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allenb
10/03/2022 12:06 PM
HI Michael, go to consumer zone, java trading company and first post is basic rules. PM me with any needed clarifications. Cheers

Michael Kirkpatrick
10/03/2022 11:47 AM
Good morning! what would be the best way to post a coffee roaster for sale? Thanks

renatoa
10/03/2022 2:12 AM
@ittiponcr and welcome cup adrianalindgren

renatoa
10/01/2022 2:13 AM
@Michael Kirkpatrick, welcome !

renatoa
09/29/2022 2:15 AM
Welcome, @vincent33, sihar and plf5 coffee drink

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Costa Rica Profile - comments please
turtle
Just finished roasting 400 grams of Costa Rica Honey Processed.

Waiting for the roaster to cool down so I can put it away so thought to ask the members to evaluate this roast for me.

Other than the short roast time of 10:21 what do you see wrong/right about this roast

What would you recommend to improve it?

Roaster: SF-1 (1 lb drum roaster)
Beans: Costa Rica honey processed
Green weight: 400 grams
Roasted weight: 340 grams
Preheat: 300 F
Drop: 410 F

i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u414/turtle-web/food/coffee/roasts/artisan_graphs/10-22-2015_HM_costa-rica_honey_zpsx8kdmjss.png

i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u414/turtle-web/food/coffee/roasts/artisan_graphs/10-22-2015_CR_report_zpsinruflhd.gif
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum
Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
 
billsey
Looks like it might have been too gentle during te drying phase and too aggressive during the yellow. I would have put more heat early so I could back off later, smoothing the ROR into something more approaching a straight line sloping down. Perhaps closer to 4:30, 3:45, 2:15?
 
turtle

Quote

billsey wrote:

Looks like it might have been too gentle during te drying phase and too aggressive during the yellow. I would have put more heat early so I could back off later, smoothing the ROR into something more approaching a straight line sloping down. Perhaps closer to 4:30, 3:45, 2:15?


Thank you.

I've been pre-heating to 300 F lately to try to get the charge to start of dry time down. I pre-heat for 30 minutes with the burner set to 20% to get everything to a stable roasting temperature before turning up to 80% around 2 minutes before I charge to make sure there is enough power when the cold beans hit the hot drum. Before I charged at 250 F and my roasts ran 13-14 minutes.

I kept the burners at 80% from charge through start of first crack, opening the dampers full during dry (240-325 +/-). End of dry I closed dampers (burners still @ 80%). At the start of first crack I dropped the burners to 50% with dampers full open then shut the burners off about a minute before dropping the roast.

I was afraid I needed more heat at the start.

I'll need to fabricate a baffle between the burner chamber and the SSRs as I notice that the case on one SSR is starting to show signs of heat (not melting but getting shiny... stage just before melting). Then I should be able to use more burner without worrying about destroying one of the SSRs.

There's always something :(
Edited by turtle on 10/23/2015 7:35 AM
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum
Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
 
zeece
Mick, can you describe the dampers you are using? The SF-1 has the cooling damper that when in the cooling position essentially eliminates air flow through the drum. I'm assuming that is what you mean. Newer SF-1s have an added damper in the exhaust tube near the cyclone but I don't think you have this on yours (yet). By open (100%) do you mean in the cooling position?
 
turtle
My SF-1 has a flap that covers the tube going to the cyclone at the bean drop funnel as well as the lower bean cooling damper.

Closing the bean drop (closing the flap over the cyclone tube) and opening the bean cooling flap stops air flow out of the roasting chamber and allows for the fastest rise in temperature. With no air flow from the fan all I get is convection up the loading chute which is not much.

I use both in conjunction (both at the same time flowing air, and stopping air flow)
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum
Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
 
zeece
Thanks for the description. Never thought of the bean flap as a damper!
 
turtle

Quote

zeece wrote:

Thanks for the description. Never thought of the bean flap as a damper!


Give the combo a chance next roast and watch your BT/ET temps. You will find you have more temp rise if you stop air flow during times you want a faster temp rise like after you drop your green and at the end of dry running up to first crack.

I move more air during the drying stage and the crack stage when things start smoking.
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum
Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
 
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