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Panel Display Failure
I agree with Jack. Your issue is more than likely outside of the roaster in your house wiring.

The solenoid may look like a short for a quick instant which is causing the house safety to trip.

Here in the US we do not have these devices on the main circuit, only on branch circuits that are near water sources (kitchen, bath, and outside).

I put in a dedicated 20 amp circuit for my hottop/behmor and when I built the SF-1 electric I wired a separate 30 amp 240vac 4 conductor circuit. Both of these were shorter than 4 feet from the main panel with nothing else on them.

Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum
Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia


JackH wrote:I think when you eject, the solenoid may create a disturbance that trips the RCD.


turtle wrote:The solenoid may look like a short for a quick instant which is causing the house safety to trip.

I would agree except that I managed to trip the RCD once when the solenoid was not connected.


JackH wrote:Is it possible that the RCD is too sensitive because of a fault with the device?


turtle wrote:I agree with Jack. Your issue is more than likely outside of the roaster in your house wiring.

The RCD has a history of being very touchy with certain appliances and tripping for no apparent reason so even though I'm very reluctant to blame the device, it's starting to move up the list of possibilities.

However, as you've suggested, Jack, I'm going to move the roaster to my other RCD. That RCD has never tripped to my knowledge and it is protecting two swimming pool pumps. If it trips that one, then the finger will point back to the roaster.

I think some states in Australia require residential RCDs, Jack, but I don't believe that NSW does. I wouldn't live in a house without one, though.

Interesting that the US is different, turtle. Is that perhaps because your 120V supply is perceived to be less hazardous than our 240V? Your dedicated circuits sound excellent. I have spoken to some home roasters in the US who were struggling to find enough electrical power for effective roasting.

Thanks to both for your continued support and advice.
Well, I just carried out my first "real" roast since I've replaced the hardware (since January in fact). It was plugged into the second RCD and I had a fan, gloves, eye protection all to hand, just in case, but it wasn't needed.

Eject happened as it should - no glitches. It proved nothing concerning any faults with the roaster or the lack thereof but hopefully it will just keep working. If I get through another few weeks with no hiccups, then I'll replace the main RCD.

I did notice a couple of differences with the new panel. There is now only a 10 second "beep, beep" countdown at the end of the cooling cycle instead of 20 seconds (no big deal) but the significant change is that the eject solenoid is powered down after half a minute or so and the door closes. The old panel used to hold the solenoid powered up for the entire 4 minutes of cool down. This is definitely a worthwhile improvement in my opinion.

The real problem now is that I've been roasting for the last 4 months with a cheap heat gun, a stainless bowl and a wooden spoon. Very little control, a super fast roast with little or no time between 1st and 2nd crack and we've been really enjoying the results! Maybe it's telling me that I need to experiment a lot more with the Hottop.
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