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10/19/2021 6:22 AM
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Cracking 165F Barrier with B-2K
IntrepidQ3
I did find how to information here:

http://forum.home...owstart=60

As being a novice with electronics I am hesitant on doing something like forcing a short that could create any damage. I was wondering if anyone could provide pictures or possible step-by-step instructions?

Seems like there was a request for this in the thread above, but there was never a pictorial response.


Sorry if this information is already here but I have been unable to find it, if it is I would greatly appreciate being pointed in the right direction.

Thank you in advance!
Edited by JackH on 09/09/2014 5:44 AM
turtle
I recall someone talking about an issue with the mods and the newer style controller boards. Little fuzzy on this as I have an older (modified) B model

you can try some different "magic words" if this search string does not bring back what you are after https://www.googl...dification

i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u414/turtle-web/food/coffee/Hottop/mods1_zpsa8f467d5.jpg

i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u414/turtle-web/food/coffee/Hottop/mods2_zpsb378a067.jpg
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum
Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
ginny
follow the thread...

many will not respond because the information is there and very well detailede by it's author...

-g
okmed
I have a B-2K and did the "Cracking the 165F Barrier"mod using a normally open push button switch to momentarily short the thermocouple leads and it works perfectly.
RAF-1 Extreme (modified B-2K) Hottop with HTC+TC4C, HG-One grinder, Bezzera Strega.
frachlitz

Quote

okmed wrote:

I have a B-2K and did the "Cracking the 165F Barrier"mod using a normally open push button switch to momentarily short the thermocouple leads and it works perfectly.


Can you explain a litte more? Or give the link to the button you used? Prehaps you have some pictures?
JackH
Here is a link to the switch mod. (look around post #68).

http://forum.home...owstart=60
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
IntrepidQ3
This is excellent to hear. I was reading that this mod will not work with the newer models and the work around was a type of short circuit mod.

I will have to give this a try this weekend the 15 min cool down/reheat cycle for the next roast is getting to me.
IntrepidQ3
I have a greenhorn question. Do I need to source special high temp resistant wire or will regular wire from radio shack work fine?
okmed
Any wire will work because you are shorting it out, not extending the wire to put the switch in series as is done with the non K version. Short the wires on the K version and open the wire on the old version.
RAF-1 Extreme (modified B-2K) Hottop with HTC+TC4C, HG-One grinder, Bezzera Strega.
Barrie
I have been 'reading the mail' here and was just about persuaded that I should do the RAF1 mod. Then.....
This afternoon, I ran two back-to-back roasts and timed the cool-down time without the mod. It was four minutes! I have enough patience for that. ThumbsUp
The routine between roasts was that I waited for the beans to cool in the HT tray, weighed them and recorded post-roast weight and volume, emptied the chaff tray, and turned the HT back on (with USB cable disconnected). The timer was started from this point and, in four minutes, the HT showed 163F and changed to PH. 4 minutes! What is all the fuss about? Roflmao
This was indoors with outside temp. 82. In a garage or on a deck in different weather the cooling would presumably be quicker. JimG, I'm with you.
Barrie (San Diego, CA)
"So much to learn, so little time."
Hottop 2K+., Artisan, Jura Capresso ENA 3 (i.e. espresso).
rgrosz78
My HotTop takes 10-15 minutes to cool down. I have blocked off the top filter. I roast in the garage with the door open, and it is usually between 85 and 95 degrees.
Life is too short to drink bad wine ... or bad coffee!
Barrie

Quote

rgrosz78 wrote:

My HotTop takes 10-15 minutes to cool down. I have blocked off the top filter. I roast in the garage with the door open, and it is usually between 85 and 95 degrees.


I undid the top filter blocking, having decided that one of its functions was to permit the freer entry of air and more efficient fan activity. So, a clean fan and filters all contribute?
Barrie (San Diego, CA)
"So much to learn, so little time."
Hottop 2K+., Artisan, Jura Capresso ENA 3 (i.e. espresso).
turtle
What I did before modifying was to let the hottop run though the cooling cycle (beans in the stirrer).

When when the first cool down cycle ended I remove the beans, remove and empty the chaff tray then start the machine again. This would throw it into a 2nd cool down cycle that I would let run with the chaff tray, bean cover, and rear fan filter all removed to lower the air flow restriction.

Never timed things but this 2nd cool cycle appeared to drop the temp faster than just letting it sit.
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum
Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
Barrie

Quote

turtle wrote:

What I did before modifying was to let the hottop run though the cooling cycle (beans in the stirrer).

When when the first cool down cycle ended I remove the beans, remove and empty the chaff tray then start the machine again. This would throw it into a 2nd cool down cycle that I would let run with the chaff tray, bean cover, and rear fan filter all removed to lower the air flow restriction.

Never timed things but this 2nd cool cycle appeared to drop the temp faster than just letting it sit.

That is what I just described? Four minutes with my setup.
Barrie (San Diego, CA)
"So much to learn, so little time."
Hottop 2K+., Artisan, Jura Capresso ENA 3 (i.e. espresso).
turtle

Quote

Barrie wrote:
That is what I just described? Four minutes with my setup.


Yes, and I do this also.
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum
Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
IntrepidQ3

Quote

Barrie wrote:

The timer was started from this point and, in four minutes, the HT showed 163F and changed to PH. 4 minutes! What is all the fuss about? Roflmao


If it only took 4 min from end of roast to start of next it would be wonderful!

I am unable to roast inside so I roast on my lanai. This time of year it is typically around the same 85-95 F. During cool down I remove chaff tray and back filter. From end of roast to the time I can drop the next roast in is typically 15 min.

There are days that it takes a little bit longer when its hotter outside and I end up going to do something around the house. Oh man! If I don't hear the beeping when it hits 356F (HT Display, typically 280ish F ET for me) during the preheat to hit a button to tell it it's alright, it has to cool back down to 165F. Now I am waiting over a half hour to start a new batch. Shock

I know the number one rule is never leave your roaster unattended, but when I am waiting 15 min to 30 min and looking at an empty roaster I admittedly get antsy and have to do something.

I would just like to take some control over my time! ThumbsUp
Barrie
Must admit that, when I mentioned roasting outside, I was thinking of cold weather. Must have a blind spot.

Somewhere, probably here, there was the comment that cooling with the chaff drawer out could disproportionately lower the roasting chamber temperature, giving misleading reassurance re rear compartment status, which is the area of concern in back-to-back roasts? Perhaps not such a problem on a hot lanai. Grin
Edited by Barrie on 09/14/2014 11:37 AM
Barrie (San Diego, CA)
"So much to learn, so little time."
Hottop 2K+., Artisan, Jura Capresso ENA 3 (i.e. espresso).
IntrepidQ3
Oh no! hooked up momentary switch (normally open). Now the Ht screen states E T1. Tried attaching with copper wire and also with TC wire....

Any further advice would be appreciated.
IntrepidQ3
Ok. So fixed the Error for the T1...

My careless self had the HT plugged in. Dropped an alligator clip, it fell, bounced under the main circuit board... small flash + a little smoke = Big ol' eye roll... thumbdown HT wont power up anymore.

I will be further dissecting to get the board out... Let me know if anyone has any other ideas besides replacing the board
okmed
IntrepidQ3, you were asking for a photo showing how it's done. Sorry for being so late but here's how I did it using some connectors that slice the insulation to make contact with the wire and then connects to a male spade connector.
okmed attached the following images:
wire_connector.jpg shorting_thermocouple.jpg

RAF-1 Extreme (modified B-2K) Hottop with HTC+TC4C, HG-One grinder, Bezzera Strega.
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