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Homeroasters - Home Roasting Coffee Community » ALL ABOUT ROASTERS » HotTop Roaster

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Page 1 of 2: 12

Cracking 165F Barrier with B-2K
IntrepidQ3	#1 Posted on 09/06/2014 6:17 PM
Newbie Posts: 46 Joined: December 15, 2013	I did find how to information here: http://forum.home...owstart=60 As being a novice with electronics I am hesitant on doing something like forcing a short that could create any damage. I was wondering if anyone could provide pictures or possible step-by-step instructions? Seems like there was a request for this in the thread above, but there was never a pictorial response. Sorry if this information is already here but I have been unable to find it, if it is I would greatly appreciate being pointed in the right direction. Thank you in advance! Edited by JackH on 09/09/2014 5:44 AM


turtle	#2 Posted on 09/07/2014 7:08 AM
1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 652 Joined: November 06, 2013	I recall someone talking about an issue with the mods and the newer style controller boards. Little fuzzy on this as I have an older (modified) B model you can try some different "magic words" if this search string does not bring back what you are after https://www.googl...dification Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time" "I'd rather be roasting coffee" Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1 Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+ Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3) Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials) Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto Vacuum: Cona - Bodum Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia


ginny	#3 Posted on 09/07/2014 1:06 PM
Founder Posts: 3476 Joined: October 24, 2005	follow the thread... many will not respond because the information is there and very well detailede by it's author... -g


okmed	#4 Posted on 09/07/2014 10:34 PM
Newbie Posts: 42 Joined: August 23, 2014	I have a B-2K and did the "Cracking the 165F Barrier"mod using a normally open push button switch to momentarily short the thermocouple leads and it works perfectly. RAF-1 Extreme (modified B-2K) Hottop with HTC+TC4C, HG-One grinder, Bezzera Strega.


frachlitz	#5 Posted on 09/09/2014 4:21 AM
Newbie Posts: 16 Joined: March 26, 2014	Quote okmed wrote: I have a B-2K and did the "Cracking the 165F Barrier"mod using a normally open push button switch to momentarily short the thermocouple leads and it works perfectly. Can you explain a litte more? Or give the link to the button you used? Prehaps you have some pictures?


JackH	#6 Posted on 09/09/2014 5:46 AM
Administrator Posts: 1809 Joined: May 10, 2011	Here is a link to the switch mod. (look around post #68). http://forum.home...owstart=60 ---Jack KKTO Roaster.


IntrepidQ3	#7 Posted on 09/11/2014 2:06 PM
Newbie Posts: 46 Joined: December 15, 2013	This is excellent to hear. I was reading that this mod will not work with the newer models and the work around was a type of short circuit mod. I will have to give this a try this weekend the 15 min cool down/reheat cycle for the next roast is getting to me.


IntrepidQ3	#8 Posted on 09/11/2014 2:29 PM
Newbie Posts: 46 Joined: December 15, 2013	I have a greenhorn question. Do I need to source special high temp resistant wire or will regular wire from radio shack work fine?


okmed	#9 Posted on 09/12/2014 5:18 PM
Newbie Posts: 42 Joined: August 23, 2014	Any wire will work because you are shorting it out, not extending the wire to put the switch in series as is done with the non K version. Short the wires on the K version and open the wire on the old version. RAF-1 Extreme (modified B-2K) Hottop with HTC+TC4C, HG-One grinder, Bezzera Strega.


Barrie	#10 Posted on 09/12/2014 6:38 PM
Pounder Posts: 504 Joined: April 10, 2012	I have been 'reading the mail' here and was just about persuaded that I should do the RAF1 mod. Then..... This afternoon, I ran two back-to-back roasts and timed the cool-down time without the mod. It was four minutes! I have enough patience for that. The routine between roasts was that I waited for the beans to cool in the HT tray, weighed them and recorded post-roast weight and volume, emptied the chaff tray, and turned the HT back on (with USB cable disconnected). The timer was started from this point and, in four minutes, the HT showed 163F and changed to PH. 4 minutes! What is all the fuss about? This was indoors with outside temp. 82. In a garage or on a deck in different weather the cooling would presumably be quicker. JimG, I'm with you. Barrie (San Diego, CA) "So much to learn, so little time." Hottop 2K+., Artisan, Jura Capresso ENA 3 (i.e. espresso).


rgrosz78	#11 Posted on 09/13/2014 8:24 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 78 Joined: October 25, 2010	My HotTop takes 10-15 minutes to cool down. I have blocked off the top filter. I roast in the garage with the door open, and it is usually between 85 and 95 degrees. Life is too short to drink bad wine ... or bad coffee!
	Web

Barrie	#12 Posted on 09/13/2014 8:35 PM
Pounder Posts: 504 Joined: April 10, 2012	Quote rgrosz78 wrote: My HotTop takes 10-15 minutes to cool down. I have blocked off the top filter. I roast in the garage with the door open, and it is usually between 85 and 95 degrees. I undid the top filter blocking, having decided that one of its functions was to permit the freer entry of air and more efficient fan activity. So, a clean fan and filters all contribute? Barrie (San Diego, CA) "So much to learn, so little time." Hottop 2K+., Artisan, Jura Capresso ENA 3 (i.e. espresso).


turtle	#13 Posted on 09/14/2014 5:19 AM
1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 652 Joined: November 06, 2013	What I did before modifying was to let the hottop run though the cooling cycle (beans in the stirrer). When when the first cool down cycle ended I remove the beans, remove and empty the chaff tray then start the machine again. This would throw it into a 2nd cool down cycle that I would let run with the chaff tray, bean cover, and rear fan filter all removed to lower the air flow restriction. Never timed things but this 2nd cool cycle appeared to drop the temp faster than just letting it sit. Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time" "I'd rather be roasting coffee" Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1 Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+ Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3) Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials) Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto Vacuum: Cona - Bodum Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia


Barrie	#14 Posted on 09/14/2014 8:31 AM
Pounder Posts: 504 Joined: April 10, 2012	Quote turtle wrote: What I did before modifying was to let the hottop run though the cooling cycle (beans in the stirrer). When when the first cool down cycle ended I remove the beans, remove and empty the chaff tray then start the machine again. This would throw it into a 2nd cool down cycle that I would let run with the chaff tray, bean cover, and rear fan filter all removed to lower the air flow restriction. Never timed things but this 2nd cool cycle appeared to drop the temp faster than just letting it sit. That is what I just described? Four minutes with my setup. Barrie (San Diego, CA) "So much to learn, so little time." Hottop 2K+., Artisan, Jura Capresso ENA 3 (i.e. espresso).


turtle	#15 Posted on 09/14/2014 8:37 AM
1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 652 Joined: November 06, 2013	Quote Barrie wrote: That is what I just described? Four minutes with my setup. Yes, and I do this also. Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time" "I'd rather be roasting coffee" Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1 Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+ Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3) Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials) Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto Vacuum: Cona - Bodum Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia


IntrepidQ3	#16 Posted on 09/14/2014 10:45 AM
Newbie Posts: 46 Joined: December 15, 2013	Quote Barrie wrote: The timer was started from this point and, in four minutes, the HT showed 163F and changed to PH. 4 minutes! What is all the fuss about? If it only took 4 min from end of roast to start of next it would be wonderful! I am unable to roast inside so I roast on my lanai. This time of year it is typically around the same 85-95 F. During cool down I remove chaff tray and back filter. From end of roast to the time I can drop the next roast in is typically 15 min. There are days that it takes a little bit longer when its hotter outside and I end up going to do something around the house. Oh man! If I don't hear the beeping when it hits 356F (HT Display, typically 280ish F ET for me) during the preheat to hit a button to tell it it's alright, it has to cool back down to 165F. Now I am waiting over a half hour to start a new batch. I know the number one rule is never leave your roaster unattended, but when I am waiting 15 min to 30 min and looking at an empty roaster I admittedly get antsy and have to do something. I would just like to take some control over my time!


Barrie	#17 Posted on 09/14/2014 11:26 AM
Pounder Posts: 504 Joined: April 10, 2012	Must admit that, when I mentioned roasting outside, I was thinking of cold weather. Must have a blind spot. Somewhere, probably here, there was the comment that cooling with the chaff drawer out could disproportionately lower the roasting chamber temperature, giving misleading reassurance re rear compartment status, which is the area of concern in back-to-back roasts? Perhaps not such a problem on a hot lanai. Edited by Barrie on 09/14/2014 11:37 AM Barrie (San Diego, CA) "So much to learn, so little time." Hottop 2K+., Artisan, Jura Capresso ENA 3 (i.e. espresso).


IntrepidQ3	#18 Posted on 09/14/2014 12:20 PM
Newbie Posts: 46 Joined: December 15, 2013	Oh no! hooked up momentary switch (normally open). Now the Ht screen states E T1. Tried attaching with copper wire and also with TC wire.... Any further advice would be appreciated.


IntrepidQ3	#19 Posted on 09/14/2014 1:37 PM
Newbie Posts: 46 Joined: December 15, 2013	Ok. So fixed the Error for the T1... My careless self had the HT plugged in. Dropped an alligator clip, it fell, bounced under the main circuit board... small flash + a little smoke = Big ol' eye roll... HT wont power up anymore. I will be further dissecting to get the board out... Let me know if anyone has any other ideas besides replacing the board


okmed	#20 Posted on 09/14/2014 8:20 PM
Newbie Posts: 42 Joined: August 23, 2014	IntrepidQ3, you were asking for a photo showing how it's done. Sorry for being so late but here's how I did it using some connectors that slice the insulation to make contact with the wire and then connects to a male spade connector. okmed attached the following images: RAF-1 Extreme (modified B-2K) Hottop with HTC+TC4C, HG-One grinder, Bezzera Strega.


BarryR	#21 Posted on 09/14/2014 9:29 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 90 Joined: April 25, 2011	Quote turtle wrote: Quote Barrie wrote: That is what I just described? Four minutes with my setup. Yes, and I do this also. I probably will do the mod for my B-2K when I get around to it. An add'l use is in case you eject the beans accidentally or too early, which I've done a few times. With the mod, you could just reset, dump the beans back in, and keep going. Anyway, without the mod, if I'm in a rush, I remove the front cover (using a hot mitt) and that seems to greatly speed up the process (though it's a little difficult to put back on as the gold screw stays pretty hot. Barry


IntrepidQ3	#22 Posted on 09/15/2014 9:34 AM
Newbie Posts: 46 Joined: December 15, 2013	Thank you okmed. I might try to do something similar. First things first is to get the HT to turn on first. Is there a way to trouble shoot the circuit board? Or is it safe to say it's toast and needs to be replaced? I am with you Barry. I have accidentally hit the eject instead of the 'next' button. I have not done this since I started using roaster logger as my controls though.


turtle	#23 Posted on 09/15/2014 10:30 AM
1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 652 Joined: November 06, 2013	Quote IntrepidQ3 wrote: Thank you okmed. I might try to do something similar. First things first is to get the HT to turn on first. Is there a way to trouble shoot the circuit board? Or is it safe to say it's toast and needs to be replaced? Randy has videos on troubleshooting various electronic/electric areas of the roaster. They are the last ones on the list of videos http://www.hottop...nter8.html If none of those get you where you need to go, you may need to ask them directly Quote IntrepidQ3 wrote: I am with you Barry. I have accidentally hit the eject instead of the 'next' button. I have not done this since I started using roaster logger as my controls though. I've painted my eject button area RED which helps me stay away from it now. I wish it came this well marked from the company (Yo Randy... can you pass this along to stop owners from defacing their hottops?). I'd buy another control panel face plate if it had the eject well marked in RED.... Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time" "I'd rather be roasting coffee" Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1 Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+ Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3) Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials) Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto Vacuum: Cona - Bodum Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia


IntrepidQ3	#24 Posted on 09/15/2014 11:21 AM
Newbie Posts: 46 Joined: December 15, 2013	Thank you, I have dabbled in a few of the videos, but nothing related to 'Trouble shooting the main board after you made it spark and smoke' hahaha. I just have that gut feeling it's fried. I just don't want to buy a new one becuase its not cheap, but I will if needed.


IntrepidQ3	#25 Posted on 09/22/2014 5:45 PM
Newbie Posts: 46 Joined: December 15, 2013	I now have switched out the main control board. The HT is now up and running. I continued with the hooking up the N.O. button. I am observing something that is not what I am expecting. When I push the button, the temp does not zero out. Rather it decreases by 100F. The only thing I can think of that would cause this would be, when I press the button the TC read the temp near the control panel... Not a total failure I suppose... It still saves me for waiting for 100F decrease, but still would like to be able to press the button when its at around 300F and drop in a new batch. Any suggestions is much appreciated.