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11/26/2020 6:37 AM
Everyone have a super Thanksgiving and may all your roasts turn out stellar woohoo

11/25/2020 4:20 PM
Howdy 1st CH and welcome to HR forum! Be sure to read in the forums to see if anything covers the topic and please post away in drum roaster forums Welcome

11/25/2020 3:35 PM
Hey everyone! I am new to the home roasters forum. Mainly here to read and learn! I’d also love to get advice about modifying my roaster (a Huky 500)

11/10/2020 5:29 PM
Welcome MJ, post away! Cheers

11/08/2020 6:05 PM
Hello All, New here, started with an air popper, now using fresh roast 800. I'm here to learn and connect with others Thank you

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Tri-Clamp Roaster
jooi123
any ideas about the best way to get two elements in your build?
jessep

Quote

jooi123 wrote:

any ideas about the best way to get two elements in your build?


Just run them in series in a longer 1.5" pipe.. Someone here did that...
jessep
I also installed a better speed control this weekend.

https://www.tindie.com/products/bugrovs2012/pwm-2a-ac-light-dimmer-module-50hz-60hz-120v-240v/

You can use the TC4 in PWM mode and it has an integrated ZCD for phase angle contorl.

Worked a charm once I got the wiring and my broken Arduino sorted. It didn't work the first time I tried to use it, but I think it was actually my Arduino that was having issues as I replaced that a while ago and now it worked great.. Fortunately that's one of the cheapest and easiest to get parts of the whole roaster!

i.ibb.co/GxJ7mGt/IMG-20200418-112513.jpg

Also made a nice new case:

i.ibb.co/HVhTzzF/IMG-20200419-181214.jpg
i.ibb.co/hWcSqnN/IMG-20200419-130503.jpg
i.ibb.co/r5jjZVd/IMG-20200419-182224.jpg
jooi123

Quote

jessep wrote:

Quote

jooi123 wrote:

any ideas about the best way to get two elements in your build?


Just run them in series in a longer 1.5" pipe.. Someone here did that...


Yup i don't know why that didn't cross my mind
jbrux4

Quote

jooi123 wrote:

Quote

jessep wrote:

Quote

jooi123 wrote:

any ideas about the best way to get two elements in your build?


Just run them in series in a longer 1.5" pipe.. Someone here did that...


Yup i don't know why that didn't cross my mind


I did my build with two elements in line in a 12" x 1.5" pipe. What I have learned through trial and error with my configuration is that it should be two 6" separate lengths of pipe separated by a gasket/clamp. This is because my power lines egress the pipe through holes. It is hard to deal with maintenance/repair with the one pipe. It would be easier to have each element in its own pipe. heck, this way, I can add a 3rd and 4th element in line - haha.
jbrux4 attached the following images:
medusa-post_1.jpg element_bottom_view-post_1.jpg element_wiring-post_1.jpg element_top_view-post_1.jpg

R/
Jared
jooi123
Thanks fellas, i did have a look at your build jbrux4 and have gone with two 6" pipes :) cant wait for the parts to arrive, i got my roast chamber real fast and the rest are taking their sweeet time
jessep

Quote

jooi123 wrote:

Thanks fellas, i did have a look at your build jbrux4 and have gone with two 6" pipes :) cant wait for the parts to arrive, i got my roast chamber real fast and the rest are taking their sweeet time


Nice! I'm.definitely on the limit power wise right now for more than 200 grams. I think everything else has plenty if headroom for much bigger batches.

I hope all the shipping goes smoothly!
tofublock

Quote

jessep wrote:
Nice! I'm.definitely on the limit power wise right now for more than 200 grams. I think everything else has plenty if headroom for much bigger batches.

I hope all the shipping goes smoothly!


How much headroom would you say you have with the blower? What's the max batch size you think it could handle while also being able to eject the beans at the end of the roast?
jessep
I'd guess around 400-500g?

I could test sometime, if I ever have that much roasted coffee. :)
jessep
Made some new parts. Replaced my mostly functional, super saggy chaff collector adapter with a 3d printed fitting, and made a new jar mount.

i.ibb.co/FzY2qwq/IMG-20200502-094126.jpg

I'm using a material called Greentech Pro from Extrudr, a company in Austria. It gets a little soft at ~100C, but then doesn't get any softer until about 160C. We'll see how it goes!
tofublock

Quote

jessep wrote:

Made some new parts. Replaced my mostly functional, super saggy chaff collector adapter with a 3d printed fitting, and made a new jar mount.

I'm using a material called Greentech Pro from Extrudr, a company in Austria. It gets a little soft at ~100C, but then doesn't get any softer until about 160C. We'll see how it goes!


Not sure I'd trust filament-printed parts around ~200°C (that's not far under the printing temp), but let us know how it goes! It looks pretty nice for sure.

I still haven't received any of my parts, so nothing new to report, sadly.
renatoa
To address this heat issue, I am planning to use this great concept, but redesign this piece for my own cyclone, as a flat part, as is the lower flange, to fit the jar cover. And nothing else, will remove the raiser parts used for mounting on the cyclone.
Instead, will mount this flange to the upper cyclone ears by three threaded rods, as those in the right side of the picture.
In the cyclone exit area the temperature is lower than 60 C degrees, for my skin it pass the touch test, so filament will be happy too.
The threaded rods will not bring that much heat from above, I guess.
Edited by renatoa on 05/05/2020 10:02 AM
jessep
Update.. I replaced the 1500W Element with a 3500W plastic welder element. Well it said 3300W, but I measured 15.3ohm which I think is closer to 3500.. But my 10a breaker never blew, so I have no idea what it's really drawing...

Old element, notice how high the heater is.. basically maxed out towards the end.. This is about 250G beans
i.ibb.co/kXGCfy1/old-element.png

New Element, notice the heater is generally below 50% the whole run, but now the fan is almost maxed out trying to loft the slightly larger charge of around 300g. One advantage is that with a slightly higher air speed, I think I can negate the FC flick a bit better..

i.ibb.co/gm5Jgrb/new-element.png

Someone was asking about TC placement before, this is what I have.. I'd say it's pretty accurate, if a bit low. FC is generally around 208C, but quite consistent at least.

i.ibb.co/j9NX9Kr/PXL-20201005-184345155.jpg

Old vs new
i.ibb.co/prQ2TDY/PXL-20201005-180746457.jpg

In the end, I think I'd prefer to have something in between here. Or maybe two elements inline like others have done. There's just too much backpressure here, I can't blast the beans out after a roast anymore, and the whole reason for moar power is moar beans.. I think I might be able to approach 400g with this setup, but not with the kind of agitation I'd like..

Feel free to poke holes in my roast profiles, I don't know what I'm doing. I do know the development time wasn't long enough on the latest one though.. my bad..
jooi123
My parts finally arrived and I've reassembled my roaster. I ended up putting one element in each length of pipe inline. Done 2 roasts so far and all good but on the third roast, one of my elements kept tripping the circuit, not sure if it's because I don't have my elements wrapped in mica wrap inside the pipe (whoops). Any ideas of how I can stop this from happening? Is this a grounding issue.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/kfXwB3RJyPc...JyPcfaVtW8

https://photos.app.goo.gl/65U52cYPvTk...PvTkCTFys5


Thinking of getting a cyclone as well like you and get that hooked up. Currently roasting with a charge of 300g and have accidentally blown some out of the chamber into my chaff collector during cooling due to lack of space to cool when the blower is too high.
Edited by JackH on 10/10/2020 3:44 AM
CharcoalRoaster
Yep, wrap those elements inside the steel tube otherwise if they make contact they'll ground out and potentially get fried and you'll have to replace them.
jooi123
Yeh figured that's where I went wrong, thanks :)
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