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 HTC/TC4C conflict with Tray & Fan switch mods
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| okmed |
Posted on 09/14/2014 9:07 PM
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 Newbie  Posts: 42 Joined: August 23, 2014 |
I did all of Ciel's mods and everything was working fine. I then purchased the HTC +TC4C from JimG and Friday night finished the install. I then plugged it in and tested the Fan bypass switch but it didn't start. I then tried the Tray bypass switch and both fans tried a laboured start and then tripped off before reaching full speed and the tray arm motor starts and keeps running. If I then try the fan switch it starts (sometimes) and keeps running even if I turn the switch back to auto position. Leaving the the Fan and Tray switches in the auto position, the Hottop appears to work normally on its own. I started a roast and the preheat started as normal with the heater and agitator motor working and when I hit the eject button the tray and cooling fans all worked normally, so pass through function on the boards appears to work. Today I got RoastLogger working and did a roast using it and the HTC+TC4C with the mod switches in the auto position and everything worked fine. Obviously there's some back feed happening through the HTC circuitry when the Fan & Tray switches are used, so I'm wondering if adding a diode or 2 in some way, would allow the Fan & Tray mods to function with the HTC. I don't know much about electronics and was hoping some of the tech wizards here could help. RAF-1 Extreme (modified B-2K) Hottop with HTC+TC4C, HG-One grinder, Bezzera Strega.
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| turtle |
Posted on 09/14/2014 10:09 PM
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 1 1/2 Pounder  Posts: 652 Joined: November 06, 2013 |
The only modification that works after installing the HTC is the temp safety bypass momentary contact switch which is nice as I use it to get back to back roasts. Fan and tray switches both have to be "on" for the rear fan to run after installing the HTC controller. It does not matter whether the TC4C is connected or not, it is the HTC board being plugged in between the main controller and control panel that made the other mods stop working as they were. I've learned to just live with it rather than try to chase down why and change it. Now I only use the manual fan control to cool the roaster down before putting it away. I put the HTC inside the roaster and have the TC4C outside  
Edited by turtle on 09/14/2014 10:14 PM Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee" Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1 Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+ Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3) Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials) Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto Vacuum: Cona - Bodum Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia |
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| smico |
Posted on 09/15/2014 6:19 AM
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 1/2 Pounder  Posts: 262 Joined: December 17, 2011 |
One sure way to resolve those dependencies is to add external power to the fans/tray, and use double-pole-double-throw (DPDT) switch to completely disconnect those circuits from HT and power them independently. I have external cooler, so I never use the tray, but I use that approach for the fan. An old computer power supply works well as 12V source. I can draw some schemas if necessary. Hottop B2 + HTC, Cremina 83, OE Pharos, Brewtus IIIR, Baratza Vario
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| turtle |
Posted on 09/15/2014 9:01 AM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 652 Joined: November 06, 2013 |
Quote smico wrote: One sure way to resolve those dependencies is to add external power to the fans/tray, and use double-pole-double-throw (DPDT) switch to completely disconnect those circuits from HT and power them independently. I have external cooler, so I never use the tray, but I use that approach for the fan. An old computer power supply works well as 12V source. I can draw some schemas if necessary. That would be nice if you could draw something up and post it here. I've got a couple very small 1U server power supplies and could easily "expropriate" one of them as a source of ample 12vdc power if provided with a wiring diagram. I already provide direct DC power to the TC4C+LED and am working on an AC supply system for "the cart" so could add this power supply in easily. 
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee" Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1 Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+ Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3) Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials) Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto Vacuum: Cona - Bodum Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia |
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| okmed |
Posted on 09/15/2014 9:57 PM
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Newbie Posts: 42 Joined: August 23, 2014 |
OK, I've found my problem and the cure. The 8 conductor wiring harness with the switches spliced in, has to be plugged into the "Hottop Main Circuit Board", with the "common (centre) terminal" of the Fan switch going to the Red wire at the "Main Circuit Board" plug. Basically it's exactly the same as ciel-007 has documented but you have to make sure the harness is between the "HTC and the Main Circuit Board". The SPST Tray switch that connects the Yellow wire to the Black wire has to be replaced with a SPDT switch, similar to the Fan switch (but not necessary to have centre off position). The Yellow wire has to be cut and the "common (centre) terminal" has to go to the Yellow wire at the "Main Circuit Board" plug. It's basically the exact same thing as Fan switch wiring. Everything works now except when you switch the Tray on in manual, only the Tray motor runs. To get the cooling tray fan to run you have to turn the Fan switch on also. I used a DPDT switch for the Tray switch and put the 2nd pole in series with one of the wires that powers the main cooling fan so that power can go to the fan when Tray switch is in the Auto (normal operation) position, and when the Tray motor is switched to manual on, the power to the main fan is interrupted. This is so that if you're doing back to back roasts or melange roasts you can cool the beans without the main fan cooling the roast. Just finished making all these changes and test running the roaster and everything works fine now. RAF-1 Extreme (modified B-2K) Hottop with HTC+TC4C, HG-One grinder, Bezzera Strega.
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| smico |
Posted on 09/16/2014 5:45 AM
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1/2 Pounder Posts: 262 Joined: December 17, 2011 |
This is my solution to power fan manually. Cut the fan cable, connect fan side to the common pins, and then choose power source between HT and external source. Regards, Miroslav
smico attached the following image:
Hottop B2 + HTC, Cremina 83, OE Pharos, Brewtus IIIR, Baratza Vario
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| turtle |
Posted on 09/16/2014 9:14 AM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 652 Joined: November 06, 2013 |
Quote okmed wrote: OK, I've found my problem and the cure. The 8 conductor wiring harness with the switches spliced in, has to be plugged into the "Hottop Main Circuit Board", with the "common (centre) terminal" of the Fan switch going to the Red wire at the "Main Circuit Board" plug. Basically it's exactly the same as ciel-007 has documented but you have to make sure the harness is between the "HTC and the Main Circuit Board". The SPST Tray switch that connects the Yellow wire to the Black wire has to be replaced with a SPDT switch, similar to the Fan switch (but not necessary to have centre off position). The Yellow wire has to be cut and the "common (centre) terminal" has to go to the Yellow wire at the "Main Circuit Board" plug. It's basically the exact same thing as Fan switch wiring. Everything works now except when you switch the Tray on in manual, only the Tray motor runs. To get the cooling tray fan to run you have to turn the Fan switch on also. I used a DPDT switch for the Tray switch and put the 2nd pole in series with one of the wires that powers the main cooling fan so that power can go to the fan when Tray switch is in the Auto (normal operation) position, and when the Tray motor is switched to manual on, the power to the main fan is interrupted. This is so that if you're doing back to back roasts or melange roasts you can cool the beans without the main fan cooling the roast. Just finished making all these changes and test running the roaster and everything works fine now.  And in English this means?!?!?!?! Pretty pictures with plenty of arrows would be sweet 
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee" Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1 Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+ Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3) Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials) Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto Vacuum: Cona - Bodum Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia |
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| smico |
Posted on 09/16/2014 4:10 PM
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1/2 Pounder Posts: 262 Joined: December 17, 2011 |
Actually, it would be very helpful if this solution is posted in Ciel's original thread. I will do that with mine.
Hottop B2 + HTC, Cremina 83, OE Pharos, Brewtus IIIR, Baratza Vario
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| okmed |
Posted on 09/16/2014 5:12 PM
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Newbie Posts: 42 Joined: August 23, 2014 |
Sorry about the "Gobaldy Goop" Turtle. I knew exactly what it meant. Hopefully this drawing will make it clear.
okmed attached the following image:
Edited by okmed on 09/16/2014 5:25 PM RAF-1 Extreme (modified B-2K) Hottop with HTC+TC4C, HG-One grinder, Bezzera Strega.
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| turtle |
Posted on 11/15/2015 1:01 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 652 Joined: November 06, 2013 |
Quote okmed wrote: OK, I've found my problem and the cure. The 8 conductor wiring harness with the switches spliced in, has to be plugged into the "Hottop Main Circuit Board", with the "common (centre) terminal" of the Fan switch going to the Red wire at the "Main Circuit Board" plug. Basically it's exactly the same as ciel-007 has documented but you have to make sure the harness is between the "HTC and the Main Circuit Board". The SPST Tray switch that connects the Yellow wire to the Black wire has to be replaced with a SPDT switch, similar to the Fan switch (but not necessary to have centre off position). The Yellow wire has to be cut and the "common (centre) terminal" has to go to the Yellow wire at the "Main Circuit Board" plug. It's basically the exact same thing as Fan switch wiring. Everything works now except when you switch the Tray on in manual, only the Tray motor runs. To get the cooling tray fan to run you have to turn the Fan switch on also. I used a DPDT switch for the Tray switch and put the 2nd pole in series with one of the wires that powers the main cooling fan so that power can go to the fan when Tray switch is in the Auto (normal operation) position, and when the Tray motor is switched to manual on, the power to the main fan is interrupted. This is so that if you're doing back to back roasts or melange roasts you can cool the beans without the main fan cooling the roast. Just finished making all these changes and test running the roaster and everything works fine now. Quote okmed wrote: Sorry about the "Gobaldy Goop" Turtle. I knew exactly what it meant. Hopefully this drawing will make it clear. Did you ever take in photos of the wiring before you butted it up? Having a difficult time getting my head around the spdt and how you did the dpdt wiring. . Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee" Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1 Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+ Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3) Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials) Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto Vacuum: Cona - Bodum Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia |
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