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09/14/2023 1:29 PM
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So I bought a Behmor
So I am new here, however, I have been roasting coffee at home for roughly a year now and decided to upgrade from my whirly pop to a behmor. Not a huge jump, but you do what you can I guess. Anyways, I read the instructions front to back and followed all videos that I could possibly find online. I was more than prepared, and I completely burnt my first batch. Which for the record was a quarter pound of Sulawesi Bone Bone Kalaciri. I did another roast after cleaning everything which was the same weight and coffee, and it turned out decent. I don't exactly enjoy the long cooling times, it seems a bit excessive to me. Does anybody have any tips or advice? Thanks in advance.
Welcome to HRO Chad!

I've used a Behmor for several years and I have never had any luck following the myriad of suggestions by users out there for trying the various combinations of P settings and letter settings. I've found using the 1 lb, P1, A for every roast and just watching time elapsed past first crack to achieve the roast level I'm looking for is as good or sometimes better than any other method.

Unfortunately, without a means of reading bean temperature, you'll need to run some batches through it to determine length of time past first crack to get a handle on timing before hitting the cool button.

1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
Or roast based on air temperature, that works pretty well for me.
Check also this thread for the magical recipe:
Roasters: DIY: TO based IR 640g
Moded commercial: Dieckmann RoestMeister, Nesco, popper(s).
Electrics: TC4ESP, MS6514, USB/Artisan/Apps, PID controllers
Grinders: Arco, Xeoleo ghost burrs, Krinder, vintage PeDe Dienes, MBK Feldgrind
Brew: Flair, Kompresso, Rota Aeropress, Hario Cafeor dripper, Gaggia Mini
Unfortunately, for roasters that use IR exclusively for the heat source, the environment temperature surrounding the wire basket doesn't relate to the amount of heat energy being taken on by the beans.

I routinely crack the door a couple of inches during the final stage of the roast to slow rate of rise after 1C and this drops ET surrounding the drum up to 100 degrees F. The only useful temperature feedback with an IR roaster is bean temperature.

1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
I thought Behmor is mainly convection based ...
With the plus model I find I use the "rosetta stone" when I hear the first "pop" of a bean, then at the end of first crack I stop the roast, reach in with my leather forge gauntlets on, grab the basket and place it over a Patton fan to cool.

I've not had much luck with all of the buttons and settings and just use "seat of the pants" controls and little fear of hot things to get a decent roast.

The Behmor 1600 + is my least favorite of the 3 roasters I own BUT ( big but here....) It is far better than the other options I have available to me up in the great white north....
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum
Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
Thank you all for everything you all have contributed, I have roasted a few more batches since I've posted. I've found some helpful information perusing the internet and I think I've hit a mild understanding. I'm not exactly sure if it's just me, or a steep learning curve from the difference in roasting on a wp to the behmor, but, once there is even the slightest bit of smoke in the chamber I get an err2. So I've started roasting with the front of the door cracked a bit and that tends to help things, as well as regulate the internal temperature.
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