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In Memory Of Ginny

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5 roaster pics /advice needed
hi guys here some latest pics of my roaster. I have brush some of the welds with vegetable oil for now to stop rust, so looks a bit weird.
at the sides I have left a gap to put mesh in for the airpath to the burners.
I read a post that said the airpath is best to come from underneath the burners, should I change my design or will it be ok? any advice would be appreciated.
chimpy74 attached the following images:
sscn1168.jpg sscn1167.jpg
Great looking drum roaster and is looking much like the quality of a commercially built unit. Shoot us more detailed photos and info on drum diameter and distance from bottom of roaster body to bottom of drum etc..

While it isn't absolutely necessary, it definitely improves the overall operation and heat transfer to route all incoming air up from underneath the burner to allow the air to sufficiently blend with combustion gasses before entering the rear of the drum. If unheated air is allowed to enter the drum it causes the operator to severely limit how much exhaust is pulled through the drum due to the potential for cooling the bean mass and causing a stall. The incoming air can enter through the sides at the bottom of the roaster as you're planning to do as long as you include sheet metal baffles to direct the air horizontally toward the burner allowing the air and combustion gasses to converge together before hitting the drum surface.

allenb attached the following image:

Edited by allenb on 09/04/2014 8:55 PM
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
hi allen, thanks for the advice.
my drum is 40cm by 40cm. 50mm clearance at the back.
the roaster cover is double walled and I plan to add fibertex sand/glass insulation.
the air gap below the drum is approx. 10 cm deep, after reading your advice regarding airflow I may have to cover these gaps and make them enter lower down.
I got my motor wired up today, I have a 1/2 horsepower three phase motor geared down to a final 59 rpm. it is ran by a vf drive which seems to run quiet and has plenty of adjustment to speed - as I was unsure of the diameter of the drum affecting the rpm. It seems quite torquey running with a firm hand grasping the drum shaft, but I will have to wait and see wether it has enough power..
I made a pull out flap in the neck of the bean hopper to release the beans and seal off the airstream .
as for the chaff removal I was thinking of building my own squirrel fan out of steel and running a small 12volt dc motor with a pwm unit. also have acquired a thermo fan from a late model accident damaged mazda 3 at work. the fan runs quiet and has plenty of suck. 40 cm diameter.
I am unsure regarding safety pilot assemblies.
I have an understanding of how they work , but the ones I have seen are the push button type on the valve itself where you hold the button down till the pilot light is lit. is this something that can be achieved by using a battery powered ignitor and still using a pilot light and thermocouple? or would I have to open a door and reach in to press a button every time the roaster is lit? I guess I am looking for something simple in operation but safe as well.
sorry to ask questions that sound silly......

regards mark.
ps will post some more pics soon.
Edited by chimpy74 on 09/06/2014 2:15 PM


Mark stated: the air gap below the drum is approx. 10 cm deep, after reading your advice regarding airflow I may have to cover these gaps and make them enter lower down.

I think you should be fine with the intake air entering the sides at the bottom and you can install a baffle as seen in the photo in my post of the probat shop roaster. Instead of having air entering an opening in a baffle installed below your burner, install the baffle above the burner as in the Probat burner photo. This allows the incoming air and combustion gasses to both pass through the rectangular opening which gives them a mix prior to contact with the drum and before entering the rear of the drum. You'll need to install the burner closer to one side or the other but still under a portion of the drum. This will give you much more room for the flame to rise limiting contact with the drum. If you try and locate the burner dead center under the drum you'll probably lack headroom if trying to keep the flame tips from contacting the drum.

1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
hi everyone.
I have just been reading up on gas pilot light safety control.
I read about someone using a flame sensor module which controls a piezo ignitor if the flame goes out. I saw them on ebay cheap but I think they are meant to be used with an arduino control board. can these sensors be used any other way ? or is it back to electronic studies for me?


I'm admiring your roaster and have been soaking up all pics that you've posted. I aspire to build something this beautiful some day, and when I do, I will be asking you lots of questions!

You mentioned that you built a flap in the neck of your bean-chute... does that completely seal off air from top of chute? Does it operate as a sort of damper to control vent air air flow from your fan? Do you redirect any of the outgoing airflow back into the machine (I think I've read somewhere that some roasters do this?)?

I'm researching how to build a vent like you've done. My 1K gas/drum roaster currently doesn't have any air flow/vent/chaff collection at all.

What RPM's do you run your vent on? And what sort of pwm are you using/what kind of control does it give you?

I have a small centrifugal fan (like yours), I think it's 3000rpm, 115v, 60Hz. Trying to figure an economical way to control the speed. Hopefully I can translate what you've done to work for mine.

Lastly... ever get around to making a chaff collector?

hi turingalad

thanks for your compliments on my roaster, the roaster has been up and running for a long while now but don't use it anymore as I purchased a commercial roasting plant and run a business now.
however I do sometimes use it for fun and it works really well, the flap in the bean chute completely closes off the airflow , I don't adjust the flap at all just completely close it off and have a small flap further up the exhaust near the cyclone fan,
the cyclone fan operates on a 12 v 80watt motor running through 20 15 amp pwm controller which I bought from ebay for $7.00 Australian(from china) the controller works well. I couldn't tell you the rpm but I usually run it around 1/3 of the total speed.
there are many more up to date pictures of the roaster on this forum but I haven't been that organised and they may take a little finding.
if you are interested I would be more than happy to email you some pictures.
always happy to help fellow users, this is the best place to learn anything to do with roasters and everyone is great to talk to.


Thanks for the fast reply! Very helpful.

I noticed the huge selection of pwm's... how do I know which one works with my fan/motor (1.1Amp, 1/40HP, 60Hz, 15v)?

is this related to your other roaster build? we want to keep the same roaster in the same place.

please advise,

hi, mate . i didn't worry about hertz frequency , others on this site might know more technical stuff . i just picked this particular pwm controller with that particular handling capacity. i was advised by an auto electrician that most motors on a car (where motor came from) draw around 7-8 amps - so i went for a15 amp controller that would safely handle it.

yes ginny, this is from my roaster build which started off as 5kg roaster build pics. also 5kg roaster advice needed, 5kg roaster electronics advice needed, most of my threads are in building a roaster, and afew in dataloggers controllers.


thanks for your reply. let me look to see if it is best/a good idea to merge these with your primary/other/same build.

the reason I am suggesting this is because it is so much easier for members to follow a unique build if all is in one place.

would this be an issue for you if all was combined?

let me know. my suggestion is for the ability for members to follow your entire build with all of the pitfalls and successes ...

thoughts please Mark.



you can send me an email at: [email protected] or PM me here if you wish our conversation to be private. not an issue.

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