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11/26/2020 6:37 AM
Everyone have a super Thanksgiving and may all your roasts turn out stellar woohoo

11/25/2020 4:20 PM
Howdy 1st CH and welcome to HR forum! Be sure to read in the forums to see if anything covers the topic and please post away in drum roaster forums Welcome

11/25/2020 3:35 PM
Hey everyone! I am new to the home roasters forum. Mainly here to read and learn! I’d also love to get advice about modifying my roaster (a Huky 500)

11/10/2020 5:29 PM
Welcome MJ, post away! Cheers

11/08/2020 6:05 PM
Hello All, New here, started with an air popper, now using fresh roast 800. I'm here to learn and connect with others Thank you

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Fluidbed Roaster project
cdrake39

Quote

greencardigan wrote:

Yes CONFIG_PWM is correct.

Yes, the HTR_CUTOFF_FAN_VAL should work in all modes.

The value you choose for HTR_CUTOFF_FAN_VAL will be dependent on your specific roaster. You should have it set to a fan value that will allow enough airflow through your heater to stop it overheating. I have mine set about 10% lower than the lowest fan value I need during a roast.

I recommend doing some initial testing without the greater connected so you can confirm everything is working correctly.


Thanks for the response! I plan on doing a preliminary test without the heater. I was thinking about using something else (maybe a lightbulb or similar) in it's place - just to test whether or not it turns on/off when it is supposed to. Do you see any issues with this test? I would connect the lightbulb the same way I would the heater (through the SSR)
greencardigan
That would be fine. Just note that in CONFIG_PWM mode the heater is pulsed on and off at 1hz by default, so you'll see that.
cdrake39
Decided to use a different heating element (HAS043K) for my roaster build. But one question I have is where to connect the ground wire? There are only two terminals on the element (for live and neutral) I've been basing my wiring on this instructable (https://www.instructables.com/id/Ardu...e-Roaster/) and as such have added to one of the schematics to better illustrate my question. Would connecting the ground wire to a lug welded to the stainless steel tube be sufficient? Or does the ground wire have to be physically connected to the heating element somehow?
Note, there is a mica insulation layer between the ID of the tube and the OD of the element.
cdrake39 attached the following image:
groundwiring.jpg
renatoa
Mains ground.
Surely not to electronics ground !
cdrake39

Quote

renatoa wrote:

Mains ground.
Surely not to electronics ground !


Not sure I understand your comment. I assume you mean the ground wire would intuitively be connected to the ground connection on the element, but since there is no ground terminal on the element, where should it be connected?
Apologies if this is a stupid question, but I'm not an electrician so i want to make sure everything is wired properly.
renatoa
I thought you mean the sheath of the element, it definitely needs to be grounded.
There could be a lot of (conductive) things that could enter in the element and short the wire to the tin wall around ceramics... a carbonised bean fragment being the most common scenario.
cdrake39

Quote

renatoa wrote:

I thought you mean the sheath of the element, it definitely needs to be grounded.
There could be a lot of (conductive) things that could enter in the element and short the wire to the tin wall around ceramics... a carbonised bean fragment being the most common scenario.


My mistake, I should have been clearer in what I was asking. Again, this is not my area of expertise so I greatly appreciate the assistance!
Based on your above comment:
1) A grounding lug affixed to the outside of the stainless steel tube, with a ground wire going back to the AC ground wire should do the trick? I attached a revised picture to explain

Also, ignore the 'popcorn heating element' label in the picture - that part of the photo was adapted from the instructable. I will be using a stand alone element (HAS043K)
cdrake39 attached the following image:
gndwire.jpg
renatoa
Yes, this is what I meant too.
Mica will help a lot against shorts between wire and SS tube, but... crack happens Grin
cdrake39
So, the fluid bed roaster build continues (albeit very slowly due to part delays). See picture below for the current status (lots of work left yet). The reason I'm posting is due to the other picture - I (stupidly) cracked the tab off my heating element. My question to you fine folks is - is there a suitable high temp ceramic adhesive I could use to repair this? Or should I just spend the $40CAD and get a new element?
cdrake39 attached the following images:
roasterbuild_0330.jpg crackedheatingelement.jpg
renatoa
Now that I see the real thing, and not a CAD, and using the same cyclone, I am wondering where will come the chaff collecting jar, and how you discard it...
I see electronics just under cyclone, definitely is not enough space there to handle a jar.
Also, are you aware that the cyclone and the jar connection must be sealed? without vacuum the cyclone doesn't do its separation job ...
cdrake39

Quote

renatoa wrote:

Now that I see the real thing, and not a CAD, and using the same cyclone, I am wondering where will come the chaff collecting jar, and how you discard it...
I see electronics just under cyclone, definitely is not enough space there to handle a jar.
Also, are you aware that the cyclone and the jar connection must be sealed? without vacuum the cyclone doesn't do its separation job ...


Thanks for the feedback. Yes, it is a little short on space under the enclosure. The blower motor can be rotated to the other side if necessary to free up more space - but it might still be a little tight. The plan is to weld a jar lid (with a hole in it) to the bottom of the cyclone to screw on a jar. The mesh bag will not be used in the actual design.
renatoa
My way would be to place the chaff collecting jar in the location of the actual cyclone, elevate the cyclone above the platform where is mounted atm, using three threaded rods, as those used to for glass flanges, and shorten the vertical tube of exhaust pipe.
Or, to save even more the exhaust path, raise the cyclone to align its input pipe with the RC exhaust pipe, at same level. In such scenario there will be enough space for the jar to sit on the actual cyclone mounting platform. I can measure my cyclone/jar assembly and post a picture, to have a clue.
jbrux4

Quote

cdrake39 wrote:

The reason I'm posting is due to the other picture - I (stupidly) cracked the tab off my heating element.


Unless you have a functional reason to keep the "tab" on, just forget about it. I had accidentally broke one of the tabs on mine, but I actually used it to my advantage in shortening the element height in the heat pipe - I had 2 elements in line so the shorter length allowed more gaps between elements as well as to allow enough room for the high heat electrical wire to bend up and out from the terminals.

Initially, I had sanded those points on the tab down with my sander to avoid to tight of a wedge factor when inserting into my heat pipe.

The element wire is rigid enough, I think, to not have the ceramic there in that one corner. That corner is there to complete the support structure, but you have 95% of the rest of the element supported.

In the end, it is how confident you feel the element will hold up.
R/
Jared
cdrake39

Quote

renatoa wrote:

My way would be to place the chaff collecting jar in the location of the actual cyclone, elevate the cyclone above the platform where is mounted atm, using three threaded rods, as those used to for glass flanges, and shorten the vertical tube of exhaust pipe.
Or, to save even more the exhaust path, raise the cyclone to align its input pipe with the RC exhaust pipe, at same level. In such scenario there will be enough space for the jar to sit on the actual cyclone mounting platform. I can measure my cyclone/jar assembly and post a picture, to have a clue.


Good idea - I actually planned on putting threaded rods to elevate the cyclone slightly (in the CAD render you can see it's about an inch off the top of the enclosure) but I'm not opposed to raising it even higher as you suggested. Thanks for the tips!
cdrake39

Quote

jbrux4 wrote:

Quote

cdrake39 wrote:

The reason I'm posting is due to the other picture - I (stupidly) cracked the tab off my heating element.


Unless you have a functional reason to keep the "tab" on, just forget about it. I had accidentally broke one of the tabs on mine, but I actually used it to my advantage in shortening the element height in the heat pipe - I had 2 elements in line so the shorter length allowed more gaps between elements as well as to allow enough room for the high heat electrical wire to bend up and out from the terminals.

Initially, I had sanded those points on the tab down with my sander to avoid to tight of a wedge factor when inserting into my heat pipe.

The element wire is rigid enough, I think, to not have the ceramic there in that one corner. That corner is there to complete the support structure, but you have 95% of the rest of the element supported.

In the end, it is how confident you feel the element will hold up.


Well, I went ahead and ordered a replacement last night. I'm already way over budget on this build - so what's another $40 :P
But if I burn out this new element, sounds like I may still be able to use this broken one as a backup. Appreciate the feedback!
jbrux4

Quote

I'm already way over budget on this build - so what's another $40


Sounds oh so eerily familiar Shock
R/
Jared
Vitreous
Have you fired this thing up yet? I'd love to see a video of it floating some beans if you get a chance. Also, do you have a link to the sight glass you used?

Thanks,

Vit
cdrake39

Quote

Vitreous wrote:

Have you fired this thing up yet? I'd love to see a video of it floating some beans if you get a chance. Also, do you have a link to the sight glass you used?

Thanks,

Vit


I'll be sure to post a video once it's completely assembled and running. Here's a link to the sight glass I used
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32874...4c4daYVgxp
cdrake39
So I managed to get the fan up and running with Artisan today, but I'm having a issue with airflow. Some of the beans get blown into the chaff collection jar, and they aren't lofting as well as I had hoped. Is this an issue with static pressure, or airflow? Are they any mods I can make (apart from using a different blower) to improve lofting, but reduce the amount of stray beans that get blown into the cyclone collector?

Edit - Well, looks like I may have found a solution from a previous build blog. Here it is for anyone interested:http://www.sinobi.dk/henrik/coffeeroa...eroaster1/ he adds a washer to restrict the flow, but increase pressure.
Henrik used the same blower motor as I did, so I will test this and report back.
Edited by cdrake39 on 04/19/2020 3:57 PM
JackH
He did a nice job documenting that project!
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
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