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Homeroasters - Home Roasting Coffee Community » BUILDING A ROASTER » Bread Machine Roasters

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Page 5 of 5: 1 2 3 45

Modifying a Bread Machine 2 - Re-Wiring
southern_roast	#101 Posted on 10/27/2013 9:56 PM
Newbie Posts: 14 Joined: October 22, 2013	CoryZ - Thank you a bunch!! I got it working! While waiting on this thread, I grabbed another $5 bread machine from Goodwill. Now I have 2 different machines working! I'll post more below.


southern_roast	#102 Posted on 10/27/2013 10:06 PM
Newbie Posts: 14 Joined: October 22, 2013	Here are the 2 machines wired up southern_roast attached the following images:


southern_roast	#103 Posted on 10/27/2013 10:08 PM
Newbie Posts: 14 Joined: October 22, 2013	The second machine was much like David's first wiring picture. I decided to make the machines look 'somewhat' decent, so I started to spray them. I used high heat 1200F paint. One is black and the other, silver. southern_roast attached the following images:


southern_roast	#104 Posted on 10/27/2013 10:12 PM
Newbie Posts: 14 Joined: October 22, 2013	For the heater, I bought one from Harbor Freight (the black one) and a Wagner from Lowes ($25). I like the Wagner because it is small (and also it holds well on the metal lift on the pan) but the Harbor Freight one was cheaper ($12) and heats the beans better. Both are 1500W. southern_roast attached the following images:


southern_roast	#105 Posted on 10/27/2013 10:16 PM
Newbie Posts: 14 Joined: October 22, 2013	I tried both and the beans turned out fine, but did not agitate enough to be even. I found a random metal piece from the very first bread maker I found (but did not have a capacitor, so I kept it just in case for parts) and cut it in half. Then I used epoxy weld to hold it on to the paddles. southern_roast attached the following images:


southern_roast	#106 Posted on 10/27/2013 10:17 PM
Newbie Posts: 14 Joined: October 22, 2013	Now the beans are WELL agitated. I made the additional metal piece a bit lower so it moved beans that got trapped under the original paddle. southern_roast attached the following images:


southern_roast	#107 Posted on 10/27/2013 10:20 PM
Newbie Posts: 14 Joined: October 22, 2013	For cooling, I found a neat fan in Goodwill that sits on the floor and shoots air upward. Lucky for me, it fits just fine in the metal body of the very first machine that I couldn't use. Also, I found a colander that's square and sits well right on top! southern_roast attached the following images:


southern_roast	#108 Posted on 10/27/2013 10:22 PM
Newbie Posts: 14 Joined: October 22, 2013	Here's a pic of the finished black machine. Also I cut out the side and placed the switch in it. Glued it down with the epoxy weld. southern_roast attached the following images:


southern_roast	#109 Posted on 10/27/2013 10:24 PM
Newbie Posts: 14 Joined: October 22, 2013	Here's the second machine. I cut out the electronic reader area and fit the switch there. Again, glued it in. southern_roast attached the following images:


southern_roast	#110 Posted on 10/27/2013 10:26 PM
Newbie Posts: 14 Joined: October 22, 2013	I added spray paint to all 3 (although NOT the best paint job as it was a bit rushed). southern_roast attached the following image:


southern_roast	#111 Posted on 10/27/2013 10:37 PM
Newbie Posts: 14 Joined: October 22, 2013	As you can see the difference... the lighter pic is the first time with original paddles and Wagner heat gun. The second 2 pics are with the modified paddles and Harbor Freight heat gun. Both are around 12 minutes of roasting. Thank you all for the wonderful posts previously as it helped a great deal. I wanted to return the favor by posting these. And special thanks to CoryZ for the quick response! southern_roast attached the following images:


somegeek	#112 Posted on 06/07/2014 12:20 PM
Newbie Posts: 44 Joined: November 16, 2009	Been nearly five years now and this is still going strong. Only change I've made was to replace the foil gasket between the pots with 1" fiberglass braided fireplace gasket...


icantroast	#113 Posted on 10/10/2014 11:39 AM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 71 Joined: January 11, 2014	Hey Mr. David, I require your assistance! My intuition tells me to cut the blue and white wires at the plug (labeled motor) and splice those together, but I wanted to be absolutely sure before I do! Here are some pictures so I could get your advice, if you're willing, of course! Thanks! https://imgur.com... -Jim


David	#114 Posted on 10/14/2014 3:44 PM
1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 690 Joined: October 27, 2005	Here is what is going on in your machine as close as I can tell. The Blue and the White wires at the bottom of your picture are the ones that will go to the wall plug. An On-Off switch can go in the White wire somewhere. I put annotations onto your picture. The basic circuit is White In and Blue Out. I also brought over a copy of the first diagram in this thread and put in the colors for your machine. Basically the White wire is the AC IN and the Red wire splits off from it, making it the AC IN to the Starting Capacitor. The Blue Wires join to form a common AC OUT. The juice will flow in through the White wire and then to the Red wire while the motor is at rest. The juice stored up in the Starting Capacitor helps get the motor spinning. A centrifugal switch in the motor immediately disconnects the Red wire as soon as the motor starts to spin. No more starting circuit. Then it's just the White In through the moitor to the Blue Out as long as the motor is spinning. I hope that is enough to get your machine up and going. David attached the following images:


icantroast	#115 Posted on 10/14/2014 8:56 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 71 Joined: January 11, 2014	David, you are the best; a veritable master of wiring! Allen and lawnmowerman got me sorted out a day or two ago so I actually got it done last night, but looking back it really is as simple as your diagram(s). Allen told me to put the switch between the blue and hot wires, so that's what I did...seems to work ok and I hope that's alright! For some reason I keep forgetting that it's just basically the two wires from the plug and the two wires coming out of the motor that are spliced together. It's probably since each breadmaker is slightly different and have sooo much extra (unnecessary) stuff. I think I'll probably always ask, though, just so I dont burn down my apartment or anything! Thanks a ton! Edit: if I should move this to my own thread please let me know! -Jim


David	#116 Posted on 10/15/2014 3:51 AM
1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 690 Joined: October 27, 2005	You got two different answers and both work. There is an actual difference, however, in terms of the safety of the machine and its shock hazard. The chassis is part of the circuit, hopefully, the "grounded" side. But there is no ground wire, no third wire, to insure safety. If you have a neon light tester you can connect one probe to a known ground (e.g, a water pipe) and then touch the other to the case, at an unpainted place if possible. If it glows, then there is voltage on the chassis of the machine. This can give you a tingle if you are grounded. The other way of wiring will not. Part of this equation is whether you connect the white wire (in your case) to the small or large prong of the wall plug. IOW, if you want to test this, and I think you should, use the neon light tester on your wall socket and see which opening (large or small) is glowing relative to a known ground. Then without plugging your machine into the wall. follow that "hot" lead (regardless of whether it is the large or small prong) up through your wiring. That's the wire that should have the ON/OFF switch in it. Place your ON/OFF switch on the "hot" side, so the chassis will not be "live." That is the safest way to do it, regardless of the colors of the wires.


noblecity	#117 Posted on 03/04/2015 7:55 PM
Newbie Posts: 3 Joined: March 03, 2015	Never posted on any kind of forum before but here it goes. Hello all! Thank you so much David! After reading your posts a few days and looking at my oster bread machine it all clicked! And the motor is spinning perfectly! I've never roasted before but will be getting my green beans on wed. I have a heat gun and thermocouple ready to go. Just wanted to show my appreciation for all the great posts here! Sincerely, W. Waters


staticnetwork	#118 Posted on 02/04/2016 3:54 PM
Newbie Posts: 28 Joined: February 03, 2016	I've done this. I took a bread machine with an AC motor and I wired it to a toggle switch, no waiting for that kneading time! [img]https://flic.kr/p/CRVtg8[/img] [img]https://flic.kr/p/DfPS6X[/img]


jackofalltrades	#119 Posted on 04/02/2019 9:24 PM
Newbie Posts: 2 Joined: April 02, 2019	How I wish I could have read this post. There was something wrong with the wiring of my old bread machine, but I had no idea how to fix it, so I bought a new machine later. What a pity!
	Web

projectbean	#120 Posted on 07/13/2019 9:40 PM
Newbie Posts: 1 Joined: March 12, 2019	Hi (David or anyone here who wants to take a crack at this) -- Brand new roaster here (hopefully) with my first post. I'm hoping it's OK to still post in this old but useful thread. My Breadman has the exact wiring layout and colors as the quoted thread below (post #114 https://forum.hom...post_52722). I hooked it up exactly as David suggests and it works! Yay. But then, I couldn't leave well enough alone and decided to try David's neon-light test. At this point the machine was hardwired (no power switch) and plugged into the wall (running). I alligator clipped one leg of the the neon tester to the grounding rod at my electrical panel, the other I touched to breadmaker chassis while it was running. And the light came on. Hmmmm...That's exactly opposite of what I thought would happen. So I swapped the "in" and "out" wires to opposite of your diagram so the "in/hot" (narrow plug) goes to the blue wire and the out/neutral (wide) plug goes to the white wire. The motor also runs this in this configuration AND neon light is off. Question 1: Does that mean this "backwards" way is that how it should be wired? Q2: If so, I assume this means my switch would go on the blue wire side. By the way, I also did your other neon test to confirm --- yes, the neon light comes on when I plug it onto the small side of my wall outlet. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance, Tim Quote David wrote: Here is what is going on in your machine as close as I can tell. The Blue and the White wires at the bottom of your picture are the ones that will go to the wall plug. An On-Off switch can go in the White wire somewhere. I put annotations onto your picture. The basic circuit is White In and Blue Out. I also brought over a copy of the first diagram in this thread and put in the colors for your machine. Basically the White wire is the AC IN and the Red wire splits off from it, making it the AC IN to the Starting Capacitor. The Blue Wires join to form a common AC OUT. The juice will flow in through the White wire and then to the Red wire while the motor is at rest. The juice stored up in the Starting Capacitor helps get the motor spinning. A centrifugal switch in the motor immediately disconnects the Red wire as soon as the motor starts to spin. No more starting circuit. Then it's just the White In through the moitor to the Blue Out as long as the motor is spinning. I hope that is enough to get your machine up and going.

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