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HotTop = DOA = RIP
turtle
Well it had to happen eventually :(

My old model B friend is now dead.

Plug it in.... blinks...

Link to Video ---> https://youtu.be/...

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Edited by turtle on 11/20/2016 9:26 AM
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum
Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
 
snwcmpr
Morse code for "Fix me please!"
--------------
Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."

As Abraham Lincoln said "Do not trust everything you read on the internet".
 
turtle

Quote

snwcmpr wrote:

Morse code for "Fix me please!"


It probably needs a model B control panel but Hottop no longer supplies this part (they've been out of stock for years now). I've been fighting a dying control panel for a few years.

Options are:

1) Buy an upgrade to B2-K

2) Buy an upgrade to B2-K+

3) Buy a new roaster (Hottop, Quest, Husky, OR ????)


Too bad as the roaster is in fine condition other than this new DOA issue.

.
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum
Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
 
lparsons21
Given that the upgrades are more than just a control panel, I would think that either upgrade would be a more cost effective way.
Lloyd
 
Randy G
Just to be sure: There were some early KN-8828B-K control panels that were labeled as KN-8828. Do you have the flat button NTC temperature sensor or the K-probe thermocouple (see http://www.hottopusa.com/modelID.html to identify your model specifically).

I believe that the "E t" code shown in the video you linked means that the control panel is not reading the thermocouple (there is also an E t1 code, but I think they are the same thing). You might try removing the control panel and disconnecting then reconnecting the plug for the temperature sensor to improve the connection and if you have the NTC sensor, remove the top cover of the roaster and do the same for the two spade connectors on the back of the sensor. Those may need cleaning. make sure that connectors are tight on the male tabs when reinstalling them. If that doesn't fix the problem then the control panel is likely bad.

Contact me at [email protected] and we will go through your choices if the above doesn't solve the problem.

Life's too short to drink bad coffee.
 
turtle
Pulling the button sensor plug from the panel yields the same response.

I'll break the roaster down and see if the wires are still solid at the sensor.

I get the red light on the main board lit even with the error flashing.

THANKS!!!
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum
Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
 
Randy G
The red LED on the mainboard indicates that it sees line voltage. There is a second one (not on all models I think) that indicates that the heating element circuit is energized. The E t" error can be from a bad or disconnected or poorly connected NTC temperature sensor, or the error can be from a bad control panel. The NTC sensors have an excellent track record and having one fail is extremely rare.

Life's too short to drink bad coffee.
 
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