greencardigan wrote:

Yes CONFIG_PWM is correct.

Yes, the HTR_CUTOFF_FAN_VAL should work in all modes.

The value you choose for HTR_CUTOFF_FAN_VAL will be dependent on your specific roaster. You should have it set to a fan value that will allow enough airflow through your heater to stop it overheating. I have mine set about 10% lower than the lowest fan value I need during a roast.

I recommend doing some initial testing without the greater connected so you can confirm everything is working correctly.

renatoa wrote:

Mains ground.
Surely not to electronics ground !

renatoa wrote:

I thought you mean the sheath of the element, it definitely needs to be grounded.
There could be a lot of (conductive) things that could enter in the element and short the wire to the tin wall around ceramics... a carbonised bean fragment being the most common scenario.

renatoa wrote:

Now that I see the real thing, and not a CAD, and using the same cyclone, I am wondering where will come the chaff collecting jar, and how you discard it...
I see electronics just under cyclone, definitely is not enough space there to handle a jar.
Also, are you aware that the cyclone and the jar connection must be sealed? without vacuum the cyclone doesn't do its separation job ...

cdrake39 wrote:

The reason I'm posting is due to the other picture - I (stupidly) cracked the tab off my heating element.

renatoa wrote:

My way would be to place the chaff collecting jar in the location of the actual cyclone, elevate the cyclone above the platform where is mounted atm, using three threaded rods, as those used to for glass flanges, and shorten the vertical tube of exhaust pipe.
Or, to save even more the exhaust path, raise the cyclone to align its input pipe with the RC exhaust pipe, at same level. In such scenario there will be enough space for the jar to sit on the actual cyclone mounting platform. I can measure my cyclone/jar assembly and post a picture, to have a clue.

jbrux4 wrote:



Unless you have a functional reason to keep the "tab" on, just forget about it. I had accidentally broke one of the tabs on mine, but I actually used it to my advantage in shortening the element height in the heat pipe - I had 2 elements in line so the shorter length allowed more gaps between elements as well as to allow enough room for the high heat electrical wire to bend up and out from the terminals.

Initially, I had sanded those points on the tab down with my sander to avoid to tight of a wedge factor when inserting into my heat pipe.

The element wire is rigid enough, I think, to not have the ceramic there in that one corner. That corner is there to complete the support structure, but you have 95% of the rest of the element supported.

In the end, it is how confident you feel the element will hold up.

I'm already way over budget on this build - so what's another $40

Vitreous wrote:

Have you fired this thing up yet? I'd love to see a video of it floating some beans if you get a chance. Also, do you have a link to the sight glass you used?

Thanks,

Vit