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Fluidbed Roaster project
cdrake39

Quote

renatoa wrote:

Now that I see the real thing, and not a CAD, and using the same cyclone, I am wondering where will come the chaff collecting jar, and how you discard it...
I see electronics just under cyclone, definitely is not enough space there to handle a jar.
Also, are you aware that the cyclone and the jar connection must be sealed? without vacuum the cyclone doesn't do its separation job ...


Thanks for the feedback. Yes, it is a little short on space under the enclosure. The blower motor can be rotated to the other side if necessary to free up more space - but it might still be a little tight. The plan is to weld a jar lid (with a hole in it) to the bottom of the cyclone to screw on a jar. The mesh bag will not be used in the actual design.
 
renatoa
My way would be to place the chaff collecting jar in the location of the actual cyclone, elevate the cyclone above the platform where is mounted atm, using three threaded rods, as those used to for glass flanges, and shorten the vertical tube of exhaust pipe.
Or, to save even more the exhaust path, raise the cyclone to align its input pipe with the RC exhaust pipe, at same level. In such scenario there will be enough space for the jar to sit on the actual cyclone mounting platform. I can measure my cyclone/jar assembly and post a picture, to have a clue.
 
jbrux4

Quote

cdrake39 wrote:

The reason I'm posting is due to the other picture - I (stupidly) cracked the tab off my heating element.


Unless you have a functional reason to keep the "tab" on, just forget about it. I had accidentally broke one of the tabs on mine, but I actually used it to my advantage in shortening the element height in the heat pipe - I had 2 elements in line so the shorter length allowed more gaps between elements as well as to allow enough room for the high heat electrical wire to bend up and out from the terminals.

Initially, I had sanded those points on the tab down with my sander to avoid to tight of a wedge factor when inserting into my heat pipe.

The element wire is rigid enough, I think, to not have the ceramic there in that one corner. That corner is there to complete the support structure, but you have 95% of the rest of the element supported.

In the end, it is how confident you feel the element will hold up.
R/
Jared
 
cdrake39

Quote

renatoa wrote:

My way would be to place the chaff collecting jar in the location of the actual cyclone, elevate the cyclone above the platform where is mounted atm, using three threaded rods, as those used to for glass flanges, and shorten the vertical tube of exhaust pipe.
Or, to save even more the exhaust path, raise the cyclone to align its input pipe with the RC exhaust pipe, at same level. In such scenario there will be enough space for the jar to sit on the actual cyclone mounting platform. I can measure my cyclone/jar assembly and post a picture, to have a clue.


Good idea - I actually planned on putting threaded rods to elevate the cyclone slightly (in the CAD render you can see it's about an inch off the top of the enclosure) but I'm not opposed to raising it even higher as you suggested. Thanks for the tips!
 
cdrake39

Quote

jbrux4 wrote:

Quote

cdrake39 wrote:

The reason I'm posting is due to the other picture - I (stupidly) cracked the tab off my heating element.


Unless you have a functional reason to keep the "tab" on, just forget about it. I had accidentally broke one of the tabs on mine, but I actually used it to my advantage in shortening the element height in the heat pipe - I had 2 elements in line so the shorter length allowed more gaps between elements as well as to allow enough room for the high heat electrical wire to bend up and out from the terminals.

Initially, I had sanded those points on the tab down with my sander to avoid to tight of a wedge factor when inserting into my heat pipe.

The element wire is rigid enough, I think, to not have the ceramic there in that one corner. That corner is there to complete the support structure, but you have 95% of the rest of the element supported.

In the end, it is how confident you feel the element will hold up.


Well, I went ahead and ordered a replacement last night. I'm already way over budget on this build - so what's another $40 :P
But if I burn out this new element, sounds like I may still be able to use this broken one as a backup. Appreciate the feedback!
 
jbrux4

Quote

I'm already way over budget on this build - so what's another $40


Sounds oh so eerily familiar Shock
R/
Jared
 
Vitreous
Have you fired this thing up yet? I'd love to see a video of it floating some beans if you get a chance. Also, do you have a link to the sight glass you used?

Thanks,

Vit
 
cdrake39

Quote

Vitreous wrote:

Have you fired this thing up yet? I'd love to see a video of it floating some beans if you get a chance. Also, do you have a link to the sight glass you used?

Thanks,

Vit


I'll be sure to post a video once it's completely assembled and running. Here's a link to the sight glass I used
https://www.aliex...4c4daYVgxp
 
cdrake39
So I managed to get the fan up and running with Artisan today, but I'm having a issue with airflow. Some of the beans get blown into the chaff collection jar, and they aren't lofting as well as I had hoped. Is this an issue with static pressure, or airflow? Are they any mods I can make (apart from using a different blower) to improve lofting, but reduce the amount of stray beans that get blown into the cyclone collector?

Edit - Well, looks like I may have found a solution from a previous build blog. Here it is for anyone interested:http://www.sinobi...eroaster1/ he adds a washer to restrict the flow, but increase pressure.
Henrik used the same blower motor as I did, so I will test this and report back.
Edited by cdrake39 on 04/19/2020 3:57 PM
 
JackH
He did a nice job documenting that project!
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
 
cdrake39

Quote

JackH wrote:

He did a nice job documenting that project!


I agree! Not sure if he is a member on this forum or not - but I'll mention it to him
 
cdrake39
So I'm beginning to wonder if my issue with 'spouting' of the beans is more so related to the shape of my reducer? The steep vertical edges and nearly flat bottom may not be conducive to lofting the beans. I could order a conical reducer (like many others have used), or maybe tack weld an appropriately sized funnel inside the bowl reducer. I guess before I go down that road, do you folks think it may provide a significant improvement?
cdrake39 attached the following image:
bowl_reducer_rev.jpg
 
Vitreous
Maybe post a video so we can see what its doing?
 
cdrake39

Quote

Vitreous wrote:

Maybe post a video so we can see what its doing?


Just posted a short video on YT. The spouting seems minimal which is my main concern. The fan power should be sufficient as it was used in another build (referenced a couple posts back) and capable of spouting 250g. So I assume the issue lies with the airflow in my particular setup? Maybe caused by a combination of things (heating element blocking adequate airflow, bowl reducer geometry not "funneling" beans to center, or air flow too high and static pressure not sufficient). Appreciate any feedback you may have!



https://www.youtu...JOSbQFh4zE
Edited by JackH on 04/28/2020 4:23 AM
 
CharcoalRoaster
Maybe not enough bean mass to get 100% circulation of the spouting bed?
 
cdrake39

Quote

CharcoalRoaster wrote:

Maybe not enough bean mass to get 100% circulation of the spouting bed?


Not enough? Or too much? I can try 250g this evening to see how it looks!
 
CharcoalRoaster
I was thinking not enough because there's not enough weight of the mass to replace the beans being fluidized. Then again, I'm not scientist or engineer just a serial DIYer lol
 
CK
I'm pretty sure you'll have to get a conical reducer as jbrux4 uses. Without that type of reducer, there will likely be dead spots not circulating the beans on the bottom edges/corners of your roast chamber.
 
cdrake39

Quote

CK wrote:

I'm pretty sure you'll have to get a conical reducer as jbrux4 uses. Without that type of reducer, there will likely be dead spots not circulating the beans on the bottom edges/corners of your roast chamber.


Yeah, I was thinking that may be an issue. My plan is to 3D print a conical reducer to test that theory (without the heating element wired in of course). If it proves successful, I'll either opt for the tri clamp style reducer, or weld a stainless steel funnel inside the bowl reducer to achieve the same effect. Thanks for the advice!
 
cdrake39
I 3D printed a conical reducer to test whether or not that would improve the agitation of beans. Seems like a minimal improvement, but it's difficult to tell. See video link below:



The specs of my blower are 7kPa (20"H2O) static pressure and about 28 CFM airflow. Perhaps this just isn't sufficient? Or maybe I'm overthinking it and expecting too much agitation lol
 
pisanoal
I think it looks like there are less dead spots in the video with the conical insert.

I'd say that is probably sufficient for the beginning of the roast. It should get a lot better as the roast progresses.
 
Husamka
I need your advice, which of these attached RCs design is better for beans circulation for 500-700gr capacity?
Husamka attached the following images:
61-wxind2l_ac_sl1500_.jpg 61b3pfcoqcl_ac_sx679_.jpg
 
CharcoalRoaster
The one on the left (first). The bowl shape might have dead spots when it drops into that little section on the other one.
 
Husamka
CharcoalRoaster, Thank you. I was thinking the right one has more capacity but still smooth circulation is more important.
Edited by Husamka on 05/07/2020 12:20 AM
 
cdrake39
Well, I'm finally back to working on the roaster and almost ready to fire it up. Before I do so, I have a few question regarding wiring that I would like to run by you folks first (not an electrician, so I have a cautious fear of DIY wiring). If anything in the wiring photo stands out as an issue, please let me know. Just bought a new house and would prefer not to start any fires :p All connections will be covered with heat shrink when finalized
For context:
12VDC Blower motor is controlled with the driver, with an approx power rating of 200W
Arduino will be powered via USB from laptop
Heating element is 1740W @ 120V (14.5A)
All wiring is 12 AWG
Heating element tube has a layer of mica, and the thermal fuse is wired in series with the hot wire
The 3 white dots are where the main AC power cord connects
The GND wires connected with the screw will be bolted to the enclosure
The stray wires coming off the DC driver won't be needed for TC4+ control
Should I wire an inline fuse? Or an on/off rocker switch?
cdrake39 attached the following image:
20200924_113432_resized.jpg

Edited by cdrake39 on 09/24/2020 12:44 PM
 
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