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HotTop Problems and Resolutions
Army Coffee
All;

I decided to start a new thread associated with HotTop Roaster Problems and, more importantly, how they are resolved. HotTop has a great series of Trouble Shooting links on their site and as a New User of a HotTop 8828B that I purchased used, I had my first problem and I am fast on my way to solving it.

I have done 5 roasts and all went exceptionally well...until yesterday. My roast was fast approaching second crack and looking great when the roaster simply died despite the fact that the outlet was still pushing 121 volts. Being a 8828B, I had no emergency dump and as quickly as I could, removed the front cover and physically dumped the roast well into the second crack. With the fire potential removed, I was at a loss as to what happened.

The troubleshooting on the HotTop web site quickly brought me to voltage testing of the Fusible Link. The roaster I purchased still had the original link and testing showed no connectivity between the two leads. Randy at HotTop confirmed all of this and more importantly calmed my nerves pertaining to the fact that I thought maybe I caused the Fusible Link to Trip. I ordered one and assuming all is as expected, I should have it all back together before next weekends roast with the updated Fusible Link.

Assembly and Disassembly was quite easy using the HotTop instructions and though I am not completely sure my problem is resolved, I am very confident it is. Anyone else ever experience this?

Drew
NEC ASPERA TERRENT

North TJ-072 2kg Roaster, Hottop 8828B, Gene Cafe Roaster, Baratza Vario Grinder, Breville SmartGrinder, Behmor Brazen, Cona "D", Bialetti Moka Express, Aero-Press, Quick Mill QM67
ginny
Drew:

Thanks so much for starting a new thread. I wish more did instead of adding stuff in the middle of the very crowded HT forums...

but the nature of forums is such that it all get buried and for some reason many are afraid to start a new thread.

thanks again,

ginny

beach
JackH
I have seen high temperature links used as fire protection in small motors like grinders, and small roasters like the iRoast2. They are usually physically attached to the motor and will open when the temperature gets to a set value. I fixed a couple of iroast2 roasters and a few grinders by replacing these links. Usually caused by a jam or overloading.

I am not sure if the HotTop does the same thing, but most consumer devices will have protection like that in addition to the usual fuses for high current.
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
Randy G
The only thermal protection in the Hottop is the fusible link attached to the backside of the roast chamber's rear wall. The motor is (IMO) under such low stress that the overheat protection is not necessary.

Life's too short to drink bad coffee.
Army Coffee
As I noted, my HotTop had the original fusible link. HotTop has upgraded this with a Fusible Link that is directly tied to the heater only and installs a jumper on the Main Board.

With the upgrade, if my HotTop would have blown the fusible link, the heater alone would have powered off allowing me to dump the beans with the eject button since the jumper on the main board would have kept power everywhere else.

With the "Old Fusible Link", I lost all power forcing me to physically remove the front cover and dump the beans by hand...Definitely a smart upgrade!
NEC ASPERA TERRENT

North TJ-072 2kg Roaster, Hottop 8828B, Gene Cafe Roaster, Baratza Vario Grinder, Breville SmartGrinder, Behmor Brazen, Cona "D", Bialetti Moka Express, Aero-Press, Quick Mill QM67
ciel-007
Main Cooling Fan Efficiency

Over time, the main cooling fan in your aging Hottop may lose its efficiency, reduce RPM, and perhaps even stop turning altogether. Here is a link to a thread that may help you restore fan efficiency in a maturing roaster:

http://homeroaste...post_51063

Ciel
Ciel... seeking Heaven in my cup with ................................................................................................................. EXPOBAR Brewtus II - MAZZER Mini E - MAHLK�NIG Vario - GeneCafe - RAF-1 Extreme (Modified B-2 HOTTOP) - BellaTaiwan XJ-101
Army Coffee
Ordered fusible link on Monday, arrived today, great instructions on HotTop web site, back up and running! Very easy install and being new to HotTop, I am now very comfortable with the insides of machine!
NEC ASPERA TERRENT

North TJ-072 2kg Roaster, Hottop 8828B, Gene Cafe Roaster, Baratza Vario Grinder, Breville SmartGrinder, Behmor Brazen, Cona "D", Bialetti Moka Express, Aero-Press, Quick Mill QM67
ciel-007

Quote

Army Coffee wrote:

...the troubleshooting on the HotTop web site quickly brought me to voltage testing of the Fusible Link...


Drew, out of curiosity, did you consider replacing the defective Fusible Link with a simple fuse?

Ciel
Ciel... seeking Heaven in my cup with ................................................................................................................. EXPOBAR Brewtus II - MAZZER Mini E - MAHLK�NIG Vario - GeneCafe - RAF-1 Extreme (Modified B-2 HOTTOP) - BellaTaiwan XJ-101
Army Coffee
Ciel

Not really. Mine still had the old style link and in hindsight, after installing the new style jumper, I probably could have. Would have saved me probably 25 bucks, but I am ok with it...Definitely something to consider if it happens again. My assumption is the fusible link is more of a safeguard against excessive heat and not an electrical short.
NEC ASPERA TERRENT

North TJ-072 2kg Roaster, Hottop 8828B, Gene Cafe Roaster, Baratza Vario Grinder, Breville SmartGrinder, Behmor Brazen, Cona "D", Bialetti Moka Express, Aero-Press, Quick Mill QM67
Randy G
DO NOT replace the fusible link with a fuse! The fusible link is a thermal fuse. The new style is designed to only cut power to the heating element in the event of a chamber fire while allowing the rest of the roaster to operate properly. It has nothing to do with current draw. I suggest anyone with the old style to upgrade. if you have two (usually white) wires connected each to SW1 and SW2 instead of a black resistor then you have the old style.

Life's too short to drink bad coffee.
ciel-007

Quote

Army Coffee wrote:

... my assumption is the fusible link is more of a safeguard against excessive heat and not an electrical short...


That's an excellent point!

I had not realized until now that there are two types of Fusible Links (Mechanical fusible link vs Electrical fusible link). It's important to understand that the new Hottops now use a Mechanical Fusible Link. Thanks Randy!

Ciel
Edited by ciel-007 on 06/21/2014 12:46 PM
Ciel... seeking Heaven in my cup with ................................................................................................................. EXPOBAR Brewtus II - MAZZER Mini E - MAHLK�NIG Vario - GeneCafe - RAF-1 Extreme (Modified B-2 HOTTOP) - BellaTaiwan XJ-101
Army Coffee

Quote

Randy G wrote:

DO NOT replace the fusible link with a fuse! The fusible link is a thermal fuse. The new style is designed to only cut power to the heating element in the event of a chamber fire while allowing the rest of the roaster to operate properly. It has nothing to do with current draw. I suggest anyone with the old style to upgrade. if you have two (usually white) wires connected each to SW1 and SW2 instead of a black resistor then you have the old style.


Randy,
If I would have seen this comment when I bought this one used, I would have done this upgrade immediately. Easy to see if you have the old link, and easy to upgrade/ replace. Short of the emergency dump upgrade, any others you recommend to the 8828B?

Drew
NEC ASPERA TERRENT

North TJ-072 2kg Roaster, Hottop 8828B, Gene Cafe Roaster, Baratza Vario Grinder, Breville SmartGrinder, Behmor Brazen, Cona "D", Bialetti Moka Express, Aero-Press, Quick Mill QM67
Randy G
Drew,

In terms of cost:benefit, no other upgrades to the "B" are really necessary. The "-2" upgrade kit is cool since it adds the emergency manual eject function which, like an airbag in a Geo Metro, exposes its value at the moment it is needed. I would only recommend the "K" upgrade if you are in need of a control panel replacement anyway.

Life's too short to drink bad coffee.
ciel-007

Quote

Randy G wrote:

... the "-2" upgrade kit is cool since it adds the emergency manual eject function...


Drew, adding an emergency manual eject function is something that you might actually enjoy doing yourself. To accomplish that you would:
a) drill a small hole through the Rear Cover,
b) insert a wire (or small metal rod) through the hole, and
c) attach wire to the ejection door arm near the Bean Ejection Solenoid.

See the "Tryer Function and Partial Bean Dump" mod at the following link:

http://homeroaste...post_40019

Should you elect to proceed with that mod, I would encourage you to post photos of your accomplishment.

Ciel
Ciel... seeking Heaven in my cup with ................................................................................................................. EXPOBAR Brewtus II - MAZZER Mini E - MAHLK�NIG Vario - GeneCafe - RAF-1 Extreme (Modified B-2 HOTTOP) - BellaTaiwan XJ-101
Randy G
A professional, factory-trained mechanic once told me, "I can't understand that after spending millions of dollars designing suspension components to work together to make a car drive properly, some guy comes along and lowers it with a $1.89 clamp."

Life's too short to drink bad coffee.
ciel-007
Wasn't that the engineer who designed the rear suspension on the 1960 Corvair? Didn't GM relieve him from duty?
Ciel... seeking Heaven in my cup with ................................................................................................................. EXPOBAR Brewtus II - MAZZER Mini E - MAHLK�NIG Vario - GeneCafe - RAF-1 Extreme (Modified B-2 HOTTOP) - BellaTaiwan XJ-101
Randy G
Seriously, attaching a wire of similar object to the eject door in some way, in an attempt to emulate the emergency eject mechanism the factory designed, is not a good idea. The factory emergency eject is designed to not interfere in any way with the electric eject system. Attaching something to the eject door means that a failure of that can cause the eject door to be held closed even in a non-emergency situation creating just that- an emergency, and possibly an bean ignition hazard. Additionally, the wire would have to make a turn or two otherwise it would lead straight out the back through the fan housing or the fan itself. If routed to avoid that there is a possibility of it rubbing on electrical wires and causing a short.

Life's too short to drink bad coffee.
ciel-007

Quote

Randy G wrote:

... attaching a wire of similar object to the eject door in some way, in an attempt to emulate the emergency eject mechanism the factory designed...



A few years ago, someone at Home-Barista ( I believe it was Mohammad) performed this modification on his Hottop (model B). He called it a "simple mod" that provided "emergency ejection", and also permitted "melange roasting".

As I have stated numerous times in my earlier posts, it is important to place security above all else when one is either building a roaster, or modifying a factory unit.

Ciel
Ciel... seeking Heaven in my cup with ................................................................................................................. EXPOBAR Brewtus II - MAZZER Mini E - MAHLK�NIG Vario - GeneCafe - RAF-1 Extreme (Modified B-2 HOTTOP) - BellaTaiwan XJ-101
smatty1
My cooling tray seems to have stopped spinning. Anyone had this happen? Fix?
sparky
Hi,
Haven't posted in a awhile. New problem with b-2k roaster, went to roast today and the roaster seems stuck in the cool down mode from after roasting ;30 secs with fans on and bean door open. Does this in all 3 rst programs. Have unplugged and reset by powering down. Rstr is 93 rsts old and all has been fine.
Looks as thou a new main brd might be in order!.........Doug.
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