3-4 minute development after FC
-lift-up fan filter... if you need more cooling CFM to maintain development time

Ciel
Ciel... seeking Heaven in my cup with ................................................................................................................. EXPOBAR Brewtus II - MAZZER Mini E - MAHLK�NIG Vario - GeneCafe - RAF-1 Extreme (Modified B-2 HOTTOP) - BellaTaiwan XJ-101
porter
Thanks, Ciel for the 5 tips.

-do not drop the greens before Hottop chamber reaches 350F or more
Since I have 2 probes, separated by just a few inches in the drum, I have 2 readouts prior to charging. The upper ET probe reads higher, due to heat rising. Maybe I choose one or the other to drive the experimentation of the charge temp, maybe I take the two and average them? Trial and error will determine best outcome.


-do not lower roasting power before FC begins
Ok, but that looks to me like a recipe for barreling through the development period with a full head of heat in the beans and drum. How can you slam on the brakes to lower RoR right at 1C? I supposed that its a matter of really backing off on heat, and going full fan, right at 390F. I'll try, but I bet I stall the RoR more than once, by overcompensating the amount.

-try to reach FC in less than 12 minutes
This sounds like less bean charge to me. I'll give 225g a try and see when I get to 1c. Or, charge later with a higher drum temp. This leads to a question: At what internal drum temp does one approach the dangers of scorching the beans upon charging? I want to avoid that, of course.

-maintain 3-4 minute development after FC
Right, I understand that part, and its relationship to the ratio to the entire roast period.

-lift-up fan filter... if you need more cooling CFM to maintain development time
I can try that, but a question here about junk getting into the components when there is no filter, is that a concern?

again, thanks.

Oh, I almost forgot. This morning is day 4 post roast. I had two shots this am, both were rich and golden brown caramel in color. The temperature of the shots were within the right range from my very hot hx machine, my guess was 200-198f as it ended. I used cold milk in each shot, I like about 1.5 ounces in each, as it lets me drink it immediately, and the flavors seem more palatable when just warm. Today's shots were very very smooth (as expected), but much sweeter than yesterday's. So, patience with letting this bean rest, post roast, is worthwhile. The flavors are coming alive now, so I'd say that my roast wasn't as bad as I had initially thought. Nice stuff, very cocoa like, with fruit sweetness and caramels.

One last thing-
My father uses HGDB at his house to roast. Upon finishing the roast together, I had him smell the jar of gathered beans. He remarked how uniform the roast color was. That's the whole point, I remarked, uniformity and control! Its exactly what you cannot do with a hand held heat gun.
ciel-007
The RAF-1 (modified B-2) produces the most flavorful roasts, by far, since I first began using a Hottop a couple of years ago. My profile calls for roasting the greens at maximum power until BMT reaches 410F. By removing the fan filter, I am able to improve CFM (cooling) to the point where I can stretch development time to 4 minutes. The RAF-1 has never scorched any beans. Here is a link to a profile I was using until recently:

http://homeroaste...post_46459

I have continued to refine the above, and plan to post a revised and improved profile soon.

Ciel
Ciel... seeking Heaven in my cup with ................................................................................................................. EXPOBAR Brewtus II - MAZZER Mini E - MAHLK�NIG Vario - GeneCafe - RAF-1 Extreme (Modified B-2 HOTTOP) - BellaTaiwan XJ-101
turtle

Quote

ciel-007 wrote:

The RAF-1 (modified B-2) produces the most flavorful roasts, by far, since I first began using a Hottop a couple of years ago. My profile calls for roasting the greens at maximum power until BMT reaches 410F. By removing the fan filter, I am able to improve CFM (cooling) to the point where I can stretch development time to 4 minutes. The RAF-1 has never scorched any beans. Here is a link to a profile I was using until recently:

http://homeroaste...post_46459

I have continued to refine the above, and plan to post a revised and improved profile soon.

Ciel


I have found that if I remove the fan entirely, enough air comes in the top slot to keep the internal temp rising with burner on full.

If I raise the fan but don't remove it completely by keeping the top slot filled with the bottom of the filter yet removing the restriction I can keep the internal (hottop probe) temp steady while letting the BT rise minimally thus extending the time at the end of the roast (1st crack for me as I enjoy light roasted coffee).

I also keep the burner/heater on 100% for the entire roast and use the fan to control the internal temp
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: Behmor 1600 +
Grinders: Modified Super Jolly - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
snwcmpr
When you say remove the fan, do you mean remove the filter???

*****
This was my best profile in the HT.

I copied this from another thread.
After running this roaster for a year and a half, I have saved this profile.

I set max temp to 428 & time to 25:00.
It pre-heats and starts timer at 167 degrees.
It runs 100% heat, 0% fan.
I dump 225 grams (8 oz, so I use pounds of beans without odd leftovers) at 375 degrees. Time is @ 20:40 - 20:30.
At 19:30, 18:30, & 17;30 I turn the fan on 25% for 30 seconds to evacuate humidity.
At 16 minutes, I lower to 60% heat and turn fan to 25% for the rest of the roast. 16 is 'usually' where the BMT is 310 signalling dry beans.
(This varies, I suppose by moisture content of beans)
At 13 minutes, I raise to 80% heat. About 1 - 1 1/2 minutes before 1C.
1C is around 11:30, but this varies alot.
At 10 I lower heat to 30%. This is close to where the BMT and oven temps are equal. (413-415 degrees)
I tried 20% but the heat seemed too low. More heat, and the machine wanted to eject (428 oven temp) before the roast was done.

I eject when my BMT is where I want. Usually 445 about 10-15 seconds into 2C. Sometimes i eject at 435/440. Time varies, but around 8:15.

My time & rate of rise is:
About 4 1/2 minutes -- 27.1 degrees p/min to DRY.
About 4 1/2 minutes -- 17.3 degrees p/min to 1C.
About 3 3/4 minutes -- 12 degrees p/min to EJECT.

*************

Since this time I have sold the HT and gotten a fluidbed. I also like my roasts a minute and a half after 1C.

Ken in NC
--------------
Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."

As Abraham Lincoln said "Do not trust everything you read on the internet".
ciel-007

Quote

turtle wrote:

... if I raise the fan (filter) but don't remove it completely by keeping the top slot filled with the bottom of the filter yet removing the restriction...



Mick, well done! That is indeed the most efficient way to increase air flow through the roasting chamber in order to gain control over the smoldering beans.

Ciel
Ciel... seeking Heaven in my cup with ................................................................................................................. EXPOBAR Brewtus II - MAZZER Mini E - MAHLK�NIG Vario - GeneCafe - RAF-1 Extreme (Modified B-2 HOTTOP) - BellaTaiwan XJ-101
ciel-007

Quote

snwcmpr wrote:

... this was my best profile in the HT...



Ken, there is one attractive feature about your profile; you're reaching 1C relatively quickly, and that's one of the secrets for enhancing coffee flavor and creating roast punch.

Following hundreds of roasts in my Hottops, I see no evidence that playing with fan speeds and roasting temperatures, before 1C, does much to enhance coffee flavor or punch.

In my experience, a BMT of 310F does not "signal dry beans"; rather, it reveals that the beans are entering the most dramatic phase of the drying process.

http://homeroaste...post_51094

Ciel
Ciel... seeking Heaven in my cup with ................................................................................................................. EXPOBAR Brewtus II - MAZZER Mini E - MAHLK�NIG Vario - GeneCafe - RAF-1 Extreme (Modified B-2 HOTTOP) - BellaTaiwan XJ-101
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