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Temperature tracking
    About to start my fifth roast on new 1600AB. Plan to record temperatures every 60 seconds. Which measurement is more helpful, exhaust temp or chamber wall temp?

    Edit: Just finished. Used exhaust temps but forgot to start the timer on phone then lost track of the app but made progress anyway I think.

    1. Full power to first crack at about 7:30 I think.
    2. Pressed C
    3. P3 - 50% power
    4. ++ (Pressed + twice adding 30 seconds I think.
    5. With 1 minute left Pressed cool and opened door.

    All previous roasts were darker than this one. Judging by color, I think I overshot Full City. Might it be FC+? Although it looks darker in the picture, I'd say the actual color averages about halfway between milk chocolate and dark chocolate.
    Beginning weight was 116 grams. Ending weight 96 grams. 17% loss. No frickin' idea if that's good, bad, or indifferent.
    Any advice or comments will be welcomed as I'm just beginning to figure this stuff out. BBQ grill
    Edited by skilletlicker on 09/07/2019 1:08 PM
    They definitely look darker than I like, more toward the French roast going by the pics.
    17% is also getting a little higher than I car for. Usually 13 - 15% is where I'm at, that depends on the beans an what I roasting for.
    I know nothing about your roaster but here's where I'm usually at.
    Watch your bean color. They should be very pale, as close to white at they are going to get in about three minutes, that's usually about 300 degrees (these temp are based on my air roaster)
    In four minutes I like to see the getting a dark yellow, that's usually around 320 degree
    In five minutes, I like to see the bean getting a light toast or slight cinnamon color. 340
    From here it can get very subjective but south American coffees, I like the have a rolling first crack (this is when getting numbers of cracks and not the very first bean or two around the 9 minute mark and first crack ending around 11 minutes, This is the point I'm going into cool down, which takes about 2 1/2 minutes to get them down to 115f degrees If I'm doing espresso roast, I take them to just before second crack, or if no temp to monitor, I stop as soon as I hear the first snap or two of the second crack.

    There are many ways to roast a bean, this is just my way out of those many ways.
    It boils down to what they taste like when you brew them, and if there are flaws or taste you don't like, you make changes where they need to be to correct those flaws.
    Not sure how fast your roaster can heat the beans but mine can hit first crack in just a few minutes it started off at max. Pushing them too hard, too early will cause uneven roast and you will lots black spots on the beans and tips and the smaller bean will be black also. When you see this scorched spots and beans, you need to slow the draying phase down some.
    Barista Brad
    Hi SkilletLicker!

    Those beans do look a bit dark for what you were going for. I also have the new Behmor 1600 AB. I'd like to share my most popular recipe as judged by several cuppers at parties we have.

    I usually only roast 113 g (1/4 lb) at a time. Keeps the coffee fresher and I get to roast more often!

    1. Preheat with the basket and chafe guard on P1 for 1:45. Any longer and it may lock you out.

    2. Carefully and somewhat quickly remove and load the basket. Use light gloves to prevent burns.

    3. Start the roaster on 1/4 lb and P1. As soon as you get started hit P5 to go into manual mode.

    4. When you hear the first couple of cracks start monitoring the B temp. Try to keep it at 280 - 300 F. You will probably need to go to P4 or P3 for a while.

    5. With first crack going full start your stopwatch. Keep an eye on the B temp and keep it at 280 - 300 F

    6. At 1:10 on your stopwatch start the cooldown cycle.

    Remember that your mileage may vary. There's a LOT of factors at play. I highly suggest you do a taste test with several samples of the same single origin beans. Start with 1C (first crack) + 1:05 then another at 1C + 10, etc until they are too dark for your taste. NEVER go past 2nd crack. You'll end up with charcoal and at risk of a fire.

    Hope that helps!! Happy Roasting...
    I would monitor the air temperature as close as possible outside basket and out of line of sight of IR radiation.
    If such measurement can be done and you have a correct reading, then this thread will give you the perfect roast recipe:

    Is how I operated with good results a similar basket inside a halogen turbo oven.
    Skilletlicker, and Renatoa, see these two links --

    The FrankenBehmor - http://www.roaste...nkenBehmor
    And Tabacaru's Behmor - https://www.youtu...Vcp_w0cAm4

    Renatoa, I see you frequently talking about using ET. Could you elaborate on what ET is to you, in example roasters? What would guide your selection of a location for a temp probe?
    Edited by mtbizzle on 05/06/2020 7:13 PM
    Roast: Kaldi wide, SR800 + projects
    Grind: Lab sweet, Bentwood, giota w/ MP burrs, Commandante
    Pull: Decent, La Pavoni, Elektra Microcasa a Leva, Faemina anno 60, Kim Express
    The first link above is about a probe immersed in beans, so not about ET.

    ET for me is environment temperature, i.e the hot air that perform the real roast.
    Not E from (E)xhaust, as in drum machines or Gene roaster.

    In the second case he is trying to measure something... but placing the probe so close to halogen lamps, and above them, don't make the results so realistic, imo... the beans are inside mesh drum, so there you should measure.
    I would probably place the probe somewhere opposite the drum, out of direct infrared reach, after multiple tests to find a spot where the temperature is closer to what's inside the mesh drum.

    I fully believe that roasting is a hot air process in all machines, except those using true Far Infrared. For me there is no conduction roasting.
    Please note that Behmore use a significant amount of IR heating, so is not a pure convection (ET) based roast.

    The basics of this theory are summarised better that I can't explain, in the thread "Well tempered roaster", by a Jim Schulman quote, that I encourage you to read and discuss in that thread later, if still things unclear.

    Also, additional to the above you can read this post:
    ... to better understand why BT is mainly a function of surrounding hot air temperature (ET).

    For all these reasons, when you have a machine where accurate enough BT measurement is not possible, as Behmor, or Gene, or ... poppers Grin, then is better to give up that chimera, I mean trying to measure a false BT, and start understand and love roasting based on ET instead.
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