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Tri-Clamp Roaster
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Ooij01 |
Posted on 04/19/2020 7:24 AM
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![]() Newbie ![]() Posts: 21 Joined: June 25, 2018 |
any ideas about the best way to get two elements in your build? |
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jessep |
Posted on 04/19/2020 2:08 PM
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![]() Newbie ![]() Posts: 33 Joined: January 05, 2019 |
Quote Just run them in series in a longer 1.5" pipe.. Someone here did that... |
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jessep |
Posted on 04/19/2020 2:18 PM
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![]() Newbie ![]() Posts: 33 Joined: January 05, 2019 |
I also installed a better speed control this weekend. https://www.tindie.com/products/bugrovs2012/pwm-2a-ac-light-dimmer-module-50hz-60hz-120v-240v/ You can use the TC4 in PWM mode and it has an integrated ZCD for phase angle contorl. Worked a charm once I got the wiring and my broken Arduino sorted. It didn't work the first time I tried to use it, but I think it was actually my Arduino that was having issues as I replaced that a while ago and now it worked great.. Fortunately that's one of the cheapest and easiest to get parts of the whole roaster! ![]() Also made a nice new case: ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Ooij01 |
Posted on 04/20/2020 4:46 AM
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![]() Newbie ![]() Posts: 21 Joined: June 25, 2018 |
Quote Yup i don't know why that didn't cross my mind |
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jbrux4 |
Posted on 04/20/2020 7:59 PM
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![]() 1/4 Pounder ![]() Posts: 139 Joined: October 26, 2019 |
Quote jooi123 wrote: Quote Yup i don't know why that didn't cross my mind I did my build with two elements in line in a 12" x 1.5" pipe. What I have learned through trial and error with my configuration is that it should be two 6" separate lengths of pipe separated by a gasket/clamp. This is because my power lines egress the pipe through holes. It is hard to deal with maintenance/repair with the one pipe. It would be easier to have each element in its own pipe. heck, this way, I can add a 3rd and 4th element in line - haha.
jbrux4 attached the following images:
R/
Jared |
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Ooij01 |
Posted on 04/21/2020 5:56 AM
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![]() Newbie ![]() Posts: 21 Joined: June 25, 2018 |
Thanks fellas, i did have a look at your build jbrux4 and have gone with two 6" pipes :) cant wait for the parts to arrive, i got my roast chamber real fast and the rest are taking their sweeet time |
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jessep |
Posted on 04/23/2020 12:46 AM
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![]() Newbie ![]() Posts: 33 Joined: January 05, 2019 |
Quote jooi123 wrote: Thanks fellas, i did have a look at your build jbrux4 and have gone with two 6" pipes :) cant wait for the parts to arrive, i got my roast chamber real fast and the rest are taking their sweeet time Nice! I'm.definitely on the limit power wise right now for more than 200 grams. I think everything else has plenty if headroom for much bigger batches. I hope all the shipping goes smoothly! |
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tofublock |
Posted on 04/24/2020 5:02 AM
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![]() Newbie ![]() Posts: 9 Joined: March 31, 2020 |
Quote jessep wrote: Nice! I'm.definitely on the limit power wise right now for more than 200 grams. I think everything else has plenty if headroom for much bigger batches. I hope all the shipping goes smoothly! How much headroom would you say you have with the blower? What's the max batch size you think it could handle while also being able to eject the beans at the end of the roast? |
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jessep |
Posted on 04/25/2020 7:40 AM
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![]() Newbie ![]() Posts: 33 Joined: January 05, 2019 |
I'd guess around 400-500g? I could test sometime, if I ever have that much roasted coffee. :) |
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jessep |
Posted on 05/02/2020 3:31 AM
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![]() Newbie ![]() Posts: 33 Joined: January 05, 2019 |
Made some new parts. Replaced my mostly functional, super saggy chaff collector adapter with a 3d printed fitting, and made a new jar mount. ![]() I'm using a material called Greentech Pro from Extrudr, a company in Austria. It gets a little soft at ~100C, but then doesn't get any softer until about 160C. We'll see how it goes! |
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tofublock |
Posted on 05/05/2020 5:56 AM
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![]() Newbie ![]() Posts: 9 Joined: March 31, 2020 |
Quote jessep wrote: Made some new parts. Replaced my mostly functional, super saggy chaff collector adapter with a 3d printed fitting, and made a new jar mount. I'm using a material called Greentech Pro from Extrudr, a company in Austria. It gets a little soft at ~100C, but then doesn't get any softer until about 160C. We'll see how it goes! Not sure I'd trust filament-printed parts around ~200°C (that's not far under the printing temp), but let us know how it goes! It looks pretty nice for sure. I still haven't received any of my parts, so nothing new to report, sadly. |
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renatoa |
Posted on 05/05/2020 6:38 AM
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![]() Administrator ![]() Posts: 1549 Joined: September 30, 2016 |
To address this heat issue, I am planning to use this great concept, but redesign this piece for my own cyclone, as a flat part, as is the lower flange, to fit the jar cover. And nothing else, will remove the raiser parts used for mounting on the cyclone. Instead, will mount this flange to the upper cyclone ears by three threaded rods, as those in the right side of the picture. In the cyclone exit area the temperature is lower than 60 C degrees, for my skin it pass the touch test, so filament will be happy too. The threaded rods will not bring that much heat from above, I guess. Edited by renatoa on 05/05/2020 10:02 AM |
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jessep |
Posted on 10/05/2020 2:49 PM
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![]() Newbie ![]() Posts: 33 Joined: January 05, 2019 |
Update.. I replaced the 1500W Element with a 3500W plastic welder element. Well it said 3300W, but I measured 15.3ohm which I think is closer to 3500.. But my 10a breaker never blew, so I have no idea what it's really drawing... Old element, notice how high the heater is.. basically maxed out towards the end.. This is about 250G beans ![]() New Element, notice the heater is generally below 50% the whole run, but now the fan is almost maxed out trying to loft the slightly larger charge of around 300g. One advantage is that with a slightly higher air speed, I think I can negate the FC flick a bit better.. ![]() Someone was asking about TC placement before, this is what I have.. I'd say it's pretty accurate, if a bit low. FC is generally around 208C, but quite consistent at least. ![]() Old vs new ![]() In the end, I think I'd prefer to have something in between here. Or maybe two elements inline like others have done. There's just too much backpressure here, I can't blast the beans out after a roast anymore, and the whole reason for moar power is moar beans.. I think I might be able to approach 400g with this setup, but not with the kind of agitation I'd like.. Feel free to poke holes in my roast profiles, I don't know what I'm doing. I do know the development time wasn't long enough on the latest one though.. my bad.. |
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Ooij01 |
Posted on 10/10/2020 2:57 AM
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![]() Newbie ![]() Posts: 21 Joined: June 25, 2018 |
My parts finally arrived and I've reassembled my roaster. I ended up putting one element in each length of pipe inline. Done 2 roasts so far and all good but on the third roast, one of my elements kept tripping the circuit, not sure if it's because I don't have my elements wrapped in mica wrap inside the pipe (whoops). Any ideas of how I can stop this from happening? Is this a grounding issue. https://photos.ap...JyPcfaVtW8 https://photos.ap...PvTkCTFys5 Thinking of getting a cyclone as well like you and get that hooked up. Currently roasting with a charge of 300g and have accidentally blown some out of the chamber into my chaff collector during cooling due to lack of space to cool when the blower is too high. Edited by JackH on 10/10/2020 3:44 AM |
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CharcoalRoaster |
Posted on 10/10/2020 7:53 AM
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![]() Pounder ![]() Posts: 596 Joined: April 13, 2012 |
Yep, wrap those elements inside the steel tube otherwise if they make contact they'll ground out and potentially get fried and you'll have to replace them. |
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Ooij01 |
Posted on 10/10/2020 8:26 AM
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![]() Newbie ![]() Posts: 21 Joined: June 25, 2018 |
Yeh figured that's where I went wrong, thanks :) |
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