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Hottop B-2K Repair - 2 questions
BarryR
I have the B-2K with HTC/TC4 setup

1) For the past couple months, I'd get a minute or so in the occasional roast where the ET curve stopped rising (BT somewhat followed suit), the red light would stay on; it would recover shortly and other than slowing the roast down slightly, the effect was nil. For most of the roasts it worked fine and this didn't happen. I figured either the HTC/TC4 board might be going or the Hottop control board.

Today in the middle of a roast, the curve went flat (eventually down) although the red light stayed on. No heat. I Restarted everything and still no heat.

I did some troubleshooting and am virtually sure it's the Fusible Link. I get an open circuit when I test it with an ohmmeter. The element works (20+ ohms and when I connected it directly to AC it got hot). The control circuit seems to work. I get 120V of the heater element tabs on the control board but when I hit eject it doesn't go to 0 (leakage current).

So - first question - does it make sense that I get 120V even when I hit eject? Is there anything else I need to check? I would have though that fusible links die quick deaths rather than sputtering over months. I may try to run the roaster bypassing the fusible link (just for 10 secs to make sure all else works).

2) Next question - how much of an improvement is the new slightly more powerful element. I can upgrade that for $50 and now's the time since everything's apart. I usually roast ~250 gms. Occasionally 275. Also, my roaster is just over 3 yrs old (probably done almost 600 roasts by now) - what's the typical life on the heating element?
Barry
 
BarryR
So, I bypassed the fusible link and I get 120V to the elements. If I don't bypass it 0V. So troubleshooting's done it's the link and the link only.

The only remaining question is replace fusible link only $20 + s/h or replace the element too ($50 more).
Any suggestions? (I'm leaning toward replacing both).
Barry
 
Randy G
Depending on the range and sensitivity of your meter, 19 or 20 ohms is the correct resistance for the heating element. If the element is not warped, just replace the fusible link.

Life's too short to drink bad coffee.
 
BarryR

Quote

Randy G wrote:

Depending on the range and sensitivity of your meter, 19 or 20 ohms is the correct resistance for the heating element. If the element is not warped, just replace the fusible link.


Thanks!
I figured you might be the man with the answer.
It's 20 ohms.
I'll order just the fusible link.
Barry
 
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