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Bobby M15's drum


Axel wrote:


Ringo wrote:

I think either one would work but I would think the 1/8 inch would be the one I would pick.

Any thoughts on wall thickness for a 24"x30" double wall drum?

I would think the inner wall would be heavier if supporting the spiders. Wall thickness would probably be determined on the method of construction for the drum.

I do know a double wall cookie sheet bakes better than a plain ole single sheet of steel.
Coffee is a language in itself.

Jackie Chan
OK got one burner fired up and didn't blow myself up. Windy but it worked well. Used low pressure high output regulator.
Coffee is a language in itself.

Jackie Chan
Looks great :-)
I'm getting the other pipe ready and when some fittings I ordered come in I will fire em both up.

I am interested in seeing how they work on low pressure propane. The one I tested has a #52 orifice and .108 burner holes. It puts out a lot of heat.

I had the needle valve set at about 40% and had good flame. It has enough pressure, when opened up, with the one pipe to make the flame dance above the pipe so it should work well with both pipes.

We'll see!
Coffee is a language in itself.

Jackie Chan
I am getting the other burner welded up and set up so I should see how both work off of the low pressure high output reg. From the one I fired up a couple weeks ago it looks like it will be a go

I am also finishing up getting the parts together to regulate a needle valve gas adjustment with a small DC motor connected to the valve knob which is flat.

I am going to also control, in the same manner, the air damper, drum speed and cooling tray. I will use a Click PLC to control the whole process. Some Clicks have RS-485 ModBus RTU port which connects up just fine with Artisan.

This will be a good first start on what I'm sure will be a long path down a dark road for a bit. But hey, what's life if not one big challenge! Right!

BBQ grill
Coffee is a language in itself.

Jackie Chan
Making progress sloooooly. LOL! Finally got the other burner together and tested and it works well on low pressure high output regulator.

I will have to wait until I get the rest of the roaster together to see if I get the temps I want from it. I am really trying to get it done by spring. I roast outside so winter time is a drag. I may eventually change it over to natural gas and bring it inside, but this is what I got going for now.

Little hard to see in the light I had.
Coffee is a language in itself.

Jackie Chan
Getting a little farther along. Working on the cooler now.

for some reason I am having trouble posting pics

Got pics to work
Brain is slowwww

Next will be the bean chute greenman
Edited by BobbyS on 08/18/2017 6:45 PM
OK, making some headway. slow but steady lol. got the bearing brace made and cutout the opening for the bean chute. also made an adapter for the cooing blower to fit on the bottom of this pot.

if I get some welding stuff delivered tomorrow I will make the bean mixing paddles which (will attach onto the arm holders in the photo) and the actual bean chute. here some photos.

a lot involved in this cooling tray. many parts to fabricate
Looking good! Looking forward to seeing the whole package come together. No pressure here limb

1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
Thanks,Lol, I am too. I need to get a propane pressure gauge for the burners, as in testing mine, it seems I hit full on in about 2 turns or on my needle valve. then it will open about 3 more turns but I don't think flow increases, therefor no increase in heat. I am using low pressure high output reg.
For a setup using a low pressure regulator (11" H2O feeding your needle valve), this pressure gauge should be in the right pressure range for you.

If after a few roasts you don't quite have the BTU's you'd like at 2 turns open, drill out your burner orifice one drill size larger.

1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
Thank you Allen
I am working on my cooling tray. I am using perforated carbon steel with 1/8" holes and the beans hang up on the edges of the holes.

I am going to try and sand it with some fine grit sand paper and hope the edges get rounded some. I don't know what else to try. I don't want to Dremel every hole.
That is one great machine. I wonder if you could put some rocks inside and let the agitator spin them, or scotchbright pads on the arms.
All you need in life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is sure. Mark Twain
The scrubber idea is what I was thinking. What is hanging up is broken beans on the holes.

What I am going to try is using some green scrubber pad material on an orbital sander to round out the sharp top edge on the hole. I found some 5 inch pads on Amazon.

the paddles are made of food grade Teflon on the area where they touch the cooling tray so they slide real well.
Ok, still fighting the stirring paddles on the cooling tray. I used a countersink and took the edge off the top of the holes and sanded the surface with fine grit paper. Then I put a fine grit green scrubber pad on my orbital sander and worked it over and it is smooth.

The *%$#* thumbdown beans still jam it up. The beans will not slide smoothly over the surface. I have changed the angle of the stirring paddles in relation to the tray surface and nothing has helped. The only thing I can think of is making a new cooling tray with smaller holes but then I won't get as much airflow.

If anyone has any ideas I am open to suggestions.
I am thinking that the thickness of the cooling tray may be what is the issue. It is .125 thick and maybe a thinner material, say .035 would not give the beans as much to hang up on.
I had some thin perforated SS laying around so I quickly cut out another cooling tray. Thinner material didn't make any difference.

I am going to take Ringo's suggestion and put some scotchbright pads on the bean paddles and let it go around for a week or 2. Maybe it will smooth and wallow out the hole on the right area.
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