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Modifying a Bread Machine 2 - Re-Wiring
Bread Machine Wiring Made Simple

So you got this great bargain on a bread machine at the local thrift store, eh? Then you got it home and tried it out. It pulsed; it paused, it just sat there. This was supposed to be so simple.
Can?t I just turn off all those ?smart? specialty electronics? Nope. Well, not easily anyway. Can I get around them and just have the motor stir the beans? Yep. Read on.

This article is on how to strip down the wiring of a bread machine to just the motor. It?s really fairly simple once you get the basic ideas presented here.

Caveat -- The usual warnings apply. If you don?t have a basic understand about how electricity works and how to use it safely, this is not for you. If you have some experience in re-wiring some household appliances or in basic electrical circuitry, read on. If you are a minor, get adult supervision. The biggest hazard is fire, or conceivably, an explosion. But then there is also a risk of shock, burns, even death! Be careful.

More likely, a wrong turn will lead to a blown fuse (have a spare or know where your circuit-breaker panel is, in advance). I work outdoors and I use a computer ?power strip? with a built-in circuit breaker. I feel so smug every time I don?t have to make that trip through a dark house to find the circuit breaker panel in the basement.

The second most likely unsuccessful outcome is that will just sit there and not work.

A third outcome is that it will work, but the motor will run backwards. That is a little harder to achieve, but entirely possible, especially if you are color blind.

Here is the basic wiring diagram for the simplified circuitry.
David attached the following image:

Edited by David on 06/21/2007 9:58 PM
Using a river analogy, the source of the current stream is the AC IN wire, which starts at the plug. It flows into the motor and the stream divides. One half simply goes back to the plug, while the other flows through the Start Capacitor. The two branches of the river rejoin to form the AC OUT and flow on out through the wide prong on the wall Plug. (These simple AC motors need the Start Capacitor to give them a ?kick start? to get the motor rotating. This branch of the river gets switched off inside the motor once it is rotating.)

The river flows in, divides into two working streams, rejoins, and flows out. So, what?s so hard about that? Not much rally, when the circuitry is reduced to those elements. The trick is to reduce the bundle of wires to those simple elements. That is what the next section is about. The pictures make it pretty clear and there is a detailed, real-world example of how to do it. Once these simple elements are identified, all of the rest of the electronics can be discarded.

The point in the diagram that says ?On/Off SWITCH goes here? is the place in the circuit that all of the electronic controls are located. They also control the heater circuit, but we are assuming that the heater will not be used. They throw more wires and more colors into the mix, but they will all be tossed once the main elements are identified.
On to the Examples

No matter how complicated it all looks, this example shows all that needs to be left after all of the electronics are discarded. The Second Example shows the same circuitry, but the red and blue colors are reversed. There is no standard use of colors, so use them just to help follow the AC IN, AC OUT, and the Starter Circuit.
David attached the following image:
The Second Example:
David attached the following image:
Let?s work one Example through. The electronics have already been discarded, but they are the reason for some of the extra wires.

Here is the Third Example:
David attached the following image:
The Third Example looks more complicated, but it is essentially the same.

Once again there are three wires coming from the motor: White, Red, and Blue. The wire to the wall is also white, just to keep us on our toes.

Let?s trace the circuit. After branching off the wall wire, the topmost White wire to the motor is the AC IN, The three Blue wires form the AC OUT and go out via the Black wire to the wall cord. (The Black wire went to the electronics and will be removed in a later step.)
While we?re on our toes, please notice that the Red wire coming out of the motor connects to a Green wire on its way to the Start Capacitor. We don?t want this to be too simple after all.

So, let?s follow the circuit around. The ?juice? comes in via the White wire that goes into the motor. Then the river splits inside the motor and comes as the Blue and Red wires. For our purposes, the Blue wire is the AC OUT. It goes to a junction and then flows to the Black wire and then on to the other side of the white wall cord. This is the side of the wall cord that has a striped texture and eventually makes its way to the big prong side of the wall plug. (If you haven?t noticed this texture before, do check it out before you start rewiring.)

Meanwhile the ?juice? in Red wire from the motor goes to a connector and on into a Green Wire, which in turn goes on to the Start Capacitor. After it emerges from the other prong of the Start Capacitor, it goes on out through a blue wire to join the main AC OUT Blue wire described above. So, conceptually this is the same circuit as shown in the wiring Diagram. There are color changes and excessive runs of wire that can be trimmed out once the circuitry is understood.

If you are still reading this then either you already know this stuff or your are really invested in hacking your bread machine! Onward!

When opening up a machine for the first time, I quickly look for the wires coming out of the motor. Almost always there are three wires here. The colors vary, but they lead to the same circuit elements described above: AC IN, AC OUT, and the loop that goes to the Starter Capacitor. Usually the easiest path to find is the one that goes to the Starter Capacitor. From there the path goes to the AC OUT and the wall plug. Along the way out it joins the main stream of AC OUT from the motor. The colors here should match one another as they form the AC OUT.

The remaining wire to the motor will be the AC IN. It can be traced back to the wall wire, but probably not very easily. (This is why I start with the AC OUT end of the circuit.) As you trace the AC IN upstream you will hit the jungle of electronic controls. Note where that is and jump over to the incoming AC wire. Trace its flow to the electronic jungle. You will then have the point of entry to and the point of exit from the ?jungle.? Join those two wires together and discard the jungle. Game over.

That?s all there is to it. You can simply connect the wires or you can wire in an On/Off switch. In any case there will probably be some extra lengths of wires that can be eliminated.

Those are the basics. Enjoy, and feel free to post questions or corrections.


I've been threatening to build one of these for a while now. Looks like you taken all my excuses away :|

You'll have to get used to the idea of being able to roast a pound at a time. ;)


I really appreciate your instructions and photos. It made my breadmachine mod a breeze! Just need to fabricate a metal paddle, and I'm all set!

Thank you,

How should the mod go if the motor is DC and anything resembling a start cap lives on the logic board? I tried wiring the AC straight to the motor that causes just a buzzing sound.



tom957 wrote:
How should the mod go if the motor is DC and anything resembling a start cap lives on the logic board? I tried wiring the AC straight to the motor that causes just a buzzing sound.

I'd take the buzzing to mean it needs a capacitor.
I haven't seen a DC motor in a bread machine before. :(
What brand/model do you have? Have you got pix?
Edited by David on 03/31/2008 9:07 AM
I just looked at your web page.
It looks like you'll be getting another one at Ye Olde Thrift Store. ;)

Thanks for the quick reply.

Ha, that was the one I killed yesterday. The new one is a Toastmaster TBR2.
tom957 attached the following image:

Edited by David on 05/05/2008 1:20 PM


tom957 wrote:Ha, that was the one I killed yesterday. The new one is a Toastmaster TBR2.

Good luck with the new one.

The one with the DC motor, what brand was it?
The above picture is the motor from the Oster, my old one. The Toastmaster basically has the same motor :P


bvwelch wrote:

I really appreciate your instructions and photos. It made my breadmachine mod a breeze! Just need to fabricate a metal paddle, and I'm all set!

Thank you,


David, once again, your instructions are great! I just modified a new (to me) bread maker-- it had a bunch of strange wiring, and the starting capactior was thru-hole soldered onto a circuit board, but by following your guide-- wide prong is AC out, and tracing down the leads to the capacitor and motor, made it a breeze to zip the extra wiring out of the way.

Thank you,

I'm glad it helped, Bill.

I'm still planning to make a brief foray over to Alabama in the next month or two, by the 4th of July weekend at the latest.

Still up in the hills near Ft Payne?
Oops, I didn't mean do you have a still up in the hills. Shock

Um, you know what I mean.;) Grin

Yep, Ft. Payne isn't that far, maybe 30 or 40 miles. Hope we can meet then.

I like this new bread machine-- it is tall rather than low and wide, so I think I'm getting better bean temps since the TC is buried deeper. Perhaps when I've got more experience, the other bread maker will be OK too. But for now it will just be a back-up machine.

WOW! I had never seen a DC motor in a bread machine!
That means you should be able to control the speed?
Does it have diodes in the circuit to change the Ac into DC? That's the only way I know how to do it.
A light dimmer may be all that's needed to vary the RPM'S.


I finally found a good bread machine with the proper motor/start cap at the Goodwill today. It's a Breadman TR2500BC, and thanks to the guide, I got it wired up properly on the first try! I also have my thermoprobe wired in so that the readout is mounted nicely where the "smart electronics" used to be. Lastly, the nozzle to my heatgun fits perfectly in the now glass-free sight hole. Now I just need to wire in a switch and all should be prime.
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