Husamka wrote:

I am thinking to buy ( 4" BOROSILICATE TRI CLAMP SIGHT GLASS WITH GASKETS AND TRI CLAMPS) its same like yours plus (two Hinge Tri Clamps and two Silicone Gaskets). do you recommend that or there is a reason that you ordered only the Tri Clamp sight glass without the clamps ?

https://shop.distillery-equipment.com/products/3-protected-borosilicate-tri-clamp-sight-glass-with-gaskets-and-tri-clamps-1?_pos=1&_sid=e3bad1f67&_ss=r

CharcoalRoaster wrote:

Nice roast

How do you dump beans? Do you have to completely disassemble?

renatoa wrote:

My quick (and dirty ) solution was to use a hot cup silicone sleeve, as a seal fitting directly into the jar mouth.

CK wrote:

Here's a new one I've designed that is similar to Jared's. This is not high temp PLA yet, but rather a proof of concept that works well. It has a custom high temp gasket that makes the system airtight.

That 3D printing not only solves functional issues, it solves them in form as well.

CK wrote:



Tip:

I added the red extension piece (a performance improvement) because I?ve found if the bottom of the chaff container is too close to the bottom of the metal cyclone, too many chaff fragments escape the exhaust.

renatoa wrote:

More than accurate temp, rather focus on differentials / jumps, they tell you FC start better than sound.
Check attached pic, in this roast, because I am partially hearing-impaired, my ears hear the first sounds at 204 C, but that jump at 200 tell me a lot better that endothermic reaction started. i.e. first crack

renatoa wrote:

More than accurate temp, rather focus on differentials / jumps, they tell you FC start better than sound.
Check attached pic, in this roast, because I am partially hearing-impaired, my ears hear the first sounds at 204 C, but that jump at 200 tell me a lot better that endothermic reaction started. i.e. first crack

pisanoal wrote:

Good advice. One possible drawback to this is not all roasters/beans have a distinct "flick" at the start of FC. There also isn't a distinct change at 2C that i am aware of? Generally speaking, i get a slight leveling off and sometimes an actual flick right before FC, then towards the end, my ROR will start to try to go back up. I'm not as familiar with start of 2C as i don't roast that far generally.

Another possibility that i had to do with a sealed roaster i built was open the top up for the first roast of a new type of bean (or after making changes that affect your BT reading) so i could hear the cracks better and log where FC and 2C happens for that bean. Just let the chaff blow everywhere for that roast. It should be within a couple degrees each time. Then as you approach those temps on later roasts with that bean, you can listen more intently for the cracks, and look for the clues renatoa was speaking of.

jbrux4 wrote:

I am trying to see the jump, but all I see is a gradual increase. I do not understand how you are seeing FC with that gradual of an increase. I do understand the point you are making though. I need to understand this, so perhaps provide additional points to consider with your example...

jbrux4 wrote:

I am trying to see the jump, but all I see is a gradual increase. I do not understand how you are seeing FC with that gradual of an increase. I do understand the point you are making though. I need to understand this, so perhaps provide additional points to consider with your example...

CK wrote:

I don't see any jump/flick on my roasts either. I believe it's is because of the roaster type we use... spouting fluid bed... there is too much airflow exiting the roaster, combined with a relatively small batch size (275g). It seems to me the temperature can't rise drastically because it is always being exchanged with new ET controlled air. Perhaps this jump is only a phenomenon of different types of roasters?

jbrux4 wrote:
This makes the need for accurate temps more of a necessity. However, the cost and work in trying to do so just isn't in my cards right now. My next action will be to split the heat pipe into two separate pieces with each piece having its own element. I will also think about a bean dump or charge of some sort.

jooi123 wrote:



I've currently got a setup using two separate elements as well and was wondering how you were planning on connecting the two elements together using triclamp pipes. Had a look at this and thought it might work out well.

https://www.aliex...web201603_