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Modifying a Bread Machine 2 - Re-Wiring
seedlings

Quote

somegeek wrote:
How many watts do these motors draw when moving the coffee beans around? Half way pondering installing a dimmer so smaller batches don't get tossed out... though my test run tonight was only using 6 ounces of roasted beans. Imagine when I get a full 1lb 3oz in there the agitator will have less oomph and won't kick out so many beans?

I had to reduce the size of my agitator(think that is what it's called?) to a short length of 3/16" music wire(seemed like my original was a boat paddle). :P


The breadmaker motors I've seen require a capacitor, so you won't be able to "dim" them, you'd have to get a variable frequency drive.

1 pound is my minimum batch to prevent bean tossing.

CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 11/18/2009 7:20 AM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
bvwelch

Quote

seedlings wrote:
The breadmaker motors I've seen require a capacitor, so you won't be able to "dim" them, you'd have to get a variable frequency drive.
CHAD


Or 'pulse them' on and off, like the original 'dough cycle' mode of the breadmaker. -bill
 
JohnIII
I agree speed control would be nice in a bread machine. Though they are happier with 1/2 lb. and larger loads, I started out roasting 1/4 lb. regularly. Found I had to grind down the paddle a few times, but finally got it to the point I could manage the small loads without slinging beans. The final shape I wound up with is probably 75-80% of the original paddle area. These days, my roast loads are larger, ranging from 1/2 to 1-1/4 lb., and the smaller paddle still works fine.
John
 
somegeek
Thanks for the replies. I roasted a pound today and bean tossing was not an issue. I think with 12oz though, a few beans would be tossed. The small piece of music wire did the trick. I may file off more of the paddle or remove it all together and drill a hole in the middle of the paddle and stick in a piece of music wire. We'll see.
somegeek attached the following image:
somegeek_coffee_roasting_8.jpg

Edited by somegeek on 11/18/2009 8:52 PM
 
somegeek
My first roast result. Looking forward to grinding up a cup of this in the am. The scoop is full of Pete's Costa Rican for color reference(our current favorite). Hopefully my home roasting results can, in time, de-throne the Pete's CR. :)
somegeek attached the following image:
somegeek_coffee_roasting_.jpg

Edited by somegeek on 11/18/2009 8:54 PM
 
John Despres
That looks like a very nice full city + roast there while the Peet's looks to be Vienna.

I suggest you taste your roast over several days and note the changes in flavor as it rests.

I think you'll give up on the commercial roasts very soon.

What breed of coffee did you roast?

John
Edited by John Despres on 11/18/2009 9:15 PM
Respect the bean.
John Despres
Fresh Roast 8, Gene Cafe, JYTT 1k, Quest M3, Mazzer Mini, Technivorm, various size presses and many more brewers.
 
seedlings
How about a picture of the entire roaster? Pretty please?

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
somegeek
John - thanks for the kind words and info. This is from a 4 x 1lb sampler pack from Sweet Maria's. This partiular pound is the Columbian Microlot Mix. I have to admit I was a bit anxious letting the roast go on but kept staring at the Peet's 'reference bean' I brought out with me to the garage to note my progress. :P

Here are pics from my conversion build...

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_1.jpg

I picked up the bread machine from Goodwill for $13 and the measuring bowl and pot for $7.

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_2.jpg

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_3.jpg

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_4.jpg

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_5.jpg

The right switch controls the motor power while the left switch controls the outlet power...

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_6.jpg

I needed something to take up the space between the containers to lock in the air to insulate a bit so some foil did the trick...

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_7.jpg

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_8.jpg

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_10.jpg

I still need to build a bracket for the heat gun and maybe a partial cover for the bowl. I also need to add some bicycle inner tube pieces under the mixing bowl to quiet the chatter as well as to secure said bowl to the machine base with a few screws. That will about do it I think for the conversion. :)
Edited by somegeek on 11/18/2009 10:27 PM
 
Koffee Kosmo
Nice progress SG
Have you considered a Turbo Oven as a heat source see this build

http://forum.home...rowstart=0

KK
Edited by Koffee Kosmo on 11/19/2009 12:08 AM
I home roast and I like it. Designer of the KKTO
Roaster Build information
https://homeroast...ad_id=1142

https://docs.goog...lide=id.i0
Blog - http://koffeekosm...gspot.com/

Bezzera Strega, Mazzer Robur Grinder, Pullman Tamper Convex,
(KKTO) Turbo Oven Home Roaster.
 
somegeek

Quote

Koffee Kosmo wrote:
Nice progress SG
Have you considered a Turbo Oven as a heat source see this build

http://forum.home...rowstart=0

KK


I'd seen those but not considered it. Will see how my technique works with a heat gun for now. :)
 
David
Nice follow through, somegeek.

The base and that wiring box are nice additions. You'll be very happy that you took the time to do that. I like the way you made the double-walled bowl. If the outside of the bowl gets too hot, you can always go back and add some insulation.

Regarding the Turbo Oven. If you ever decide to do that, there are two key things to consider. Since the heating element and fan assembly drops down into the bowl, it must be wide enough not only to fit, but also to have room for the heated air to come out its sides and down into the bowl. The second is that the bowl must be deep enough allow for the full expansion of the beans plus an inch or so. Otherwise the beans will stop agitating and the top layer will scorch. [Don't ask.] Just notice how full it gets when you are roasting the maximum batch size with your heatgun. Then measure how far down from the top rim it is and jot that down for future reference.

Great job. Please keep us posted on your roasting progress.
 
somegeek
Finished up the lid/heat gun holder. This should shorten my roast times and help with temp regulation. It's easy enough to tip the gun/lid to view the beans under the lid. I may cut a 1/2" or so edge off the lid if needed later on for viewing.

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_11.jpg

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_12.jpg

The heat gun's position balances it nicely across the lid.

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_13.jpg

I dig on the fact that this acts like a heat shield for the gun as well so the plastic won't take so much blow back heat.

All done with this for now I think.
Edited by somegeek on 11/22/2009 12:16 PM
 
David

Quote

somegeek wrote:I dig on the fact that this acts like a heat shield for the gun as well so the plastic won't take so much blow back heat.

BTW, do you have a designated exit for all that heated air?
Just wondering....B)
 
seedlings

Quote

David wrote:

Quote

somegeek wrote:I dig on the fact that this acts like a heat shield for the gun as well so the plastic won't take so much blow back heat.

BTW, do you have a designated exit for all that heated air?
Just wondering....B)


KK and Farmroast don't use exhust vents for their turbo ovens - might not be required as long as there's cool intake air??? Not sure about the Heatgun.

I put a 1" hole in the back of the breadmaker for chaff/air exit.

CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 11/22/2009 9:55 PM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
somegeek

Quote

David wrote:

Quote

somegeek wrote:I dig on the fact that this acts like a heat shield for the gun as well so the plastic won't take so much blow back heat.

BTW, do you have a designated exit for all that heated air?
Just wondering....B)


Good question... I trimmed off ~3/8" of the lip on each side of the lid next to the handle (initially so it'd be able to fit) and the side opposite of the heat gun entry is open roughly 3/16". I verified this exhaust area is sufficient by turning the gun on on high speed and lifting the lid. I heard no appreciable pitch difference in the gun's motor with the lid up or down so I am assuming these gaps are sufficiently exhausting the airflow. :)
Edited by somegeek on 11/22/2009 11:09 PM
 
somegeek
Did my first roast with the lid/HG holder in place today(3rd roast for me).

~15oz (spilled some beans onto the ground)

0:00 - gun at 10
4:45 - steam
9:20 - FC
10:00 - backed off heat to 8
11:15 - Quiet FC finishing / SC started (I think)
14:00 - pulled with SC still rolling

More consistent and darker - Vienna I am thinking?

Will be nice to get a few more roasts logged to figure out some 'rule of thumb' temp settings and timing.

Also thinking a 1lb 4oz roast will hold a little more heat?

At any rate, this lid was the ticket to getting the heat regulated and a more consistent roast. :)
Edited by somegeek on 11/23/2009 4:06 PM
 
David
In another thread

Quote

somegeek wrote:I am looking forward to trying some different beans/roasts.

TANZANIA PEABERRY - Kilimanjaro
PAPUA NEW GUINEA - Kimel A (estate)
SUMATRA MANDHELING
Uganda Bugisu

A nice selection.
The profile suggested above [with the two periods of lower heat] will work very well with the two E. African coffees on your list. OTOH, I wouldn't be inclined to stretch the drying phase on Sumatra. Expect it to have a soft sounding First Crack and a color that is lighter than most other coffees.

The PNG. Ah, the PNG. It can be so delicate and nuanced. ThumbsUp
I'd save that one for a bit and practice on the others. Then I'd try various profiles on it. PNG can be very rewarding for the patient roaster.
Edited by David on 11/24/2009 6:57 AM
 
David

Quote

somegeek wrote: Did my first roast with the lid/HG holder in place today(3rd roast for me). This lid was the ticket to getting the heat regulated and a more consistent roast. :)

Back on topic:

That lid will also allow a larger paddle size. There is no harm in having the beans flying around once you have the lid in place. By the same token, if the beans don't move enough, the larger batches will tend to roast unevenly.

One lesson I learned modifying stirring rods was that if the stirrer does not get the very, very bottom layer moving, those beans will not get up to the top to get their share of heat coming down from the heatgun. I eventually ended up with a stirring arm that has about 1/2" width and was bent/twisted back like a propeller and almost touched the bottom of the pan. This gave the vertical agitation needed to get an very even roast with batches over one pound.
 
somegeek
Thanks, David - noted. :)
 
scarter11
I found a Regal Bread Maker @ one of our Good Will thrift stores, and I can say that it is very simple to re-wire. The heating element, motor, and all sensors go back to labeled computer style plugs on the main logic board. Both positive and negative wires for the capacitor are fed directly from the motor, so no need to worry about that. By the color of the wires, I easily wired the motor and heater in parallel to the main ac, with a switch on the heater.

It doesn't get quite hot enough with the internal heater alone, so I plan on adding a 500 Watt Halogen lid for quiet operation. Would I be able to use a standard 500 Watt dimmer on the Halogen bulb?
 
seedlings

Quote

scarter11 wrote:
I found a Regal Bread Maker @ one of our Good Will thrift stores, and I can say that it is very simple to re-wire. The heating element, motor, and all sensors go back to labeled computer style plugs on the main logic board. Both positive and negative wires for the capacitor are fed directly from the motor, so no need to worry about that. By the color of the wires, I easily wired the motor and heater in parallel to the main ac, with a switch on the heater.

It doesn't get quite hot enough with the internal heater alone, so I plan on adding a 500 Watt Halogen lid for quiet operation. Would I be able to use a standard 500 Watt dimmer on the Halogen bulb?


Yes, but you might want a little beefier dimmer for safety factor.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
scarter11
Actually, the dimmer I currently have is rated at 600 watts.

I may go with a router speed control since the work light requires a 3 prong connection. That will keep me from needing to modify the work light.
 
seedlings

Quote

scarter11 wrote:
Actually, the dimmer I currently have is rated at 600 watts.

I may go with a router speed control since the work light requires a 3 prong connection. That will keep me from needing to modify the work light.


That's a 20% safety factor, so the dimmer would be good-to-go. The ground on your halogen only goes to the metal lamp housing, so if you're going to remove the halogen element and relocate it, you don't need to worry about the ground.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
scarter11
Well, I tried out the Halogen / BM setup last night. I think it went rather well. I didn't try wiring a dimmer on the work lamp. Just used it as the cover unmodded. I'm not sure about the amount of beans I used; it was the last of some Sumatra Mendheling from SM. Probably about a cup and a half.

I started by preheating the unit. Currently, I am just using a oven thermometer that is inserted into the side of the BM, and the tip is just above the stirring arm. For this small amount of beans, it was just measuring air temp. So, I preheated the unit to 300F in about 4 minutes. Poured in the beans and reset my timer. First crack started around the 8 minute mark, but I don't recall the temperature. From time to time throughout the roast, I would just lift the work lamp with it's handle to check on the color of the beans. First crack was easily heard over the stirring noise, but 2nd was not. When the temp reach 500f, I started periodically turning off the BM and listening for 2nd crack. It started at 11:30. Of course I wasn't prepaired to get the beans in my cooling tray, so it went well into 2nd before I got the beans cooled.

We'll see how things go when I get more beans in and can test with a large load.

I'll post some pics when I get off work this evening.

 
seedlings
Yes! Post pictures, and why not start your own thread? Nice job.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
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